Doors not locking
Doors not locking
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5yearstobuyatvr

Original Poster:

788 posts

249 months

Saturday 22nd July 2006
quotequote all
Just noticed that my doors wont lock when i press the security button, there is the normal clunking sound as if the locks are working, followed by the four flashes, then press the mirror button either door, door opens, alarm sounds.Also noticed the door locking button green light is not working 100 % Need to fix,going to France shortly.Any ideas?

Ribol

11,995 posts

288 months

Saturday 22nd July 2006
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Are the door switches both working/adjusted properly, with spacers on both?

5yearstobuyatvr

Original Poster:

788 posts

249 months

Saturday 22nd July 2006
quotequote all
I take it that these are at the bottom of the doors,plunger type on a spring, there is movement freely, not sure if they are working though.

Ribol

11,995 posts

288 months

Sunday 23rd July 2006
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5yearstobuyatvr said:
I take it that these are at the bottom of the doors,plunger type on a spring, there is movement freely, not sure if they are working though.

Yes, there is a small round spacer stuck/screwed to the door itself, make sure it is releasing the switch enough(make it thicker with something to test). You should hear a clunk as you push/release them with door open if they are working.

5yearstobuyatvr

Original Poster:

788 posts

249 months

Sunday 23rd July 2006
quotequote all
Ivan,Thanks for your comments,Ihave checked rubber spacers ok, removed both switches, passenger side clunking ok, drivers side no clunking,but wiring seems to be ok, faulty contact?

Al 450

1,390 posts

251 months

Sunday 23rd July 2006
quotequote all
Open the doors and listen for a clunk when you press the door switch in, if you hear this then they are working electrically.

Check the rubber pad on the door presses the switch in enough when you close them.

Had the same problem with mine, turned out the latch mechanism in the door had jammed and the solenoid couldn't pull it up again. WD40 sorted it out.

Ribol

11,995 posts

288 months

Sunday 23rd July 2006
quotequote all
5yearstobuyatvr said:
Ihave checked rubber spacers ok, removed both switches, passenger side clunking ok, drivers side no clunking,but wiring seems to be ok, faulty contact?
Might be the switch, just take it out and short the wires and see if that makes any difference.

5yearstobuyatvr

Original Poster:

788 posts

249 months

Monday 24th July 2006
quotequote all
Update,Managed to lock the doors whilst sitting in car with the green button, set off in car and went over a bump in the road, and green light went out and knocked off door locks, the green button is not working ,effectively.Still unable to lock car from remote.

Cider Andy

1,889 posts

255 months

Monday 24th July 2006
quotequote all
Have you sorted out the switch on the offside (the one that didn't set off a solenoid when you pressed it)? If the switches are not working properly, the doors won't lock remotely (they won't attempt to lock if the central locking system thinks the doors are open).

5yearstobuyatvr

Original Poster:

788 posts

249 months

Monday 24th July 2006
quotequote all
Hi Andy.No I havent,I just dont know where to start.Havent seen you around the A1/M1 link since we spotted one another in the early springtime.Also checked for power across the 2 terminals on drivers switch,seems to be dead.

Edited by 5yearstobuyatvr on Monday 24th July 15:53

Cider Andy

1,889 posts

255 months

Monday 24th July 2006
quotequote all
Ah, you've been looking in the wrong places! Or at least the wrong times. I've done a couple of 1350 mile trips without being spotted and without spotting another TVR.

Ok, here's what to do, assuming the switch is like mine (both cars are a similar age, so we're in with a fighting chance.

1. Remove the door switch from the sill, it's secured by one Phillips screw.
2. Pull the Lucar spade connectors off the switch (you don't need to mark up which went where).
3. Hold the plunger in on the switch, it should be spring loaded. You'll notice that each Lucar connector is a copper blade that ends in a point (obscured with the switch in its normal position). You'll also notice a copper ring that these two points rest against when the switch is in its normal position.
4. Clean the two spades (both pointed ends and Lucar connector ends) and the ring with fine emery paper or a small warding file or similar.
5. If necessary, clean the Lucar connectors on the ends of the wires.
6. Smear petroleum jelly on all the copper parts.
7. Reconnect the wires and refit the switch.

Whilst the switch is disconnected, touch the wires together, you should hear a solenoid in the door post. When you've fettled the switch as above you should hear the same solenoid upon releasing the switch plunger after first pressing it.

5yearstobuyatvr

Original Poster:

788 posts

249 months

Monday 24th July 2006
quotequote all
THANKS VERY MUCH! will try tommorrow and let you know the result.Does the green light stay on when the doors have been locked by the remote and car immobilised?

Ribol

11,995 posts

288 months

Monday 24th July 2006
quotequote all
5yearstobuyatvr said:
Does the green light stay on when the doors have been locked by the remote and car immobilised?
The green light only comes on when you lock the doors from the inside with ignition on - nothing to do with alarm/imob. It just confirms that both doors are locked.

Cider Andy

1,889 posts

255 months

Tuesday 25th July 2006
quotequote all
Perhaps your central locking system's a bit different from mine John. If my doors and boot are properly closed, locking the car remotely there are two flashes of the indicators. Unlocking remotely there's one long flash.

If I leave a door or the boot open when locking remotely, there are still two flashes, but four beeps as well. The doors remain unlocked, but the system is still in 'locked' mode: I have to unlock remotely (one flash), close the door (or boot) properly, then the system's back to normal.

5yearstobuyatvr

Original Poster:

788 posts

249 months

Tuesday 25th July 2006
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Goodafternoon,Well Andy,I have Followed your instructions to the book regarding cleaning of the copper bits,to be honest they looked clean and bright to start with,with the switch disconnected i touched the wires and they are as dead as a dodo. fitted switch back. no joy.

5yearstobuyatvr

Original Poster:

788 posts

249 months

Tuesday 25th July 2006
quotequote all
PS my cental locking is a Meta system Factory fitted it flashes 4 times when locking doors etc not twice like yours, however everything else seems the same.

Edited by 5yearstobuyatvr on Tuesday 1st August 20:31

5yearstobuyatvr

Original Poster:

788 posts

249 months

Tuesday 1st August 2006
quotequote all
DOORS NOW LOCKING !! With the help of Mobile Music of Harrogate,they are excellent on Tvrs. It was contaminated wiring associated with the interior light / door switch circuit. £32 plus vat Excellent service did it whilst i waited.

Cider Andy

1,889 posts

255 months

Tuesday 1st August 2006
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Good news, John. I'd had another look at the wiring, expecting it to appear in the 'B' pillar by the driver's door catch, but it doesn't! At least it's fixed now.

5yearstobuyatvr

Original Poster:

788 posts

249 months

Tuesday 1st August 2006
quotequote all
Thanks for that Andy.You are well clued up on these Chimaeras,now looking forward to Brittany next week with doors that lock.

Cider Andy

1,889 posts

255 months

Tuesday 1st August 2006
quotequote all
Ah, Brittany eh? Whereabouts are you going to? It just happens that I'm off to Lower Normandy tomorrow morning for a couple of days, not far from the border with Brittany. I've a few things in the boot, though, so it will be roof on all the way.