Door Solenoid going nuts - are they all the same in there?

[jellison]

Have had a look and can see the one that is going Nuts (intermittant loud buzzing - very embarrising and getting really annoying now). If I order a new one (TVRCarparts presumably? - unless it is off something? and easy / cheaper elsewhere?). Do I just say door solenoid (or do I need a picture to show which one (something like 3 or 4 mounted on a plastic board)?

[tvrolet]

IIRC there are 2 types - '2-wire' and '3-wire'. The mountings and shape are the same so either will 'fit'. I've not heard of a TVR using the 3rd wire, so a 2-wire loom will run a 2- or 3- wire solenoid, you just ignore the 3rd wire out of the solenoid. I gather the 3rd wire is to push the bar thingy back to its 'parked' position under power. As the spring in the door lock (or boot lock) mechanism returns the solenoid which itself has a light spring inside to return, there's no need to power it back to a parked position. However, if you do have a 3-wire unit and indeed all 3 wires are wired up, then obviously a 2-wire unit won't do. Apart from that, AFAIK they're all the same.

BUT, if you're getting the buzzing sound when you're not pressing the door/boot release then I guess it's more likely to be something other than the solenoid as the solenoid shouldn't be getting any current at all unless a switch is being pressed.

[jellison]

Buzzing only when door button activated - happen more often than not now.

[Seasider]

Ask in the LS Forum



Sorry Jon no idea

[jellison]

Bit primitive thos Griffs!

[M@H]

If the door close indicator switch is playing up (the one on the closing sill face that gets corroded if water gets into the sill) then all sorts of things can happen with the door electrics.. just an idle thought

[jellison]

have sprayed loads of wd40 and switch cleaner in both side - think it is a knackered solenoid - pic tonite an order an other from TVR carparts.

[dean_ratpac]

do you guys have an RS component list of the parts before you go to resellers?

[theaxe]

You can get them from Maplin for under ten pounds each (part ids: YD79L or YD78K depending on 2 or 5 wire version).

There's a guide to replacing door solenoids here.

Edited by theaxe on Monday 24th July 19:09

[suffolkfox]

£4.50 + £2.95 p&p ebay

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-Wire-Slave-Do

There are various 2, 3 & 5 wire ones on there, check the dimensions and wires but took approx 5 minutes to fit on my Cerb
SF

[jellison]

Many thanks all - no more bloody buzzing by the weekend hopefully!

[Ricko]

My passenger one was the same fixed it at the weekend with the maplin part £8-9 ish. be careful to get the right number of wire version. Mine is a 99 griff and it was a 5 wire version. you will need to cut the trailing wires from the new one to length then add the connector form the old one. soldering is the best option but if not you will need some female bullet connectors to go onto the new leads. Its bliss now i have no trapped animals in the bodywork.

[theaxe]

Interesting, I found that the connectors that came with the maplin solenoid were the same as the old unit so it was a straight swap.

[jellison]

Maplin do not sell the locking 5 wire on anymore.

Went to TVRCarparts and works out a nice deal.

[ricko]

bought my solenoid on sat from Maplin Barnsley they still had some in stock after I left.

[jellison]

The chap in there "Technical dept" said - oooo no we don't do the 5 wires anymore!

Only a few quid more from my fav supplier!

[jellison]

Be aware that the new 5 wire solenoid I got had a rod 5 - 7mm longer thsn the one that came off so would not line up with the 3 bolt hole and still be the locked position - took a while to suss it! Had to shorten the steel rod - ben it so the upper bend was 5 - 7mm shorter then all fine.

Next on list for monday, oil pressure which packed in and offside top ball joint split.

Beat paying someone to do it though!