replacing TVR cerbera starter motor
Discussion
Remove injection rails, air boxes and stuff so that you can get behind the back of the engine. Undo the starter and with a bit of manipulation it will come out between the engine and bulkhead. Disconnect battery beore doing anything though as it is easy to arc weld a spanner to the engine. Not straightforward because of the access. be careful when removing the inction stuff as it is easy to drop spacers into the engine. They are ally so you can't use a magnet to retrieve them.
Alternatively you can drop the gearbox and get to it from underneath.
Alternatively you can drop the gearbox and get to it from underneath.
As shpub says....except BEWARE. The fuel pipe (now disconnected from the fuel rail) gets in the way a little in getting the starter out, so it's tempting to move it out the way (it's in a heat sleeve so you can't see if its flexible or not). Only it's a steel/alloy pipe, and if you bend it out the way you can put a crimp in it that restricts the fuel flow.
So, you bolt everything back togeher and admire your handy work; start up the car and it starts; drive away slow and it drives; press the loud pedal and it cuts out. Eventually, after much whirring of the new starter it runs again, only to stop another 100 yards down the road. Then you have to take everything apart again and fit a new fuel pipe.
Any ideas how I known this?
So, you bolt everything back togeher and admire your handy work; start up the car and it starts; drive away slow and it drives; press the loud pedal and it cuts out. Eventually, after much whirring of the new starter it runs again, only to stop another 100 yards down the road. Then you have to take everything apart again and fit a new fuel pipe.
Any ideas how I known this?
Lots of claims on that website, more torque, less current etc, but do you know anyone who's had one fitted and proven its durability? The point I picked up from the last starters thread we had, was to stick with the original Tilton Super Starter as the Nissan Maxima one is not quite up to it. It died after a few months, where the Tilton could last for years. I think it was griff2be who recommended reconditioning by Eurolec for the Tilton unit. That's the option I'd go for.
Steve.
Steve.
There is also another issue that has come to light, there is a possible cabeling issue causing poor starter performance, basically the cabling to the solenoid is said to have insufficient current carrying capacity (designed for 6A) but the solenoid actually draws 12A. The simptons are poor starter operation(clicking, sticking,spinning) mainly when hot. The fix is to add a relay into the solenoid circuit so it gets 12v directly from the battery instead of 10v from the origginal cabling. Have a look on the cerb forum, there is more info there, im not saying your motor is or isnt faulty but this is a possible reason for continual starter problems
There is also another issue that has come to light, there is a possible cabeling issue causing poor starter performance, basically the cabling to the solenoid is said to have insufficient current carrying capacity (designed for 6A) but the solenoid actually draws 12A. The simptons are poor starter operation(clicking, sticking,spinning) mainly when hot. The fix is to add a relay into the solenoid circuit so it gets 12v directly from the battery instead of 10v from the origginal cabling. Have a look on the cerb forum, there is more info there, im not saying your motor is or isnt faulty but this is a possible reason for continual starter problems
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