Please help with advice on buying a Chimaera
Discussion
All
Currently in the process of getting together the cash to buy my first TVR (love them), having done about 6 months of looking through mags (and about 30 years of obsessing about cars).... I wondered if anyone had advice about what to look out for as problems on Chimaera's for me. Main questions are.
1. What are the things that you walk away from if you spot on a used Chimaera?
2. Best place to pick one up - dealer vs private.
3. What are the relative differences in buying a 4.0 vs 4.5 - 4.0's seem the right choice for me, but are you missing out on the extra oomph?
4. Do you think that they need garaging - I've picked up on the electrics being a potential problem, what's the best way round this?
Probably all pretty dumb questions, but would be a real help for me if you can give me a hand.
Thanks
DKMDD
Currently in the process of getting together the cash to buy my first TVR (love them), having done about 6 months of looking through mags (and about 30 years of obsessing about cars).... I wondered if anyone had advice about what to look out for as problems on Chimaera's for me. Main questions are.
1. What are the things that you walk away from if you spot on a used Chimaera?
2. Best place to pick one up - dealer vs private.
3. What are the relative differences in buying a 4.0 vs 4.5 - 4.0's seem the right choice for me, but are you missing out on the extra oomph?
4. Do you think that they need garaging - I've picked up on the electrics being a potential problem, what's the best way round this?
Probably all pretty dumb questions, but would be a real help for me if you can give me a hand.
Thanks
DKMDD
I'm sure more experienced people will be along shortly, but if you want a list of things to look out for, there is a 'buying guide' in Steve Heath's book. An abbreviated version of this is available from his website for free. Look at a few, and you'll soon see where the pitfalls are. 400 or 450? In the end, you'll end up buying for the overall car not the engine size. I'd rather have a good 400 than a tatty 450 (although I have a very nice 450...). Go along to a TVRCC meeting, chat to owners, ask as many questions as you have (or post them here). Make sure you're as informed as you can be before taking the plunge. Forgot to check where you live, but most owners are only too happy to show off their cars (so if you're near Cambridge...). Good luck!!
Welcome!
1. Walk away from a rotten chassis or poor service records (note stamps from know specialists are as good if not better then FTVRSH), pretty much anything else can be fixed if you take it into account in the price. That said you may as well get a good one and save yourself the hassle.
2. You pay your money and take your choice. For my first TVR I went to a dealer because I wanted a warrenty. If/when I buy another I'll probably go private. You can go for the best of both worlds and pay for a private car to be inspected.
3. Dunno, I've got a 500..
4. Mine sits outside under a cover and I've had zero problems. Not sure what the electrical problems that you describe are. The main concern is the roof leaking but with regular treatment this isn't a problem.
Beyond this I can only advise checking out my buyer's guide and joining the club.
Good luck!
1. Walk away from a rotten chassis or poor service records (note stamps from know specialists are as good if not better then FTVRSH), pretty much anything else can be fixed if you take it into account in the price. That said you may as well get a good one and save yourself the hassle.
2. You pay your money and take your choice. For my first TVR I went to a dealer because I wanted a warrenty. If/when I buy another I'll probably go private. You can go for the best of both worlds and pay for a private car to be inspected.
3. Dunno, I've got a 500..
4. Mine sits outside under a cover and I've had zero problems. Not sure what the electrical problems that you describe are. The main concern is the roof leaking but with regular treatment this isn't a problem.
Beyond this I can only advise checking out my buyer's guide and joining the club.
Good luck!
dont buy one that needs work you will regret it and so will your pockets,buy the best you can afford,take someone who knows these cars there lots to check,dont buy a pig thinking you can do it up,watch out theres loads of pig cars out there i,ve seen plenty.,having said that good luck you will find a good-un.
That Daddy said:
dont buy one that needs work you will regret it and so will your pockets,buy the best you can afford,take someone who knows these cars there lots to check,dont buy a pig thinking you can do it up,watch out theres loads of pig cars out there i,ve seen plenty.,having said that good luck you will find a good-un.
I hope to prove you wrong on that one. I picked one up this week which 'needs work' and doesn't have FSH.
However, the chassis is good, it runs well, doesn't leak (new hood), new clutch, new alternator, new tyres, has been cared for (battery conditioner, fan override, battery health indicator etc). It's going in for a complete service (with anything needing it being replaced) next week, so we'll see.....
D
deejay i hope you do, and i hope it isnt a green HC.you have to way/up low price work needed verses good money nothing needed.my brother and me just bagged one for him and ended up paying that bit extra for a car that needs nothing,beleive me we looked at loads of shit...needing loads of work.
Edited by That Daddy on Friday 21st July 15:58
That Daddy said:
deejay i hope you do, and i hope it isnt a green HC.you have to way/up low price work needed verses good money nothing needed.my brother and me just bagged one for him and ended up paying that bit extra for a car that needs nothing,beleive me we looked at loads of shit...needing loads of work.
Edited by That Daddy on Friday 21st July 15:58
No, not a HC (but it is Green) and doesn't have PAS so not the one you were referring to earlier
It's going to be a track car, so I was going to be replacing bits anyway. It does have crappy front disks, which I was going to change anyway and seems to have typical Chim suspension (i.e. terrible).
We'll see, If I can get it to track spec and mechanically sorted for 10k, then I'll be more than happy.
That Daddy said:
Deejay track spec why dident you say this guys after a road car,theres faults you can live with on a race car not so as an everyday driver.mmmmmmmmmm
I suppose it depends on how picky you are. I could throw a couple of std disks on it, buy a new dash, get it serviced and get any paint issues fixed by a mobile sprayer and it'd be fine for a road car, all for <8k. I suspect it all depends on your tolerances. If you want a minter, a pride and joy weekend car that looks the business, then I agree - buy one that's been looked after and had all the niggles fixed as they have arisen.
However, if you want a rough and ready kind of car that won't win any shows but will be reliable, I reckon there are bargains to be had.
D
Some good advice given already.
One thing that would make me walk away (and I did this on two occasions before I bought my 450) is a dank, musty smell that indicates the car's a leaker - either through the roof (generally not), the base of the windscreen (occasionally), the wiper spigots (occasionally), the seals round the brake fluid reservoir and clutch master cylinder cover (commonly), around the grommets sealing cables/pipes going through the bulkhead and inner wing or the door seals (i've probably missed several other points of water entry).
The smell is most pronounced when the car is closed on a hot day - be suspicious if the top is off when you go to view. If it is make sure you go back on some other occasion when it's been on overnight. Also be suspicious if you can't get into the passenger seat for all the air purifiers and dehumidifiers scattered around
Leaks are fixable although it may take some time and effort. Getting rid of the smell even with a retrim is a big problem. Anyone who has allowed the leak to continue to the extent that the carpets are constantly damp/wet is someone to me that is not a TVR enthusiast and therefore unlikely to have attended to other elements of normal maintenance and repair.
I was successful buying privately but paid 150 notes for a local TVR dealer to give it a thorough once over. The written report (TVR main dealer) was very informative. In fact I did this twice before finding the right one and never regret that outlay for the peace of mind it gave me.
Good luck - you're asking the right questions
One thing that would make me walk away (and I did this on two occasions before I bought my 450) is a dank, musty smell that indicates the car's a leaker - either through the roof (generally not), the base of the windscreen (occasionally), the wiper spigots (occasionally), the seals round the brake fluid reservoir and clutch master cylinder cover (commonly), around the grommets sealing cables/pipes going through the bulkhead and inner wing or the door seals (i've probably missed several other points of water entry).
The smell is most pronounced when the car is closed on a hot day - be suspicious if the top is off when you go to view. If it is make sure you go back on some other occasion when it's been on overnight. Also be suspicious if you can't get into the passenger seat for all the air purifiers and dehumidifiers scattered around
Leaks are fixable although it may take some time and effort. Getting rid of the smell even with a retrim is a big problem. Anyone who has allowed the leak to continue to the extent that the carpets are constantly damp/wet is someone to me that is not a TVR enthusiast and therefore unlikely to have attended to other elements of normal maintenance and repair.
I was successful buying privately but paid 150 notes for a local TVR dealer to give it a thorough once over. The written report (TVR main dealer) was very informative. In fact I did this twice before finding the right one and never regret that outlay for the peace of mind it gave me.
Good luck - you're asking the right questions
Walk away from cracked arches/paintwork IMHO.. Can indicate damage to the GRP which could cost hundreds, or over 1k to fix..
Walk away from rusty as hell chassis.
Walk away from one that isn't their pride and joy (one sale was lost when the owner informed me that it was the previous owners pride and joy who had shown him how to do all things like take the roof off neatly but he had forgotten, which also explained the scratches along the boot) as these cars need to be well looked after.
Get it inspected. £1-200 spent now can save 1-2k.
Electrical problems.. My first Chimaera had no end of electrical problems, but a local auto electrician rewired it for me completely and I never had any more problems.. Unless you mean battery drain, which can happen if they are left 2 weeks or so without being started, so get an optimate/accumate charger...
4-4.5? Not 100% sure..I had a 4 which felt fast.. Test drove a 4.5 which felt fast. Bought a 5 which felt fast.. I think it is safe to say that the 4.0, if it is your first foray into TVRs is the starter car to get you a little used to the power?!?
One of the best things you can do right now IMO is to go to a couple of club meets, and look at a few.. Talk to the owners. Ask one of them to take you out for a spin (I used to do this now and again at meets)...And Don't buy the first one you drive, it will feel fast, it will sound good, it will look good... They all do that....
Walk away from rusty as hell chassis.
Walk away from one that isn't their pride and joy (one sale was lost when the owner informed me that it was the previous owners pride and joy who had shown him how to do all things like take the roof off neatly but he had forgotten, which also explained the scratches along the boot) as these cars need to be well looked after.
Get it inspected. £1-200 spent now can save 1-2k.
Electrical problems.. My first Chimaera had no end of electrical problems, but a local auto electrician rewired it for me completely and I never had any more problems.. Unless you mean battery drain, which can happen if they are left 2 weeks or so without being started, so get an optimate/accumate charger...
4-4.5? Not 100% sure..I had a 4 which felt fast.. Test drove a 4.5 which felt fast. Bought a 5 which felt fast.. I think it is safe to say that the 4.0, if it is your first foray into TVRs is the starter car to get you a little used to the power?!?
One of the best things you can do right now IMO is to go to a couple of club meets, and look at a few.. Talk to the owners. Ask one of them to take you out for a spin (I used to do this now and again at meets)...And Don't buy the first one you drive, it will feel fast, it will sound good, it will look good... They all do that....
Edited by jasandjules on Friday 21st July 21:40
Hi,
To be honest i bought my first Chimaera 6 weeks ago and i went in blind bought the first car i saw and did not check for any of the above i bought because of the price it was all i had at the time, and i could'nt wait another day
you know what they say about a fool and his money.
I paid 7.5k and came home at an indicated speed of 150mph
on a private road of course worth every penny. The car now stands me at 10k but i must add that some of that 2.5k is cosmetic i have replaced all the controls and dashboard with leven aluminium
4 new dunlops a full service and tune up, but the things that were wrong were wishbones, ball joints top arms and bushes. Luckily after joining Pistonheads i have now found out what to look for and mine has a good chassis no leaks at all and a strong engine and drivetrain, what i did look at was only 2 owners full TVR or specialist service history and general appearance. I might just be lucky but generally this is how i have bought all my cars over the past 25 years. The only thing i will say is the work i have carried out on mine and other vehicles in the past gives me peace of mind to know that it has been done and to a good standard so i won't be getting any suprise's in the near future {i hope,} you can spend more money buying perfect but these problems may just be round the corner
.
Good luck you won't be dissapointed.
To be honest i bought my first Chimaera 6 weeks ago and i went in blind bought the first car i saw and did not check for any of the above i bought because of the price it was all i had at the time, and i could'nt wait another day
you know what they say about a fool and his money. I paid 7.5k and came home at an indicated speed of 150mph
on a private road of course worth every penny. The car now stands me at 10k but i must add that some of that 2.5k is cosmetic i have replaced all the controls and dashboard with leven aluminium 4 new dunlops a full service and tune up, but the things that were wrong were wishbones, ball joints top arms and bushes. Luckily after joining Pistonheads i have now found out what to look for and mine has a good chassis no leaks at all and a strong engine and drivetrain, what i did look at was only 2 owners full TVR or specialist service history and general appearance. I might just be lucky but generally this is how i have bought all my cars over the past 25 years. The only thing i will say is the work i have carried out on mine and other vehicles in the past gives me peace of mind to know that it has been done and to a good standard so i won't be getting any suprise's in the near future {i hope,} you can spend more money buying perfect but these problems may just be round the corner. Good luck you won't be dissapointed.
Hi Des,
lots of good advice above.
I was in the same position as you, but without any real mechnical experience, and this being my first Tiv, i wanted a well sorted car, with a decent warranty.
In my experience, a trip to Fernhursts would be well worth the journey. www.fernhurst-tvr.co.uk/
They are all enthusiasts, very knowledgable, and willing to let you try a few out. Speak to Simon or Drew, you will not be put under pressure to buy.
I was there this week collecting mine from its first service under my ownership (6k miles in 6 months!), it hasn't missed a beat, and nothing apart from the regular service items were needed. They had a good selection of Chims for sale.
Good luck with your hunt
P.S.
I'm not on commission by the way, just beleive in sharing good experiences.
lots of good advice above.
I was in the same position as you, but without any real mechnical experience, and this being my first Tiv, i wanted a well sorted car, with a decent warranty.
In my experience, a trip to Fernhursts would be well worth the journey. www.fernhurst-tvr.co.uk/
They are all enthusiasts, very knowledgable, and willing to let you try a few out. Speak to Simon or Drew, you will not be put under pressure to buy.
I was there this week collecting mine from its first service under my ownership (6k miles in 6 months!), it hasn't missed a beat, and nothing apart from the regular service items were needed. They had a good selection of Chims for sale.
Good luck with your hunt
P.S.
I'm not on commission by the way, just beleive in sharing good experiences.
e2djh said:
In my experience, a trip to Fernhursts would be well worth the journey. www.fernhurst-tvr.co.uk/
They are all enthusiasts, very knowledgable, and willing to let you try a few out. Speak to Simon or Drew, you will not be put under pressure to buy.
I was there this week collecting mine from its first service under my ownership (6k miles in 6 months!), it hasn't missed a beat, and nothing apart from the regular service items were needed. They had a good selection of Chims for sale.
Hi e2djh
I'm assuming you bought yours from Fernhurst. I'm saving up for a Chim and I did a test drive there which confirmed my obsession. Did you go for a fully-prepared one with their 12 month warrenty or a 'standard' one? I'm trying to work out if the extra is worth it for the fully-prepared and what your experience was.
broadhat said:
Hi e2djh
I'm assuming you bought yours from Fernhurst. I'm saving up for a Chim and I did a test drive there which confirmed my obsession. Did you go for a fully-prepared one with their 12 month warrenty or a 'standard' one? I'm trying to work out if the extra is worth it for the fully-prepared and what your experience was.
Hi Gareth,
Yes, Ferhursts had the car i wanted, and at a price i considerd fair. I had originally planned to go for a 4.0, but the colour/trim i wanted was available on the 450, and once i had driven it, there was no real decision to be made.
I went for the fully prepared one, because i'm no mechanical expert, and they gave a warranty on all the major (ie non-consumable) parts. This being my first Tiv, and having heard all of the doom and gloom stories about reliability, i really didn't want to end up with a pup.
Apart from a blown indicator bulb, i have enjoyed 6k miles of trouble-free motoring, mostly driven "enthusiastically".
I am sure that there are other dealers out there that can provide a similar service, but i found Fernies first. Their prices may be a little higher than buying privately, but the value to me of their warranty, and their heavily discounted labour rates to customers who purchase cars from them is well worth it - all IMHO of course
In short, if i was looking for another Tiv, i would definately use Fernhursts again.
Good luck with your hunt,
David
_DeeJay_ said:
However, if you want a rough and ready kind of car that won't win any shows but will be reliable, I reckon there are bargains to be had.
D
Its true.. sadly I passed on the deal of the decade because the bloke selling it was a complete c0ck. Still, it was a 4litre Chim for threee grand ..should have bought it really
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