Pop up light issue.....

[gwood]

does anyone know where to get the rods that attach to the motor which lifts the light pods, mine has strangely vanished. turned the lights on last night and only one popped up.

Edited by gwood on Saturday 19th August 16:24

I fixed the topic issue - MikeB

Edited by mikeb on Saturday 19th August 16:40

Edited by gwood on Saturday 19th August 17:04

[l33]

I believe the motor and linkage is all TR7 (but I could be wrong).
If anyone can confirm, you should be able to get from "Rimmer Bros".
L33.

[gwood]

i went to a local tr7 breakers who said the motor is a tr7 but the linkage is pobally tvr, he didnt know but thanks for the reply

[s.hogan3]

i had a word with steve heath a short time back when i was looking for a new one for my car a he said that if i sent him my old one he would try and make me 2 new ones hope this helps you out

[shpub]

I sold mine on some time ago and don't have an original to copy so if anyone can lend me one or a picture with the appropriate dimensions, I can make them up.

[jchase]

You mean like this:

[pic]http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l18 [/pic]

[jchase]

let me try that again

[pic] http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l18 [/pic]

[jchase]

grrrrrr stoopit picture embedding...why innit working then?

[jchase]

okay, last time



-yay!

[silverback mike]

I can see it Jim...

[shpub]

That's great. All I now need is the diameter of the rod ends so I can make sure that they match. That is the diameter of the hole where the bolt and crank go through. I would guess it is imperial and not metric.

[dickymint]

shpub said:

That's great. All I now need is the diameter of the rod ends so I can make sure that they match. That is the diameter of the hole where the bolt and crank go through. I would guess it is imperial and not metric.

Don't forget the bent plate that attatches to the motor Steve - the slotted hole wears like buggery

[jchase]

The adjusty nuts are 17mm and 15mm - not imperial IMHO (9/16 spanner didn't fit). You'll have to wait till thursday before I can measure anything, as that is when I plan to do the N/S pod bracket. What would be really usefull is a source for the crank arm with the square slot in (in picture), as both mine are worn giving slack in the pod. Rimmers don't sell them, and they are not part of the motor assembly, and the used ones I got off ebay had suffered the same fate. You can get away with squeezing them a bit in a vice to reduce the play , but it is still there.

-Jim

[shpub]

It is the diameter of the holes through the rod ends that I need. That is the diameter of the hole that takes the bolt that attaches to the pod itself and the diamter of the hole that has the crank bolted to it. If you can tell me how much offset the crank has, I'm sure I can machine something.

[wedg1e]

jchase said:

The adjusty nuts are 17mm and 15mm - not imperial IMHO (9/16 spanner didn't fit). You'll have to wait till thursday before I can measure anything, as that is when I plan to do the N/S pod bracket. What would be really usefull is a source for the crank arm with the square slot in (in picture), as both mine are worn giving slack in the pod. Rimmers don't sell them, and they are not part of the motor assembly, and the used ones I got off ebay had suffered the same fate. You can get away with squeezing them a bit in a vice to reduce the play , but it is still there.

-Jim

Weld 'em up, file 'em out?

[jchase]

Yep, BTDT. The weld is too soft, needs to be heat treated, which is beyond my rather modest tool collection.

-Jim

[honourablepickle]

jchase - you can harden small stuff at home with a blow lamp and soldering flux - as long as you can get the part cherry red then dunk it quick in the flux and it'll harden pretty good - not trying to teach granny here just passing on info

[jchase]

OOOoo Sounds like a good trick if it works, I bet the flux stinks a bit though.

-jim

[honourablepickle]

yep it smells awful - best not to do it in the kitchen - does work though - i have a pot of flux from about 1950 with instructions written on the lid for hardening otherwise i'd never have thought of it

[dickymint]

I would quench the metal using cold water, then re-heat to a blue colour and leave to cool naturally on a cold surface (tempering). This depends on the carbon content of the steel. If the carbon content is low then you would need to case-harden it by adding additional carbon, crushed charcoal would do it.
Maybe quenching it in your pot of solder flux contains stuff that "cyanides" the metal which is similar to case hardening.