Spoke too soon... (timing help)
Discussion
It was inevitable really, I should've kept my mush shut.
The car was running rough, starting well but you could tell it was a tad out of time. So I cleaned the points up and reset them to the correct gap. 0.40. and they're getting a good spark. Plugs spark, fuel is present but it will not fire. I've tried putting the gap back to wide as it was before but same problem? Dizzy and rotor arm are good.
Have I somehow put the timing out by mucking about with the points? The distributor itself is solid and hasn't moved but it seems to be out of time????
The car was running rough, starting well but you could tell it was a tad out of time. So I cleaned the points up and reset them to the correct gap. 0.40. and they're getting a good spark. Plugs spark, fuel is present but it will not fire. I've tried putting the gap back to wide as it was before but same problem? Dizzy and rotor arm are good.
Have I somehow put the timing out by mucking about with the points? The distributor itself is solid and hasn't moved but it seems to be out of time????
Edited by kleaky88 on Monday 10th July 11:21
did this many years ago (around 1977) with an MG Midget, missed a good night out because of it.....check that you have the insulating bushes that hold the points and also the washer in the correct place
Then recheck the timing. If you are doing it static, are you matching crank pulley mark with the spark at the points when they are closing or opening, another silly mistake i have done.
make sure you know which way the rotor rotates
Biggest recent silly mistake is checking a circular saw when it was still connected.
Severed tendon, mashed nerve & 16 stiches makes Mini Spanner rash look like a blemish
Then recheck the timing. If you are doing it static, are you matching crank pulley mark with the spark at the points when they are closing or opening, another silly mistake i have done.
make sure you know which way the rotor rotates
Biggest recent silly mistake is checking a circular saw when it was still connected.
Severed tendon, mashed nerve & 16 stiches makes Mini Spanner rash look like a blemish
Wildfire said:
I'm sure having it off can't be good.
would you care to re-phrase that?
You're right about disconnect pipe and 1500rpm though
Running with the pipe disconnected wouldn't cause sever misfires though, much of the advance is done by the weights. Think theres something more fundamental. Dodgy coil, lead, cap, or setting the timing up wrongly....
The best dizzys, points type that is, are the Cooper 'S' ones(Lucas 25D?) which don't have a vac adv/rtd mechanism, but are curved to suit from static to max rpm/load. The Aldon ones for modified engines have different available advance, different weights/springs and achieve more advance at max rpm with the same standard static setting to ensure the thing will turn over on the starter. You can modify a unit with vac adv to delete this and just use a mechanical advance. IMHO this is a very good thing to do as it's more reliable. Alternatively just send a spare dizzy to Aldon who will rebuild it with no vac adv and a curve to suit your engine. The cost: c.£100, and the dizzy comes back like new. Don't forget to blank off the vac pipe on the carb.
skyedriver said:
Wildfire said:
I'm sure having it off can't be good.
would you care to re-phrase that?
You're right about disconnect pipe and 1500rpm though
Running with the pipe disconnected wouldn't cause sever misfires though, much of the advance is done by the weights. Think theres something more fundamental. Dodgy coil, lead, cap, or setting the timing up wrongly....
Sorry was posting at work. I meant that you should really run it with it connected for the best results, unless you are timing the car. Would it not affect the mixture in some was as there would be effectively a leak near the carb?
Took the HT leads off one at a time and then put them back. But have checked the firing order and they are correct. I just can't start the bloody thing to alter the timing. I tried it with the vaccuum connected but to no avail.
If I have someone turn it over whilst I turn the dizzy until it starts would that work? Then at least I could time her up once running. Just seems odd cos I haven't actually done anything to alter the car.
If I have someone turn it over whilst I turn the dizzy until it starts would that work? Then at least I could time her up once running. Just seems odd cos I haven't actually done anything to alter the car.
Back in the dim and distant past when I had a Mini, it broke down on me one time in the middle of nowhere and wouldn't re-start.
I worked out that it must be an electrical fault, but for the life of me couldn't find the problem.
Ended up having to walk a few miles to an AA phonebox to get rescued (this was in the days before mobile phones were ubiquitous). The AA chap had a poke aroud and discovered a lead that had snapped inside the weatherproofing over the spade connector. Therefore the wire looked like it was connected but actually wasn't.
My memory's a bit hazy but I'm pretty sure it was a small lead connected to the dizzy. A quick crimp on of a new spade and it started 1st time.
Perhaps soething silly like this has happened to yours, i.e. you've disturbed a wire whilst fiddling with the dizzy but it looks ok at a glance?
I worked out that it must be an electrical fault, but for the life of me couldn't find the problem.
Ended up having to walk a few miles to an AA phonebox to get rescued (this was in the days before mobile phones were ubiquitous). The AA chap had a poke aroud and discovered a lead that had snapped inside the weatherproofing over the spade connector. Therefore the wire looked like it was connected but actually wasn't.
My memory's a bit hazy but I'm pretty sure it was a small lead connected to the dizzy. A quick crimp on of a new spade and it started 1st time.
Perhaps soething silly like this has happened to yours, i.e. you've disturbed a wire whilst fiddling with the dizzy but it looks ok at a glance?
Just to let you all know we got her going over the weekend. Turned out that the dizzy was shot. After three hours of checking and changing things we finally had her running sweet, all be it after changing most of the ignition system. We set the timing by ear and she's running fine. Only thing left to change is the points and condenser and that'll be it. 
Edited by kleaky88 on Monday 17th July 10:38
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