Discussion
Hi, as i'm new...and know nothing!
I picked up my '90 Vette yesterday, but had a couple of issues on the journey home.
The temp guage (dealer did mention it was problamatic) starts off ok, then after 20 mins or so goes mental. It dances around wildly, then buries itself past the red zone. The car is not overheating at all..?? Do you guys think dodgy sensor/pickup/guage? If i hit a bump it jiggles some more...and then goes back to being buried past the hatch red zone.
Also, the engine ticks over at 1200rpm(ish) which i think is to high. Is this simle to adjust.
Sorry, one other thing. Whilst stuck in slow traffic, the car stalled twice. It happened both times whilst stationary, but still in 'D' So i had to put in 'N' quite quickly if stationary for to long.
Other than that...what a car! Toys all work, sounds awesome, totally different to my TVR. It's a real low quality sound.
The roofs stowed in the boot, and i can't wait to get home and play.
I picked up my '90 Vette yesterday, but had a couple of issues on the journey home.
The temp guage (dealer did mention it was problamatic) starts off ok, then after 20 mins or so goes mental. It dances around wildly, then buries itself past the red zone. The car is not overheating at all..?? Do you guys think dodgy sensor/pickup/guage? If i hit a bump it jiggles some more...and then goes back to being buried past the hatch red zone.
Also, the engine ticks over at 1200rpm(ish) which i think is to high. Is this simle to adjust.
Sorry, one other thing. Whilst stuck in slow traffic, the car stalled twice. It happened both times whilst stationary, but still in 'D' So i had to put in 'N' quite quickly if stationary for to long.
Other than that...what a car! Toys all work, sounds awesome, totally different to my TVR. It's a real low quality sound.
The roofs stowed in the boot, and i can't wait to get home and play.
Find the sensor as it sounds like you may have a loose connection that may be earthing. 1200rpm sounds a little high but you should check the idle speed in D as the engine has to take the load. If it's stalling in traffic, I'd check all the usual stuff like clean air filter and so forth and check the integrity of all vacuum pipes and connectors on the gearbox. However, I'm no expert on this sort of thing.
Idle speed - should be 900 rpm in neutral/park and about 700rpm when in drive/reverse. It absolutely should not stall at any point on an auto.
These are figures for a warm engine, when it is cold it is permissable it will go up to circa 1200 rpm when in neutral.
There are a few adjustments to properly set up the idle system on these, to achieve the correct throttle stop position and then to achieve the correct TPS (throttle position switch) setting on the throttle body.
In the main idle is controlled by the computer, however it can only do this if the above are set up correctly AND there are no vacuum leaks AND there is no problem with the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve. These tend to get gummed up over time and can be cleaned.
I spent ages trying to sort a very similar problem on my Mum's '87, chased few quite a few probs until it was finally diagnosed as a faulty computer (wasn't as expensive as you'd think to replace) - the otehr things to try are easy adjustments/checks. Detailled okay in the Haynes manual, if you haven't a copy let me know and I'll try and post a few more instructions.
Glad you like it!
These are figures for a warm engine, when it is cold it is permissable it will go up to circa 1200 rpm when in neutral.
There are a few adjustments to properly set up the idle system on these, to achieve the correct throttle stop position and then to achieve the correct TPS (throttle position switch) setting on the throttle body.
In the main idle is controlled by the computer, however it can only do this if the above are set up correctly AND there are no vacuum leaks AND there is no problem with the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve. These tend to get gummed up over time and can be cleaned.
I spent ages trying to sort a very similar problem on my Mum's '87, chased few quite a few probs until it was finally diagnosed as a faulty computer (wasn't as expensive as you'd think to replace) - the otehr things to try are easy adjustments/checks. Detailled okay in the Haynes manual, if you haven't a copy let me know and I'll try and post a few more instructions.
Glad you like it!
Thanks guys, really appreciate your replies.
I was hoping for a simple fix for the fast tickover via a turn screw..or something. I don't have a Haynes (but do want one). I have the original handbook, but that's more do's & dont's rather than how to fix things...!
I will be having a proper play tomorrow.
Which reminds me, i also need to drain off some transmission fluid as it's well over the max/min hatch markings on the dipstick. It's perfectly clean, just overfilled.
ps: Any other Vette forums worth checking out??
Found this, which seems good.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/index
I was hoping for a simple fix for the fast tickover via a turn screw..or something. I don't have a Haynes (but do want one). I have the original handbook, but that's more do's & dont's rather than how to fix things...!
I will be having a proper play tomorrow.
Which reminds me, i also need to drain off some transmission fluid as it's well over the max/min hatch markings on the dipstick. It's perfectly clean, just overfilled.
ps: Any other Vette forums worth checking out??
Found this, which seems good.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/index
Edited by waynester on Thursday 10th August 14:42
Your best bet (if Lus1fer's advice doesn't show the right level) is to syphon it from the dipstick tube, there isn't a drain plug in the box, if you need to remove the fluid you have to remove the whole pan.
Those adjustments I described earlier are quite easy - you just need the procedure.
Still willing to post some of it, but to get the invaluable manual, it's about £18 and can be ordered through Halfords, if you can get past the tents and barbecues they are stocking in favour of anything car related...
Those adjustments I described earlier are quite easy - you just need the procedure.
Still willing to post some of it, but to get the invaluable manual, it's about £18 and can be ordered through Halfords, if you can get past the tents and barbecues they are stocking in favour of anything car related...
franv8 said:
Your best bet (if Lus1fer's advice doesn't show the right level) is to syphon it from the dipstick tube, there isn't a drain plug in the box, if you need to remove the fluid you have to remove the whole pan.
Those adjustments I described earlier are quite easy - you just need the procedure.
Still willing to post some of it, but to get the invaluable manual, it's about £18 and can be ordered through Halfords, if you can get past the tents and barbecues they are stocking in favour of anything car related...
Those adjustments I described earlier are quite easy - you just need the procedure.
Still willing to post some of it, but to get the invaluable manual, it's about £18 and can be ordered through Halfords, if you can get past the tents and barbecues they are stocking in favour of anything car related...
Aahh....I measured it engine off,
I'll give it another go. Also ordered the manual...thanks for your help so far.
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