Help...how do you measure...?
Discussion
the brake disc height or the hub size without taking the discs off ? or can't you?
If the discs were removed from the car and layed flat ,would the inboard side of the disc lay flat on the floor? If it does can I safely presume that I can measure from the back of the disc (engine side ) to the front of the hub( mating face to wheel )and this should be my disc height.?Or is there any relevance if I measure the distance across the external hub? ( to give me hub size ).Measurements taken from my '99 Griff
Disc height ( as measured above )54 mm suggesting I need GD150
External hub measurement 150ish mm perhaps suggesting that internal hub
measurement is 146mm meaning I need TGD146
Are hubs measured internally or externally (I,m presuming internal measurement is used!)
Taken from EBC Direct.....
Price
(Ex VAT) Price
(Incl VAT)
Front hub disc
size height
V 4 260 146 58 24 22 D216 £24.90 £29.26
EBC Standard Brake Disc (One piece, 2 discs per car)
V 4 260 150 53 24 22 D150 £34.54 £40.59
EBC Standard Brake Disc (One piece, 2 discs per car)
V 4 260 150 53 24 22 GD150 £65.92 £77.46
Turbo Groove Brake Disc (One piece, 2 discs per car)
V 4 260 146 58 24 22 TGD216 £58.40 £68.62
Turbo Groove Brake Disc (One piece, 2 discs per car)
Rear
V 4 273 164 43 20 18 D558 £34.95 £41.07
EBC Standard Brake Disc (One piece, 2 discs per car)
V 4 273 164 43 20 18 GD558 £65.92 £77.46
Turbo Groove Brake Disc (One piece
Perhaps someone who is not so stupid as me ( shouldn't be too hard ) could enlighten me so I can order the correct discs first time around.
Many Thanks
Scorcher
If the discs were removed from the car and layed flat ,would the inboard side of the disc lay flat on the floor? If it does can I safely presume that I can measure from the back of the disc (engine side ) to the front of the hub( mating face to wheel )and this should be my disc height.?Or is there any relevance if I measure the distance across the external hub? ( to give me hub size ).Measurements taken from my '99 Griff
Disc height ( as measured above )54 mm suggesting I need GD150
External hub measurement 150ish mm perhaps suggesting that internal hub
measurement is 146mm meaning I need TGD146
Are hubs measured internally or externally (I,m presuming internal measurement is used!)
Taken from EBC Direct.....
Price
(Ex VAT) Price
(Incl VAT)
Front hub disc
size height
V 4 260 146 58 24 22 D216 £24.90 £29.26
EBC Standard Brake Disc (One piece, 2 discs per car)
V 4 260 150 53 24 22 D150 £34.54 £40.59
EBC Standard Brake Disc (One piece, 2 discs per car)
V 4 260 150 53 24 22 GD150 £65.92 £77.46
Turbo Groove Brake Disc (One piece, 2 discs per car)
V 4 260 146 58 24 22 TGD216 £58.40 £68.62
Turbo Groove Brake Disc (One piece, 2 discs per car)
Rear
V 4 273 164 43 20 18 D558 £34.95 £41.07
EBC Standard Brake Disc (One piece, 2 discs per car)
V 4 273 164 43 20 18 GD558 £65.92 £77.46
Turbo Groove Brake Disc (One piece
Perhaps someone who is not so stupid as me ( shouldn't be too hard ) could enlighten me so I can order the correct discs first time around.
Many Thanks
Scorcher
The back is flat.
The critical distance you need to measure is the distance from the back face of the disc to the back face of the mounting flange (i.e. the surface that is in contact with the hub). You have to take the disc off the car to measure this. You can't measure if from the front face of the mounting flange because the thickness of the flange is unknown and varies.
You also need to know the dimensions of the hub mounting flange (not just the PCD) because there are several variations.
The critical distance you need to measure is the distance from the back face of the disc to the back face of the mounting flange (i.e. the surface that is in contact with the hub). You have to take the disc off the car to measure this. You can't measure if from the front face of the mounting flange because the thickness of the flange is unknown and varies.
You also need to know the dimensions of the hub mounting flange (not just the PCD) because there are several variations.
Hi Just fitted EBC cross drilled and grooved turbo discs to my 97 griff 500 the height is 55 mm I fitted red stuff ceramic pads to the front and green stufffast road pads to the rear what a difference the car stands on its nose quite frightening really , should have done it years ago.
steve
ps they look great on the car as well, I kept the original cosworth calipers but did overhaul all the pistons with new seals not an easy job.
steve
ps they look great on the car as well, I kept the original cosworth calipers but did overhaul all the pistons with new seals not an easy job.
tgriff said:
should have done it years ago.
Yes, but my advice is to avoid drilled discs like the plague. If you need the drillings then the brakes are getting hot enough to be vulnerable to the catastrophic failures that these can cause - and if you don't need them, they're just causing more noise, pad wear and dust and making the brakes less effective.
If you need ventilation then grooved discs are the way to go - and no more than 6-8 grooves per side.
GreenV8S said:
tgriff said:
should have done it years ago.
Yes, but my advice is to avoid drilled discs like the plague. If you need the drillings then the brakes are getting hot enough to be vulnerable to the catastrophic failures that these can cause - and if you don't need them, they're just causing more noise, pad wear and dust and making the brakes less effective.
If you need ventilation then grooved discs are the way to go - and no more than 6-8 grooves per side.
I'd agree, if you can't go for a VERY expensive set (or just don't wish too) then a solid or dimpled type is definately preferable. holes are prone to fracture and breakage so the best quality is required to make them reliable.
(the best quality is the way to go anyway...use a GOOD name, EBC aint got one!)
IMHO AND EXPERIENCE
andy
tvrmonster
Guillotine said:
GreenV8S said:
tgriff said:
should have done it years ago.
Yes, but my advice is to avoid drilled discs like the plague. If you need the drillings then the brakes are getting hot enough to be vulnerable to the catastrophic failures that these can cause - and if you don't need them, they're just causing more noise, pad wear and dust and making the brakes less effective.
If you need ventilation then grooved discs are the way to go - and no more than 6-8 grooves per side.
I'd agree, if you can't go for a VERY expensive set (or just don't wish too) then a solid or dimpled type is definately preferable. holes are prone to fracture and breakage so the best quality is required to make them reliable.
(the best quality is the way to go anyway...use a GOOD name, EBC aint got one!)
IMHO AND EXPERIENCE
andy
tvrmonster
Andy, are you still using the AP setup from the Spider conversion?
Hi Dave
yes, and they are drilled/grooved...
...but they are second only to brembo in quality. I'll go for solid next time, when they wear out, tho i've had no real probs (minor warp which i had skimmed off) but then mine work quite hard!
i agree with pete (greenV8s) from experience.
andy
yes, and they are drilled/grooved...
...but they are second only to brembo in quality. I'll go for solid next time, when they wear out, tho i've had no real probs (minor warp which i had skimmed off) but then mine work quite hard!
i agree with pete (greenV8s) from experience.
andy
Hummm, a bit unfair to say EBC don't have a good name because that simply is not true.
The discs sold for the Griff are vented and thicker to compensate for the cross drilling and grooving.
The material used is first class and the zinc finish stops rust forming on the hubs and on the braking surfaces if the cars are left for a long time , which they frenquently are.
Their supplied pads are excellent , I like the red stuff ceramic but green stuff fast road pads are more than adaquete.
To purchase 4 pot calipers is a complete waste of money unless you intend to race the car, even then the EBC discs and pads along with the standard cosworth calipers give just as good performance as set ups that will cost you in excess of 1200 pounds.
About the only comment you got right is that the noise levels are higher with the drilled discs but what the hell we drive griffs not the quietest of cars
Steve
The discs sold for the Griff are vented and thicker to compensate for the cross drilling and grooving.
The material used is first class and the zinc finish stops rust forming on the hubs and on the braking surfaces if the cars are left for a long time , which they frenquently are.
Their supplied pads are excellent , I like the red stuff ceramic but green stuff fast road pads are more than adaquete.
To purchase 4 pot calipers is a complete waste of money unless you intend to race the car, even then the EBC discs and pads along with the standard cosworth calipers give just as good performance as set ups that will cost you in excess of 1200 pounds.
About the only comment you got right is that the noise levels are higher with the drilled discs but what the hell we drive griffs not the quietest of cars
Steve
tgriff said:
To purchase 4 pot calipers is a complete waste of money unless you intend to race the car
I'm glad you're happy with yours, but drilled discs are just bad, m'kay? The only 'drilled' discs I would be happy to use are very expensive ones with the holes cast in. And those still suffer from the noise, dust and wear problems. There's no reason to spend silly money on those though, ordinary grooved discs degas the pads just as well for a fraction of the price without the terrible dangers of drilled discs.
Good 4-pot calipers provide a more even distribution of force on the back of the pad and reduce pad flex, leading to more consistent pedal feel. You don't strictly need them, there's nothing particularly wrong with the standard calipers, but there are peformance advantages to fitting better calipers and bigger discs. Whether it's a waste of money is very subjective, and I wouldn't presume to make that judgement for other people.
According to the EBC website .....EBC provide slotted and part drilled sport rotors for many import cars. The advantages of a slot on the brake rotor is it helps to prevent pads from glazing and to brake down the surface gasses which are generated under heavy braking on sport use i.e. track day, autocross or fast road use. The part drilled holes also add to the surface de-gassing. Many customers ask why our holes are only part drilled through the rotor, the answer is that because all original equipment rotors including EBC’s are what we call “straight vaned” in other words, the ventilation slots go directly from the outside towards the centre of the disc as they are not “scoop vented” there is absolutely no point in through drilling the disc. Scoop vented rotors require through drilled holes so that the air scooped into the centre core of the rotor can vent out through the holes. If through drilling is done on standard straight vane rotors it often results in an imbalance of the rotor, can weaken the structure and promote cracking of the rotor, that is why we don’t “through drill” at EBC. ( so they dont do drilled discs as tgriff suggests )
They also only state two 'heights' for the Griffith...53mm and 58mm.No mention of 55!
And according to the man at EBC the 'height'is measured thus...."if you lay the disc flat on the floor and measure to the highest point this will give you the height".
So if the back of the disc is flat I can measure from the back of the disc to front of the hub ( the face that the wheel bolts onto )and this should either measure 53mm or 58mm giving the info I need to order the correct disc without removing the disc from the car.
They also only state two 'heights' for the Griffith...53mm and 58mm.No mention of 55!
And according to the man at EBC the 'height'is measured thus...."if you lay the disc flat on the floor and measure to the highest point this will give you the height".
So if the back of the disc is flat I can measure from the back of the disc to front of the hub ( the face that the wheel bolts onto )and this should either measure 53mm or 58mm giving the info I need to order the correct disc without removing the disc from the car.
Guillotine said:
GreenV8S said:
tgriff said:
should have done it years ago.
Yes, but my advice is to avoid drilled discs like the plague. If you need the drillings then the brakes are getting hot enough to be vulnerable to the catastrophic failures that these can cause - and if you don't need them, they're just causing more noise, pad wear and dust and making the brakes less effective.
If you need ventilation then grooved discs are the way to go - and no more than 6-8 grooves per side.
I'd agree, if you can't go for a VERY expensive set (or just don't wish too) then a solid or dimpled type is definately preferable. holes are prone to fracture and breakage so the best quality is required to make them reliable.
(the best quality is the way to go anyway...use a GOOD name, EBC aint got one!)
IMHO AND EXPERIENCE
andy
tvrmonster
I've found these EBC very good so far & if i recall a phone conversation i had with a renowned tvr monster man he said they sounded the bollox ( and was going to sort out some ducting pics for me
) I think Andy & Pete are against cheaper drilled disc as am i ... (not sure about Andy's final comment though
will have to get him out in my car )... EBC Disc & Redstuff thread
All EBC.....
(What it said on the bill)
Front
GD150 Front Disc's £98.72 Sierra
Red Stuff pads DP3605/2C £38.50 RS turbo
Rear
GD558 Rear Disc's £91.82 Cossie 4x4
Red Stuff pads DP3617c £36.17 Sierra Cossie
Delivery £7.66
+ Dreaded, Total £320.62
All from www.performance-tuning.co.uk
sales@proven-products.co.uk
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