Inner Head Nuts....
Discussion
Don't suppose anyone has any lying around that they don't need (unlikely, I know!)? One of mine, one of the taller ones on the inner side, was slightly bent and I'm not convinced it has torqued down properly. I've tried TVR power and they can't help (can't supply heat barriers either 
), so I thought this might be worth a shot - or even if anyone knows what other car they may be from!? Apart from that the rebuild went surprisingly smoothly.......
), so I thought this might be worth a shot - or even if anyone knows what other car they may be from!? Apart from that the rebuild went surprisingly smoothly.......
Cheers guys, I'll keep trying!!
Hi Matt, yeah, just about finishing a year long 'nut and bolt' restoration/rebuild of my Cerb, hoping to get her running by end of next month. Did it over the odd weekend in my garage, the work has been (hope I remember it all!!!);
Chassis;
Removed, sand blasted, zinc coated, powder coated (blue of course). This includes all the suspension parts, wishbones, roll bars, strengthening plates etc etc.
Engine;
Stripped to short block and heads, contracted out blueprinting, balancing, port and polished heads, new valve guides. New piston rings, big end and main bearings. Polished/de-burred intakes. Fuel injectors cleaned/balanced. New braided oil lines, new oil cooler, oil thermostat plumbed in, oil temp sensor and gauge. Block and heads rebuilt by me!!! New stainless water pipes and silicone hoses. Exhaust manifold ceramic coated (by me!) and wrapped with new copper impregnated thermal wrap. Exhaust pipes wrapped also, up to back boxes. Extensive heat insulation of engine bay including adhesive foil and ali sheet.
Brakes;
New brake lines (custom made from copper pipe), new braided brake lines, AP 330mm grooved discs and ali bells (upgraded from 291 cast discs), custom made spacers to suit. Fast road pads, racing brake fluid.
Fuel System;
Uprated Bosch motorsport pump, new braided feed and return fuel lines
Suspension;
4.5 front roll bar, complete set of new Powerflex glacier poly bearings, steve heath rose-jointed drop links, nitron ntx dampers and custom springs
Interior;
New carpets (custom made and lined)
Misc;
Aircon removed. All new wheel bearings, track rod ends and front upper and lower ball joints. New clutch master seals. Did have cone filters on intakes but reverting back to standard setup.
There is probably a lot I've forgotten, but she looks like new at the moment. My pictures are spread around a bit - the early ones are a www.theratpac.com/guest/windsor and the latest ones at http://community.webshots.com/album/2 Any questions feel free, I've learned quite a bit!!!!
Hi Matt, yeah, just about finishing a year long 'nut and bolt' restoration/rebuild of my Cerb, hoping to get her running by end of next month. Did it over the odd weekend in my garage, the work has been (hope I remember it all!!!);
Chassis;
Removed, sand blasted, zinc coated, powder coated (blue of course). This includes all the suspension parts, wishbones, roll bars, strengthening plates etc etc.
Engine;
Stripped to short block and heads, contracted out blueprinting, balancing, port and polished heads, new valve guides. New piston rings, big end and main bearings. Polished/de-burred intakes. Fuel injectors cleaned/balanced. New braided oil lines, new oil cooler, oil thermostat plumbed in, oil temp sensor and gauge. Block and heads rebuilt by me!!! New stainless water pipes and silicone hoses. Exhaust manifold ceramic coated (by me!) and wrapped with new copper impregnated thermal wrap. Exhaust pipes wrapped also, up to back boxes. Extensive heat insulation of engine bay including adhesive foil and ali sheet.
Brakes;
New brake lines (custom made from copper pipe), new braided brake lines, AP 330mm grooved discs and ali bells (upgraded from 291 cast discs), custom made spacers to suit. Fast road pads, racing brake fluid.
Fuel System;
Uprated Bosch motorsport pump, new braided feed and return fuel lines
Suspension;
4.5 front roll bar, complete set of new Powerflex glacier poly bearings, steve heath rose-jointed drop links, nitron ntx dampers and custom springs
Interior;
New carpets (custom made and lined)
Misc;
Aircon removed. All new wheel bearings, track rod ends and front upper and lower ball joints. New clutch master seals. Did have cone filters on intakes but reverting back to standard setup.
There is probably a lot I've forgotten, but she looks like new at the moment. My pictures are spread around a bit - the early ones are a www.theratpac.com/guest/windsor and the latest ones at http://community.webshots.com/album/2 Any questions feel free, I've learned quite a bit!!!!
Edited by longbow on Saturday 22 July 21:49
Edited by longbow on Saturday 22 July 21:53
Nice job your doing there, can't wait to see the end result.
I too have a 4.2 so particularly interested to see what the engine is like after blue printing, balancing and the other bits and pieces you have done, also interested to hear feedback on the manifold binding with the heat resistant bandage, if it works without transferring too much heat to other places should solve a few reliability problems - are you still running cats? and if so will they be lagged? they seem to be the part that generates the most heat just where you don't need it.
I too have a 4.2 so particularly interested to see what the engine is like after blue printing, balancing and the other bits and pieces you have done, also interested to hear feedback on the manifold binding with the heat resistant bandage, if it works without transferring too much heat to other places should solve a few reliability problems - are you still running cats? and if so will they be lagged? they seem to be the part that generates the most heat just where you don't need it.
No, no cats!!! Yes, the heat management was a key issue I wanted to sort out, as a lot of ageing of the chassis and body was accelerated by heat damage - behind some of the carpets in the footwells the GRP was black!!! Many of the rubber hoses had cracked, split and blistered due to the heat too.
I've basically stripped the car, replaced the wearable items with new, but upgraded all of the plumbing with bits straight out of Demon Tweeks motorsport catalogue. Its all in a bid for ultimate reliability with an efficient engine. Last dyno was 359hp/330ftlb and I'm hoping to break 370 once she's run in properly. I'm going to try and get the engine set-up razor sharp using the laptop software and a synchrometer together. Run in program will be 1000 miles on running in oil (SAE30) then 6000 on GTX mineral before changing to a 5W50 fully synthetic. The ECU map is sweet, so don't want to mess that up. Once its all finished I'll try to document as much as possible to help out those of you that will inevitably be doing the same in the future. Not quite there yet though.............
I've basically stripped the car, replaced the wearable items with new, but upgraded all of the plumbing with bits straight out of Demon Tweeks motorsport catalogue. Its all in a bid for ultimate reliability with an efficient engine. Last dyno was 359hp/330ftlb and I'm hoping to break 370 once she's run in properly. I'm going to try and get the engine set-up razor sharp using the laptop software and a synchrometer together. Run in program will be 1000 miles on running in oil (SAE30) then 6000 on GTX mineral before changing to a 5W50 fully synthetic. The ECU map is sweet, so don't want to mess that up. Once its all finished I'll try to document as much as possible to help out those of you that will inevitably be doing the same in the future. Not quite there yet though.............
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