Striker Steering Setup
Discussion
I am having understeer problems with my Striker, particularly on hairpins, much of it may be down to my driving, entering too fast etc, but I don't recall it being so bad before I had an excursion across the grass at a recent sprint and wonder if the steering geometry has been altered, it all looks OK to the eye but I would like to get it checked properly.
Can anyone advise what toe in and camber I should try as starting points
?
Ta
CT
Can anyone advise what toe in and camber I should try as starting points
?
Ta
CT
Why not ask Raw who make the car now? www.rawengineering.co.uk
Ring RAW if you want an answer from them quickly, I'm not sure Mel checks his email much unless you've rung him and he's asked you to mail him a piccy or something 
I've had a hunt through the Sylva mailing list and 1.5 degrees negative camber and either no toe or just a touch of toe in is suggested there. No idea if its any good as my car isn't finished yet, Mel said to just set it up as near as I can get to no toe or camber until I can get it done properly when I talked to him.
These sorts of cars are apparently very sensitive to tyre pressure too, perhaps that can give you some adjustment?
I've had a hunt through the Sylva mailing list and 1.5 degrees negative camber and either no toe or just a touch of toe in is suggested there. No idea if its any good as my car isn't finished yet, Mel said to just set it up as near as I can get to no toe or camber until I can get it done properly when I talked to him.
These sorts of cars are apparently very sensitive to tyre pressure too, perhaps that can give you some adjustment?
Cheers dman
That is pretty much what I thought 0-1deg neg on camber around 1/8" toe in, I will get it checked, see what I have, before deciding if it needs adjusting.
I didn't phone Raw as I didn't really want to bother them as it is hardly an urgent matter, and I didn't buy the kit from them, it is a Sylva not a Raw, though I have bought bits from them in the past.
Thanks for the info though it is a good starting point.
CT
That is pretty much what I thought 0-1deg neg on camber around 1/8" toe in, I will get it checked, see what I have, before deciding if it needs adjusting.
I didn't phone Raw as I didn't really want to bother them as it is hardly an urgent matter, and I didn't buy the kit from them, it is a Sylva not a Raw, though I have bought bits from them in the past.
Thanks for the info though it is a good starting point.
CT
My Mk. IV Phoenix/Clubmans uses a different front suspension set up, of course (Chevette uprights and outboard coilovers instead of Escort MK. 2 and rocker arms), but I run a little more negative camber than that (-1 to -1.5 degrees)and about 1/8" toe out.
The toe out tends to make it feel a little less stable in a staight line, but much keener to turn in, I find.
What are you using it for> I set mine up for hillclimbing and sprinting, and weekend road use, though, so those settings might make it a bit too twitchy for some tastes on faster circuits.
The toe out tends to make it feel a little less stable in a staight line, but much keener to turn in, I find.
What are you using it for> I set mine up for hillclimbing and sprinting, and weekend road use, though, so those settings might make it a bit too twitchy for some tastes on faster circuits.
Sam_68 said:
My Mk. IV Phoenix/Clubmans uses a different front suspension set up, of course (Chevette uprights and outboard coilovers instead of Escort MK. 2 and rocker arms), but I run a little more negative camber than that (-1 to -1.5 degrees)and about 1/8" toe out.
The toe out tends to make it feel a little less stable in a staight line, but much keener to turn in, I find.
What are you using it for> I set mine up for hillclimbing and sprinting, and weekend road use, though, so those settings might make it a bit too twitchy for some tastes on faster circuits.
The toe out tends to make it feel a little less stable in a staight line, but much keener to turn in, I find.
What are you using it for> I set mine up for hillclimbing and sprinting, and weekend road use, though, so those settings might make it a bit too twitchy for some tastes on faster circuits.
Escort rack plus toe out = true Akerman?
Just a thought. Not an original one though, I think it came from a book called "tune to win" or "prepare to win" in which the author gives some personal thoughts on steering geometry.
On topic-
Is the car live axle? If so it might be the rear bushes as these effectively use the rear axle as a giant antiroll bar but with the bushes providing the actual movement to permit roll as opposed to the axle. This is a reversal of the usual anti roll bar / bush relationship in which the bar moves a lot and the bushes move a little. A softer rear might cause understeer so if those bushes have worn or perished a little there's a possible answer.
Sam_68 said:
My Mk. IV Phoenix/Clubmans uses a different front suspension set up, of course (Chevette uprights and outboard coilovers instead of Escort MK. 2 and rocker arms), but I run a little more negative camber than that (-1 to -1.5 degrees)and about 1/8" toe out.
The toe out tends to make it feel a little less stable in a staight line, but much keener to turn in, I find.
What are you using it for> I set mine up for hillclimbing and sprinting, and weekend road use, though, so those settings might make it a bit too twitchy for some tastes on faster circuits.
The toe out tends to make it feel a little less stable in a staight line, but much keener to turn in, I find.
What are you using it for> I set mine up for hillclimbing and sprinting, and weekend road use, though, so those settings might make it a bit too twitchy for some tastes on faster circuits.
Sam
It is used mainly for sprints and hillclimbs, i got a reply from Raw recommending 1.5 neg camber and 1/8 toe out, which bears out your info.
Ta
CT
Hi Murray,
here's the set up Kit Car Workshop did on my Fury
KCW set up 16/5/05 Yoko AO 48Rs, 14 by 6"
Springs, they moved front to rear 188, with new fronts 225, 9”
Ride height 3” under sump. 1” rake = higher at rear.
Front camber, 1.5 deg neg.
toe in, 0 deg
This was better but I still get u/steer into corners and o/steer on acceleration. Probably my crap driving and going too fast into corners. Good luck setting it up with Mark, be interesting to see how it goes at Alford
John
here's the set up Kit Car Workshop did on my Fury
KCW set up 16/5/05 Yoko AO 48Rs, 14 by 6"
Springs, they moved front to rear 188, with new fronts 225, 9”
Ride height 3” under sump. 1” rake = higher at rear.
Front camber, 1.5 deg neg.
toe in, 0 deg
This was better but I still get u/steer into corners and o/steer on acceleration. Probably my crap driving and going too fast into corners. Good luck setting it up with Mark, be interesting to see how it goes at Alford
John
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