Nut on Header Tank
Nut on Header Tank
Author
Discussion

BatleyBoy

Original Poster:

2,036 posts

251 months

Monday 10th July 2006
quotequote all
Engine over heating!
I need to re fill the cooling system and need to get the nut off the header tank.
Bloody thing won't shift. Any suggestions please?

That Daddy

19,454 posts

251 months

Monday 10th July 2006
quotequote all
as a last resort i think there,s just enough meat on there to get a good set of molegrips or stilsons on,failing that the nuts soft enough to drill out,doubt you will have to resort to this.please dont be tempted to use your car if its low on coolant.failing that take the bottle off put the cap in a vice & twist the whole pot,more leverage see.

BatleyBoy

Original Poster:

2,036 posts

251 months

Monday 10th July 2006
quotequote all
Ta for advice Simon.
I dropped a clanger yesterday by topping up the expansion tank up with pure antifreeze by mistake.
It was ok this morning, but boiled up on way home. Got to close to 120 degrees. Managed to get it home, and it boiled over and spat the antifreeze out.
I am not sure I actually need to get into the header tank as I have re-filled the expansion tank (two 3rds full) with a 50/50 antifreeze / water mix and run it for 15 mins. It got up to just over 95 degrees and the fans then kicked in and cooled it down closer to 90 degrees. I checked the heater system and the heater is blowing hot when required, and blows cool when I turn the heater off.
I hope everything is now ok, but I have to say i am a bit afraid to drive it to work tomorow!
Any thoughts?

ATG

23,801 posts

302 months

Monday 10th July 2006
quotequote all
Have you tried a big screw driver side on?

M@H

11,298 posts

302 months

Monday 10th July 2006
quotequote all
If you mean the swirl pot then just get a big bit of metal across it (or a big screwdriver as mentioned) I have a very slim "wrecking" bar that works perfectly. If you mean the expansion tank (blue cap) then you can gently "drift" it round with a bit of wood and a hammer (be careful).

BatleyBoy

Original Poster:

2,036 posts

251 months

Monday 10th July 2006
quotequote all
Yep tried that, but it started to strip the brass nut.
As I say, I hope I have sorted it by simply re-filling the header tank with the correct water / anti freeze mix.
I have run it on idle for another 15 mins up to temp. It peaked at just under 90, and the fans kicked in to cool it a degree or two. So I hope all is okay.
I guess I will only know when i go to work tomorrow.

M@H

11,298 posts

302 months

Monday 10th July 2006
quotequote all
That won't help you I'm afraid as you will have a large "air mass" in the top of the swirl pot. If you look at the pipe from the expansion tank you'll find it goes to the top of the swirl pot beside the brass nut. Accordingly there is no way for that coolant in the expansion tank to travel uphill to get into the swirl pot.

You've got to get the nut off to fill the system properly I'm afraid.

ATG

23,801 posts

302 months

Monday 10th July 2006
quotequote all
I'd be very cautious about estimating how full the system is without being able to look in the swirl pot. Have you tried loosening the bleed nut on the radiator and seeing if fluid comes out? Might also be worth seeing if you can shift the swirl pot nut when the engine is hot. Obviously you wouldn't want to remove it when the system is hot, but thermal expansion might just free the nut up a bit.

BatleyBoy

Original Poster:

2,036 posts

251 months

Monday 10th July 2006
quotequote all
Tried the bleed nut on the radiator and it's dry!
I have tried again to release the brass nut on the header / swirl pot, but it just won't shift.
Not sure what to do next!

victormeldrew

8,293 posts

307 months

Monday 10th July 2006
quotequote all
A very big screwdriver, tyre levers, crowbar, anything like that will do it, when you've lost enough of your knuckles. If you haven't got anything quite thick enough put your biggest implement in from whichever side you can get best purchase from, then tap a flat blade scredriver in from the other side to wedge it in place. If you can find someone daft enough get them to cover the lot to stop them slipping up and out. Strong gloves would be a good idea.

You'll find many an expansion tank with a concave top due to exertions trying to get that brass plug shifted. When you finally do get it shifted you might want to look at Steve Heaths site, he does a nice replacement which does away with the aggro.



Edited by victormeldrew on Monday 10th July 21:40

M@H

11,298 posts

302 months

Monday 10th July 2006
quotequote all
err.. don't go too bull at a gate at it mind you or you could tear/bend the aly.. as mentioned Brass and Aly have different expansion characteristics so it might well shift with some heat (A soldering torch could help actaully) Oh and try a raft of penetrating oils etc (not combined with direct heat!!)

Do not rely on it being ok at the moment especially if the bleed screw in the Rad is dry!



Edited by M@H on Monday 10th July 21:41

BatleyBoy

Original Poster:

2,036 posts

251 months

Monday 10th July 2006
quotequote all
Done it!!
Managed to get the screw off with a bit of extra leverage.
Re-filled the system by following the insructions in the handbook.... kept feeding the swirl tank whilst bleeding the radiator. I hope it will be ok. I will keep an eye on it tomorrow, and hopefully theres no damage done due to over heating.
Thanks for all the help, much appreciated.

victormeldrew

8,293 posts

307 months

Monday 10th July 2006
quotequote all
Cool! Now get yourself one of these:



https://delta.securesslhost.net/~shenglt/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=31&products_id=41&osCsid=8c4715fdfb8281a523003fcf235b14e5

M@H

11,298 posts

302 months

Monday 10th July 2006
quotequote all
BatleyBoy said:
Done it!!


Phew Jolly good

over_the_hill

3,334 posts

276 months

Monday 10th July 2006
quotequote all
Before replacing with the Steve Heath version as pictured I used a
Bolster chisel sideways on with an adjustable spanner across the blade
of the chisel - worked a treat. (chisel handle in one hand, adjustable
in the other).

BatleyBoy

Original Poster:

2,036 posts

251 months

Tuesday 11th July 2006
quotequote all
Rad bleed nut leaking this morning, so I have had to do the whole thing again!
Seems fine now, no leaks, fans working, heater working and the temp is hovering at 90 degrees or just under.

richb

56,332 posts

314 months

Tuesday 11th July 2006
quotequote all
BatleyBoy said:
Ta for advice Simon.
I dropped a clanger yesterday by topping up the expansion tank up with pure antifreeze by mistake.
Why do you say that's a clanger? Won't do any harm at all, you can run on 100% anti-freeze if you want.

That Daddy

19,454 posts

251 months

Tuesday 11th July 2006
quotequote all
No you can,t anything over 60% antifreeze and the water pump wont circulate the coolant properly,the impellor will just cavitate in the stagnant coolant,poor advice.no more than 50/50 please.

Edited by That Daddy on Tuesday 11th July 15:01

BatleyBoy

Original Poster:

2,036 posts

251 months

Tuesday 11th July 2006
quotequote all
[/quote]Why do you say that's a clanger? Won't do any harm at all, you can run on 100% anti-freeze if you want.[/quote]
Everything was okay until I topped it up with pure coolant.... then the problems started. When I checked the owners manual and it specified a 50/50 mix. Hence my assumption that I had dropped a clanger.

That Daddy

19,454 posts

251 months

Tuesday 11th July 2006
quotequote all
sorry i was just corrcting richb,s posting,if you spill coolant you will see the viscosity differance between water & neat antifreeze hence why you can not use cooling system with 100% coolant.hope that clears things up.