Discussion
I know its been done to death but can't find a search for it. Mix with white spirit to thin and apply but what ratio? And best way to clean chassis first, just rinse?
Try a search using "Waxoyl" instead. As to cleaning the chassis I'd try getting it carefully steam cleaned (requirement for MOT in Northern Ireland btw).
If you lived in Northern Ireland I'd suggest going to my brothers place, (where I got my Rallye steam cleaned underneath and fully waxoyled :-) but as you are not I won't.
If I manage to speak to the brother before your question on the white spirit ratio is answered in here, I'll ask him.
HTH
All the instuctions are on the tin , if you need to thin it after heating it they recommend 10%. Clean all the loose stuff off with a wire brush, and use a scaper to get rid of all the loose powder coat, I have just spent the W/E doing mine and used Hammerite first on any parts of exposed metal.When I bought the can I also bought a spray attachment wich makes the job easier .
Good luck, you know its worth it !
Guy
Good luck, you know its worth it !
Guy
Cheers for the replies
I have the spray bit but if its thin enough will try a pressurised weed spray thingy.
I have the tin but it's burried in the mound of things that have warped in from nowhere when we moved last. I might add its an application on an existing coating of waxoyl (see, got the spilling this time
)
I have the spray bit but if its thin enough will try a pressurised weed spray thingy.
I have the tin but it's burried in the mound of things that have warped in from nowhere when we moved last. I might add its an application on an existing coating of waxoyl (see, got the spilling this time
)Tip it into a paint can & brush it on where you can. where you have to spray, thin with 20% white spirit, and keep a fan heater directed straight onto the can to keep it liquid.
On the subject of hammerite. I found on my old kit car(had it for 20yrs) that it tended to hide rust bubbles, and that the best preserved parts were the steel items that had been unpainted and kept covered in waxoyl.So scrape the loose off and just waxoyl regularly.
On the subject of hammerite. I found on my old kit car(had it for 20yrs) that it tended to hide rust bubbles, and that the best preserved parts were the steel items that had been unpainted and kept covered in waxoyl.So scrape the loose off and just waxoyl regularly.
Well, what an afternoon. As the tin I have is a good several years old I bought a new one that comes with a pump and spray. Pressurise the can and spray away. Not fun. No time to stop as it thickened in the pipe, kept finding loose stuff even though I thought I had been over that area and due to a steep drive it was done in a small garage so no room to manouver. And on axle stands. So, Nigel your way with the brush next time, but better access is required. pretty sure I got most of the hidden bits and the old coating is still quite thick over most of it. Outriggers were well dry, pebble dashed off probably.
PS the black Waxoyl is easy to see where it has been applied, chassis, exhaust, brakes, axle stand, jack, me, the floor, more me
Yes I did clean the brakes and kept the can in a bucket of hot water.
PS the black Waxoyl is easy to see where it has been applied, chassis, exhaust, brakes, axle stand, jack, me, the floor, more me
Yes I did clean the brakes and kept the can in a bucket of hot water.
schueymcfee said: So which appears to work best, the black stuff or the clear stuff? Or are they just as good as each other?
Don't confuse 'Underseal' with Waxoyl. 'Waxoyl' is a fairly thin product well suited to box sections and less high impact areas. It comes in black and clear preparations. Hammerite sell it in yellow cans called 'Waxoyl'
'Underseal' is thick, bitumy and well suited to high impact areas. However, it will mask problems if applied to thickly (and it is a bugger to apply at the best of times!!). Hammerite sell it in black tins called 'Underseal' and state on the tin 'with added Waxoyl'.
Do it properly (preparation etc.) and apply Underseal and you shouldn't have to do it very often. Waxoyl (the product) needs doing at least annually and more often if possible and necessary.
Best way to apply both products is with an air compressor and schutz gun. The hand kit Hammerite produce is good for 30 seconds and then clags up!! It's more efficient (and not much more money) to buy a bunch of aerosol's!!
The best way to apply waxoil is with a paint brush, one of the ones your missis promised to clean after a repainting the living room a diffeant colour that looked exactly the same. Brush it in after heating it up, and then chuck the brush away. This seams to have worked for me but i think its a good idea to treat any rust first with that locktight stuff that turns rust blue. You cant do this after as it would not penatrate the oil in the waxoil.
montegogt said: Black Waxoyl makes good low lights if you have grey hair....
Getting it cut out this afternoon
I bought the pressurised spray applicator wich worked fine if you don't stop. Big problem wriggling under a car on axle stands. Next time its with a brush.
And I bought an aerosol can of it for the missed bits and it worked fine for that.
Thinking back, a greater hieght to the car is needed.
Although the pressure sprayer worked the draw back was shuffling around under the car giving the stuff in the pipe a chance to cool down and thicken. I hade kept the can in hot water for over an hour (changing the water as the can cooled it) and that was well liquid, no problem there. Also in a bucket of hot water whilst in use. Access problem is also why I missed loose stuff and had to deal with that which ment the stuff in the pipe cooling again.
>> Edited by jmorgan on Thursday 6th March 13:43
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