Final check list before delivery. help anyone please.
Discussion
Hi
I wrote a few weeks back regarding my impending purchase of a Cerb S6...anyway, long and tedious story short...the finance took too long to organise and it got sold, but lucky for me I got a 4.5L in Swordfish instead.
Now...I have read nearly all the info on this forum, and I THINK I know what I am doing. But just to be super paranoid, I am doing the final pre-delivery check tomorrow and I have a list of things that need fixing in the next 2 weeks. i would appreciate if any of you Cerbie experts could add to what I need to look out for and also give advice on how to fix some of these probs. As the Japanese dealer is not the most experienced with Cerbs, so I will have to guide them in the right direction.
It's a November 2002 model, 4.5L with only 6,000miles on the clock - I am also assuming that a lot of bugs in the earlier cars were sorted by 2002? Myth?
Here goes with the problems so far:
1. FYI: it's been sat in the dealer wharehouse for 1 year as the Japanese are not too keen on TVR's and it has proved difficult to sell. I know this isn't such a good thing with Cerb's not to be driven.
2. Driver's side floor is wet, very wet. They are putting new seals on the door as it is a bit wonky. Will this fix the prob or is the leak coming from somewhere else?
3. How long should a clutch last? I am used to performance cars and manual trans, so that should help with it's durability. I have never had a clutch go before, so how will I know if it is about to die? I am assuming spongy?
4. Rear anti-roll bar - I know they are fragile, how will I know if it is shot?
5. Rear brake pads are being replaced. Disks? Are they durable?
6. Full service is being done, oil, plugs etc.
7. Any common Engine gremlins?
8. Any common Electrical Gremlins?
9. Is the 2002 Air con better than earlier cars? Do I need an upgrade?
10. Are there any online TVR parts websites so I can buy clutches and spare engines direct from UK?
11. Have i missed out on anything to beware of?
I know this is probably a time consuming post to answer and I really appreciate any guidance from anyone who has the time. Thanks.
Very Best
K
I wrote a few weeks back regarding my impending purchase of a Cerb S6...anyway, long and tedious story short...the finance took too long to organise and it got sold, but lucky for me I got a 4.5L in Swordfish instead.
Now...I have read nearly all the info on this forum, and I THINK I know what I am doing. But just to be super paranoid, I am doing the final pre-delivery check tomorrow and I have a list of things that need fixing in the next 2 weeks. i would appreciate if any of you Cerbie experts could add to what I need to look out for and also give advice on how to fix some of these probs. As the Japanese dealer is not the most experienced with Cerbs, so I will have to guide them in the right direction.
It's a November 2002 model, 4.5L with only 6,000miles on the clock - I am also assuming that a lot of bugs in the earlier cars were sorted by 2002? Myth?
Here goes with the problems so far:
1. FYI: it's been sat in the dealer wharehouse for 1 year as the Japanese are not too keen on TVR's and it has proved difficult to sell. I know this isn't such a good thing with Cerb's not to be driven.
2. Driver's side floor is wet, very wet. They are putting new seals on the door as it is a bit wonky. Will this fix the prob or is the leak coming from somewhere else?
3. How long should a clutch last? I am used to performance cars and manual trans, so that should help with it's durability. I have never had a clutch go before, so how will I know if it is about to die? I am assuming spongy?
4. Rear anti-roll bar - I know they are fragile, how will I know if it is shot?
5. Rear brake pads are being replaced. Disks? Are they durable?
6. Full service is being done, oil, plugs etc.
7. Any common Engine gremlins?
8. Any common Electrical Gremlins?
9. Is the 2002 Air con better than earlier cars? Do I need an upgrade?
10. Are there any online TVR parts websites so I can buy clutches and spare engines direct from UK?
11. Have i missed out on anything to beware of?
I know this is probably a time consuming post to answer and I really appreciate any guidance from anyone who has the time. Thanks.
Very Best
K
1. I'd agree, expect to get some problems resulting from leaving the car to stand.
2. The cause is most likely a leak through the front wing. An hour with a silicone gun should cure this.
3. Typical life for a clutch is 25k. Supply is sometimes poor from TVR and despite the AP clutch being rebuildable, you can only buy a complete unit from TVR.
4. Is the rear rollbar fragile? - it's not something that's talked about often on this forum.
5. Not sure - anyone?
6. Good, but make sure you get a check done on chassis condition, particularly around the gearbox area and the outriggers under the driver and passenger doors.
7. The oil pressure relief spring is prone to failure, get this replaced.
8. Headlight control boxes above the petrol tank, plus steering wheel ribbon cable.
9. No idea, but mine's never been that good and I'm not sure how you could improve it.
10. Clutches via UK dealers, TVR Power and possibly the factory.
11.
a) Front brake discs expensive to replace and prone to a build up of pad material. The best way to clear this is currently thought to be a series of aggressive stops where the car is not quite bought to a halt. Try not to hold the car on the foot brake after enthusiatic driving.
b) The handbrake is generally poor, but can be made to work properly. Always leave the car in gear, rather than rely on the handbrake. It is known to release as the brakes cool.
c) 4.5s generally benefit from live mapping on a rolling road, liberating more power from the engine, plus a better drive.
d) Standard suspension suffers with increasing mileage. Mine was very poor at handling weight transfer under braking, a set of Nitron dampers sorted that out.
e) Take it steady while you get used to the car.
f) Always warm the car up carefully. Start the car and drive off soon after, don't leave her idling. To warm up use light throttle and try to keep the revs between 2 and 3k. Watch for oil pressure when the engine is idling to fall to whatever pressure it is normally at when the car is warm (varies), before you use the performance of the car.
There's no doubt more, so over to the rest of you.
Cheers,
Steve.
2. The cause is most likely a leak through the front wing. An hour with a silicone gun should cure this.
3. Typical life for a clutch is 25k. Supply is sometimes poor from TVR and despite the AP clutch being rebuildable, you can only buy a complete unit from TVR.
4. Is the rear rollbar fragile? - it's not something that's talked about often on this forum.
5. Not sure - anyone?
6. Good, but make sure you get a check done on chassis condition, particularly around the gearbox area and the outriggers under the driver and passenger doors.
7. The oil pressure relief spring is prone to failure, get this replaced.
8. Headlight control boxes above the petrol tank, plus steering wheel ribbon cable.
9. No idea, but mine's never been that good and I'm not sure how you could improve it.
10. Clutches via UK dealers, TVR Power and possibly the factory.
11.
a) Front brake discs expensive to replace and prone to a build up of pad material. The best way to clear this is currently thought to be a series of aggressive stops where the car is not quite bought to a halt. Try not to hold the car on the foot brake after enthusiatic driving.
b) The handbrake is generally poor, but can be made to work properly. Always leave the car in gear, rather than rely on the handbrake. It is known to release as the brakes cool.
c) 4.5s generally benefit from live mapping on a rolling road, liberating more power from the engine, plus a better drive.
d) Standard suspension suffers with increasing mileage. Mine was very poor at handling weight transfer under braking, a set of Nitron dampers sorted that out.
e) Take it steady while you get used to the car.
f) Always warm the car up carefully. Start the car and drive off soon after, don't leave her idling. To warm up use light throttle and try to keep the revs between 2 and 3k. Watch for oil pressure when the engine is idling to fall to whatever pressure it is normally at when the car is warm (varies), before you use the performance of the car.
There's no doubt more, so over to the rest of you.
Cheers,
Steve.
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