Is 15W/50 synthetic sufficient for my ZZ4 ?
Discussion
Hi Roger
If you have been using mineral oil up to now then it is not a good idea to change to synthetic. Your engine will smoke due to the thinner nature of synthetic. As for the amount that all depends on the sump your using. Your dipstick should have been marked when the engine was built.
If you want to go from mineral to semi-synthetic then I would recommend Millers 20-50 semi synthetic. Or stay with mineral like Valvoline 20-50.
Regards Dave
www.v8yes.co.uk
If you have been using mineral oil up to now then it is not a good idea to change to synthetic. Your engine will smoke due to the thinner nature of synthetic. As for the amount that all depends on the sump your using. Your dipstick should have been marked when the engine was built.
If you want to go from mineral to semi-synthetic then I would recommend Millers 20-50 semi synthetic. Or stay with mineral like Valvoline 20-50.
Regards Dave
www.v8yes.co.uk
I have been running with Duckhams 20/50, since fitting my new intake manifold this year I have been loosing loads from the front and back, where the manifold meets the block.
I have been thinking of switching back to a slightly thinner oil, like that suggested by AS such as a 15/40, does any one else use that grade (on a SBC engine)?
I think a thinner oil will drain back to the sump quicker rather than building up in the V under the intake manifold.
I have been thinking of switching back to a slightly thinner oil, like that suggested by AS such as a 15/40, does any one else use that grade (on a SBC engine)?
I think a thinner oil will drain back to the sump quicker rather than building up in the V under the intake manifold.
What about going from synthetic (mobil 1 15/50) to mineral (valvoline racing 20/50) ?
This likely to have any adverse affects ?
Maybe it will prevent the tiny puff of thin smoke visible from the exhaust during a high rev gearchange ? If indeed this is due to the thin synthetic oil.
Maybe the thicker oil will be more likely to stay 'up' in the engine and thus reduce oil available to the pump during hard cornering ????
This likely to have any adverse affects ?
Maybe it will prevent the tiny puff of thin smoke visible from the exhaust during a high rev gearchange ? If indeed this is due to the thin synthetic oil.
Maybe the thicker oil will be more likely to stay 'up' in the engine and thus reduce oil available to the pump during hard cornering ????
I think you will find that film strength or higher viscosity is what you may need need as opposed to changing from synthetic to mineral, it may be worth considering a semi-synthetic. On it's own I would not be to fussed about a small puff of smoke between changes and you are only mindful of the situation because modern engines don't (as a rule) use any oil but remember, this motor has it's roots in 1950's design, and although materials have come a long way since then, the basic design has not (if the motor is fairly standard).
I would be inclined to stick with a semi synthetic if not synthetic as it is technically superior to any mineral oil but does have drawbacks with the motors that we use if not only making the engine nosier because it is the nature of the lubricant to be lighter but perform better under similar conditions.
Yes, I am 'the' Wayne and that is indeed my motor that you witnessed on PH TV. Clive has dubbed it the GTR 650 but it is in fact a GTW 434. GT'W' because it is mine and '434' because that is the cubic capacity of the motor. The engine was built by Peter Knight in Daventry and makes 650hp,..............can't wait to give her a blast!
Yes, I am 'the' Wayne and that is indeed my motor that you witnessed on PH TV. Clive has dubbed it the GTR 650 but it is in fact a GTW 434. GT'W' because it is mine and '434' because that is the cubic capacity of the motor. The engine was built by Peter Knight in Daventry and makes 650hp,..............can't wait to give her a blast!
I smell the whiff of a few old wive's tails here......
Sythetic oil will only make an engine smoke if it has not been run in on mineral oil first. In some cases, running synthetic from the word go will make no difference either, but the risk of not bedding the rings in is higher.
We have found running the engine on Straight mineral 30 weight or Joe Gibbs Racing running in oil works best. Once the engine is off the dyno, synthetic is fine. Again some companies make oil specifically for V8's, Joe Gibbs being one example. We have seen excellent results in racing with both Mobil 1 & Millers synthetics.
If sythetic oil made engines smoke, the UK would have a serious smog problem, as most vehicles now use synthetic....
Some oil consumption is normal on V8 engines with forged pistons, and some ring types use more oil also. Oil seems to be a bit of a 'whipping boy' for other engine problems, but is rarely the root cause of consumption.
Sythetic oil will only make an engine smoke if it has not been run in on mineral oil first. In some cases, running synthetic from the word go will make no difference either, but the risk of not bedding the rings in is higher.
We have found running the engine on Straight mineral 30 weight or Joe Gibbs Racing running in oil works best. Once the engine is off the dyno, synthetic is fine. Again some companies make oil specifically for V8's, Joe Gibbs being one example. We have seen excellent results in racing with both Mobil 1 & Millers synthetics.
If sythetic oil made engines smoke, the UK would have a serious smog problem, as most vehicles now use synthetic....
Some oil consumption is normal on V8 engines with forged pistons, and some ring types use more oil also. Oil seems to be a bit of a 'whipping boy' for other engine problems, but is rarely the root cause of consumption.
pb3 said:
I have been running with Duckhams 20/50, since fitting my new intake manifold this year I have been loosing loads from the front and back, where the manifold meets the block.
I have been thinking of switching back to a slightly thinner oil, like that suggested by AS such as a 15/40, does any one else use that grade (on a SBC engine)?
I think a thinner oil will drain back to the sump quicker rather than building up in the V under the intake manifold.
I have been thinking of switching back to a slightly thinner oil, like that suggested by AS such as a 15/40, does any one else use that grade (on a SBC engine)?
I think a thinner oil will drain back to the sump quicker rather than building up in the V under the intake manifold.
Your manifold isn't sealed properly.
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