Discussion
Does your polo even want semi synthetic?
I would think it just wanted a good 10-40 mineral oil.
Unless you are using it for racing or some other high stress application, or for some reason going well beyond service interval there will be no benefit at all to going synthetic.
On engines designed to run on mineral oil using semi or fully synthetic causes more problems than benefits usually burning oil and leaking oil.
I would think it just wanted a good 10-40 mineral oil.
Unless you are using it for racing or some other high stress application, or for some reason going well beyond service interval there will be no benefit at all to going synthetic.
On engines designed to run on mineral oil using semi or fully synthetic causes more problems than benefits usually burning oil and leaking oil.
Possibly try asking here:
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=237642&f=23&h=0
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=237642&f=23&h=0
OK you've drawn me in on this one!
I run an RV8 for which the designers specified a certain viscosity. I happen to think the bloke who developed it knows more than me so for normal applications I'd stick to those figures or as near as you can get.
Having said that oil chemistry has moved on in leaps and bounds since those prehistoric days and better protection and longer intervals are possible by using a good brand synthetic. DON’T FORGET TO USE THE CORRECT VISCOSITY. There's great marketing on Mobil 0w water (which you pay for) but it's simply the wrong viscosity for my oil pump/system I currently use the motorsport stuff instead which is the correct spec.
It would be interesting to compare two identical engines one run on synthetic and one on a good mineral but with more frequent oil changes. While I do believe in the benefits of synthetic the extended intervals mean that contamination, like un-burnt fuel etc.. build up to higher levels. It's only by changing the oil that you flush out all the contamination.
A case in point. A Rover P6 run the whole of its considerable life with two (mineral) oil changes a year and the occasional sump off for a wipe out. The oil coming out looks the same as the stuff going in, now tell me the synthetic longer intervals are a better way to go?
I run an RV8 for which the designers specified a certain viscosity. I happen to think the bloke who developed it knows more than me so for normal applications I'd stick to those figures or as near as you can get.
Having said that oil chemistry has moved on in leaps and bounds since those prehistoric days and better protection and longer intervals are possible by using a good brand synthetic. DON’T FORGET TO USE THE CORRECT VISCOSITY. There's great marketing on Mobil 0w water (which you pay for) but it's simply the wrong viscosity for my oil pump/system I currently use the motorsport stuff instead which is the correct spec.
It would be interesting to compare two identical engines one run on synthetic and one on a good mineral but with more frequent oil changes. While I do believe in the benefits of synthetic the extended intervals mean that contamination, like un-burnt fuel etc.. build up to higher levels. It's only by changing the oil that you flush out all the contamination.
A case in point. A Rover P6 run the whole of its considerable life with two (mineral) oil changes a year and the occasional sump off for a wipe out. The oil coming out looks the same as the stuff going in, now tell me the synthetic longer intervals are a better way to go?
I agree entirely.
However its not always good news for oil to come out clean, Oil is working when it gets dirty as it is trapping the contaminants in to the oil, if its not in the oil its depositing elsewhere eg your sump.
I would stay with a good quality semi synth as thats whats reccomended, and stay with the correct viscosity.
If you need any help we can supply Morris oils which are a very very high quality oil by 25L drum or 5L can.
However its not always good news for oil to come out clean, Oil is working when it gets dirty as it is trapping the contaminants in to the oil, if its not in the oil its depositing elsewhere eg your sump.
I would stay with a good quality semi synth as thats whats reccomended, and stay with the correct viscosity.
If you need any help we can supply Morris oils which are a very very high quality oil by 25L drum or 5L can.
I think in the particular (pun?) P6 example It comes out clean because six months and only a few hundred miles means there aren't enough particles to change the colour of the oil.
I didn't mean to recommend going to mineral oil in the Polo
For normal application you should never go below the OEM specification mineral/synthetic wise or mess with the viscosity.
I didn't mean to recommend going to mineral oil in the Polo
For normal application you should never go below the OEM specification mineral/synthetic wise or mess with the viscosity.
No such thing as semi synth, it's mineral oil with a bit of marketing. Fully synthetic oils are not all tbe same either.
Agree with viscosity, run what it's supposed to run unless it's very much modified. My engine used to be in a motorbike and it'supposed to take 10/40 with a specific API rating. In a car the engine works a lot harder and the oil gets hotter so I use a 15/50 fully synthetic with the same API rating.
Agree with viscosity, run what it's supposed to run unless it's very much modified. My engine used to be in a motorbike and it'supposed to take 10/40 with a specific API rating. In a car the engine works a lot harder and the oil gets hotter so I use a 15/50 fully synthetic with the same API rating.
The water 0W40 is still approx 10 times thicker cold than at operating temps.
When considering oils it is worth considering what causes varnish and sludge, and the thickness of oils at high temps
If you consider oil is the correct thickness at 100c then if posssible the oil should be as close to this either side. Synthetics especially esters have the ability to thicken less when cooler and thin less when hotter.
When considering oils it is worth considering what causes varnish and sludge, and the thickness of oils at high temps
If you consider oil is the correct thickness at 100c then if posssible the oil should be as close to this either side. Synthetics especially esters have the ability to thicken less when cooler and thin less when hotter.
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