Cutting Out ..... Help Please !
Discussion
The modified 17mm socket arrived today and I have successfully replaced the n/s lambda sensor. Thanks to Richard for the fault code reader and Phil for trusting me with his 17mm socket (thanks guys) 
OMG what a difference to the running of the car, I can actually drive it at 30 MPH in 3rd, 4th and even 5th without kangarooing !!! Still pulls like a train but without any intermittent misfiring now. The only problem I have now, which I’ve had before, but not quite as bad is that the car keeps cutting out (quiet a lot). Any ideas anyone ??
OMG what a difference to the running of the car, I can actually drive it at 30 MPH in 3rd, 4th and even 5th without kangarooing !!! Still pulls like a train but without any intermittent misfiring now. The only problem I have now, which I’ve had before, but not quite as bad is that the car keeps cutting out (quiet a lot). Any ideas anyone ??
Ntel,
It seems to be when its hot. The problem is when I pull up and take it out of gear i.e let the car idle, it will hunt for revs then sound like it's about to cut out, catch it again to keep it idling then maybe the next time it won't catch it and then it just cuts out. Before changing the lambda sensor I replaced the plugs and leads (Magnecor blue). I also cleaned the stepper and butterfly valve ... Oh and I replaced the cool temp sensor aswell. Do you think that maybe I will need to clean the above again inc. the plugs ?
It seems to be when its hot. The problem is when I pull up and take it out of gear i.e let the car idle, it will hunt for revs then sound like it's about to cut out, catch it again to keep it idling then maybe the next time it won't catch it and then it just cuts out. Before changing the lambda sensor I replaced the plugs and leads (Magnecor blue). I also cleaned the stepper and butterfly valve ... Oh and I replaced the cool temp sensor aswell. Do you think that maybe I will need to clean the above again inc. the plugs ?
Hi Neil,
If you're not getting a misfire code showing with the reader connected on a nice long drive then I'd suspect that you may have a weak spark causing lumpiness at idle with hunting/stalling.
Check all the plug extenders are in good condition or buy some from ACT - I used to change mine every 6 months routinely on my Chimaera.
If you're not getting a misfire code showing with the reader connected on a nice long drive then I'd suspect that you may have a weak spark causing lumpiness at idle with hunting/stalling.
Check all the plug extenders are in good condition or buy some from ACT - I used to change mine every 6 months routinely on my Chimaera.
It's probably worth taking them out on the faulty lambda sensor bank and cleaning them.
These cars need a strong spark in my experience. They run OK with a poor spark but are not happy at low revs without a strong one.
I presume you have a newish coil and all electrical connections are OK?
Bad earth can also mess up ignition particularly the earth straps to the engine.
These cars need a strong spark in my experience. They run OK with a poor spark but are not happy at low revs without a strong one.
I presume you have a newish coil and all electrical connections are OK?
Bad earth can also mess up ignition particularly the earth straps to the engine.
GreenV8,
What is the correct idle speed, mine always seems to be somewhere between 1000 and 1200 ish. Which is why I find it strange that it always wants to cut out.
Richard,
All electrical connections seem to be OK but not sure about the coil as i've only had the car a month, looks like it could be the original though (bit old looking).
How easy is it to clean the dissy cap etc .. reading the bible puts me off a little.
What is the correct idle speed, mine always seems to be somewhere between 1000 and 1200 ish. Which is why I find it strange that it always wants to cut out.
Richard,
All electrical connections seem to be OK but not sure about the coil as i've only had the car a month, looks like it could be the original though (bit old looking).
How easy is it to clean the dissy cap etc .. reading the bible puts me off a little.
Just my tuppence worth...
I had exactly these symptoms, when cold it would be fine, but once warm and approaching junctions or sitting in traffic the rev's would drop, and sometimes stall. I cleaned the main earth on mine (by the rad, presume it's the same on the chim?) which helped, however at the weekend it totally died on me. Turns out the coil was on it's way out, replaced it (and the lead extenders while I was at it) and it's a totally different car now. For £40 it's a worth while replacement, 'cos when it does go it's a right pain!
Edited by grif500 on Thursday 6th July 15:25
Neil,
I had something similar when I replaced my leads for Magnicore ones. It turned out that the new leads (Mainly the King lead) were arcing to the juberlee clip on the top of the swirl pot/coolant pipes. This only seemed to be a problem when the engine was hot.
I think this is because the Magnicor leads sit up higher than the original leads.
Note that you can also remove the spacers on the distributor cap ....well I could on mine anyway, and this will give a bit more clearance for the leads.
Saw your other thread, hang onto the socket until you are sure you have things sorted with the Lambda sensors.
Phil
I had something similar when I replaced my leads for Magnicore ones. It turned out that the new leads (Mainly the King lead) were arcing to the juberlee clip on the top of the swirl pot/coolant pipes. This only seemed to be a problem when the engine was hot.
I think this is because the Magnicor leads sit up higher than the original leads.
Note that you can also remove the spacers on the distributor cap ....well I could on mine anyway, and this will give a bit more clearance for the leads.
Saw your other thread, hang onto the socket until you are sure you have things sorted with the Lambda sensors.
Phil
TVRThomo said:
Ntel,
It seems to be when its hot. The problem is when I pull up and take it out of gear i.e let the car idle, it will hunt for revs then sound like it's about to cut out, catch it again to keep it idling then maybe the next time it won't catch it and then it just cuts out. Before changing the lambda sensor I replaced the plugs and leads (Magnecor blue). I also cleaned the stepper and butterfly valve ... Oh and I replaced the cool temp sensor aswell. Do you think that maybe I will need to clean the above again inc. the plugs ?
It seems to be when its hot. The problem is when I pull up and take it out of gear i.e let the car idle, it will hunt for revs then sound like it's about to cut out, catch it again to keep it idling then maybe the next time it won't catch it and then it just cuts out. Before changing the lambda sensor I replaced the plugs and leads (Magnecor blue). I also cleaned the stepper and butterfly valve ... Oh and I replaced the cool temp sensor aswell. Do you think that maybe I will need to clean the above again inc. the plugs ?
Done all the above plus dizzy cap, coil and battery.
Mine used to cut out at any speed (outside lane of motorway, blind bends etc
) - it was intermittent. Now keep it on a maintenance battery charger and it's never run so well. Hopefully, fingers crossed, the problem has been cured.
philr said:
Note that you can also remove the spacers on the distributor cap ....well I could on mine anyway, and this will give a bit more clearance for the leads.
Phil
Hi Phil,
Not sure what you mean about the spacers, I've had a quick look and can't see anything like that ? Are they between the dissy and lead and is there a separate spacer per lead ?
Neil,
the "spacers " on my dizzy cap seemed to be just to extend the connection for each plug lead. So yes there is one per plug lead.
It may be that you cap doesn't have these, but mine did....I just thought they were part of the cap.
They extended the connection point by about 1 inch ....making the leads 1 inch nearer to the jubilee clip above. With the spacers removed, the connectors are no more than 1/2 inch above the surface of the dizzy cap.
I also used cable ties to hold the leads well away from any other bits of metal....well as best you can in an engine bay.
Phil
the "spacers " on my dizzy cap seemed to be just to extend the connection for each plug lead. So yes there is one per plug lead.
It may be that you cap doesn't have these, but mine did....I just thought they were part of the cap.
They extended the connection point by about 1 inch ....making the leads 1 inch nearer to the jubilee clip above. With the spacers removed, the connectors are no more than 1/2 inch above the surface of the dizzy cap.
I also used cable ties to hold the leads well away from any other bits of metal....well as best you can in an engine bay.
Phil
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