Chim 400 power upgrade - most bhp per £?
Discussion
Sorry if this has done before, as I'm sure it has, and if so please feel free to direct me to the relevant thread!
With the birth of my daughter, the eviction of my tenant and running 2 properties it is apparent that the Tuscan 2 (or dare I say it, F355) will have to wait. Therefore I'm interested in getting more power from the 400. I'm reluctant to swap my 100% reliable 400 for an unknown 500, and before anyone suggests sorting out the handling before the power, it's a fair point but I spend 95% of my driving time on motorways at the moment. As for brakes, I don't intend on doing higher speeds than now, just getting to those speeds quicker.
So what's the most cash efficient upgrade - Mark Adams (£700, IIRC?) or something else? The taraka upgrade is a little pricey at the moment, especially after £4,400 servicing costs this year and an urgently needed respray pending..
cheers!
With the birth of my daughter, the eviction of my tenant and running 2 properties it is apparent that the Tuscan 2 (or dare I say it, F355) will have to wait. Therefore I'm interested in getting more power from the 400. I'm reluctant to swap my 100% reliable 400 for an unknown 500, and before anyone suggests sorting out the handling before the power, it's a fair point but I spend 95% of my driving time on motorways at the moment. As for brakes, I don't intend on doing higher speeds than now, just getting to those speeds quicker.
So what's the most cash efficient upgrade - Mark Adams (£700, IIRC?) or something else? The taraka upgrade is a little pricey at the moment, especially after £4,400 servicing costs this year and an urgently needed respray pending..
cheers!
Ha!
I actually far prefer the Chim to the Griff looks wise, else I would have bought a Griff in the 1st place!
Could of course get a Chim 500 but as mine as been perfectly reliable I'm loathe to get rid of it.. also with the paintwork in its current condition I'd have trouble selling it.
Anyone know of a rolling road either in N. London or E. Dorset?
I actually far prefer the Chim to the Griff looks wise, else I would have bought a Griff in the 1st place!
Could of course get a Chim 500 but as mine as been perfectly reliable I'm loathe to get rid of it.. also with the paintwork in its current condition I'd have trouble selling it.
Anyone know of a rolling road either in N. London or E. Dorset?
My thoughts would be to put in a different cam, in whatever flavour you prefer (say £500 all in), bulleted valve guides (about £250 with a full head rebuild) and an uprated chip (£100ish depending on where you go). You should be able to get somewhere in the region of factory quoted figures from your engine from that.
Regards
Iain
Regards
Iain
chassis 33 said:
My thoughts would be to put in a different cam, in whatever flavour you prefer (say £500 all in), bulleted valve guides (about £250 with a full head rebuild) and an uprated chip (£100ish depending on where you go). You should be able to get somewhere in the region of factory quoted figures from your engine from that.
Regards
Iain
Regards
Iain
If you've got to do all that to get the quoted figures, what does an unmodified 400 normally put out?
Anywhere between 195 and 215 is pretty normal for a standard 4l Chim.
I've said this a few times recently, so apologies to those who have heard it before, my race car is a 4l serpentine engine, running a Typhoon cam, bulleted valve guides, CRE uprated ECU, 22mm shortened trumpets and the maximum I've had out of that on the rollers is 245hp.
I could probably get another 5-10hp by insulating the trumpet base, using a smooth bore elbow from AFM to plenum etc.
Regards
Iain
I've said this a few times recently, so apologies to those who have heard it before, my race car is a 4l serpentine engine, running a Typhoon cam, bulleted valve guides, CRE uprated ECU, 22mm shortened trumpets and the maximum I've had out of that on the rollers is 245hp.
I could probably get another 5-10hp by insulating the trumpet base, using a smooth bore elbow from AFM to plenum etc.
Regards
Iain
Buy a 4.6 from the scrappies, lots around that have had a mild fire under bonnet, due to LPG gone wrong. Then throw a cam in. Bought my engine for £700 ( 2001 motor 43K.). I got a bit carried away with big valves, big plenum, lightened flywheel, higher comp pistons, cut down trumpets, de pre cat, but 296/313bhp depending on which dyno chart you want to believe, sold the old engine for £700, so it cost me circa £1200.
I seem to of put the cat amongst the pigeons on this one, sorry, and I'll post this on the other thread too, to avoid any confusions.
There are generic chips about, Mark Adams has the Tornado, there's the TVR Power chip, etc etc that effectively improve fueling on a generic basis and the £100 was what i was told would be the rough cost if i was to go that route, now whether that was to me as Joe Public or to me as a racing driver in the paddock, I don't know, I can only report what I was told.
At the end of the day a chip costs pennies to re-produce, what you are paying for is the development of the software in the first place, and knowing the effort these guys go to it's no mean feat to do the development work. Also a generic chip is always going to be a compromise between cost and performance, if you want ultimate performance you have to go for a full RR setup.
Regards
Iain
There are generic chips about, Mark Adams has the Tornado, there's the TVR Power chip, etc etc that effectively improve fueling on a generic basis and the £100 was what i was told would be the rough cost if i was to go that route, now whether that was to me as Joe Public or to me as a racing driver in the paddock, I don't know, I can only report what I was told.
At the end of the day a chip costs pennies to re-produce, what you are paying for is the development of the software in the first place, and knowing the effort these guys go to it's no mean feat to do the development work. Also a generic chip is always going to be a compromise between cost and performance, if you want ultimate performance you have to go for a full RR setup.
Regards
Iain
trackcar said:
How the heck did you manage to spend over 4k this year on servicing?
Motorway driving isn't exactly taxing on suspension and brakes and general stuff now is it?
I can't be the only person thinking the best upgrade you could do is find a different service agent?
Motorway driving isn't exactly taxing on suspension and brakes and general stuff now is it?
I can't be the only person thinking the best upgrade you could do is find a different service agent?
£3k earlier this year was for 36k service plus (and this is most of the cost) from memory: new balljoints, new driveshaft gaiters, new track rod ends, new discs and pads all round, new radiator, contaminated brake fluid replaced, wheel re-alignment, 3 modwise kits fitted, PAS fluid leak fixed, rear light cluster refitted and sealed due to fogging, roof bars adjusted to give tighter fit. Maybe more stuff that I don't remember!
42k service has come around quicker than normal (usually 1 service per year) due to a 3000 mile driving holiday in Italy. Cost is £763 for the service (inc. labour, VAT and consumables) plus £781 for new clutch, 5hrs labour and VAT. Less 10% discount = £1,390
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