Air Flow Meter Adjustment
Discussion
Hi Guys,
Got a new(ish) air flow meter off a landrover and need to fit and adjust it to the chimaera.
Once I've got into the car to fit it (thats another story) I will need to adjust it to the correct co2 setting for the 4.0.
Whats the best method of doing this, I understand I will need to use a multimeter?
Mitch
Got a new(ish) air flow meter off a landrover and need to fit and adjust it to the chimaera.
Once I've got into the car to fit it (thats another story) I will need to adjust it to the correct co2 setting for the 4.0.
Whats the best method of doing this, I understand I will need to use a multimeter?
Mitch
It's been a popular subject recently, there's a thread here www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t=297835 if you follow the instructions on the RPi site you won't be a million miles out.
The only way to set things 'properly' is on a RR with a lambda probe up the exhaust.
Regards
Iain
The only way to set things 'properly' is on a RR with a lambda probe up the exhaust.
Regards
Iain
I've fiddled around with the CO2 timer a few times with a new and the old AFM. Because my car is running lean apparantly. The new and old one had CO2 voltage readings a approx 2.5 V at idle. I adjusted to the recommended 1.8V from RPI site and I cannot tell the difference apart from the POP and Bangs dissappeared on over run. So susspect RPI site may have the Volage a little low if you like your POPS and BANGS.
Penno
Penno
Be carefull with your pops and bangs, its unburnt fuel igniting in the exhuast, when it should be producing power in the cylinder head. From memory I think this means the mixture is so lean that when it ignites, it does not fully burn (ie the flame front goes out) so the remaining vapour ends up in the exhaust...but I could be wrong. Anyway whatever you must not do to your engine is run it lean, as it causes the combustion temperature to go up (less cooling fuel) and causes micro hot spots that takes chunks out of your pistons like a spot welder. Not healty.
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