Clutch Seized

[stargate]

I am afraid I am guilty of not having driven my 350i at all this year only to find that the clutch has now seized. I have been told various tricks and tips of how to handle this without stripping the clutch down but would love to have some advice for you guys who may have had a similar experience?

Edited by stargate on Sunday 3rd September 12:14

[mikeb]

Drain and bleed the hydraulic clutch cylinders first just to ensure that it ain't that before you get serious spanners out.

MikeyB

[honourablepickle]

you've probably tried this already but getting the engine nice and warm sometimes helps
in desperation i've freed clutches off in the past by finding a steep hill with a long road attached and push starting the car in third then just driving along whilst dipping the clutch as you go
as mike says make sure it is really stuck first and the hydraulics haven't just packed up
good luck

[gsx600]

In my youth, we towed a Hillman hunter with my 3.0l Capri along a private track, got to about 20 mph and then gracefully shove her in a gear, this would then free the clucth, brake the tow rope and cause genral amusment for one and all watching
Never learnt as we had to do it about 3 times ,as the owner kept going abroad and leaving it to sieze. I think it rotted away in the end

[castorcamber]

heres another which saved me several thousand on the price of a lotus.

Charge the battery up, Put the car in first, start the car on the starter which will make you move as you are in gear, then holding the clutch down, jump on the brakes, this uses the power of the engine to break the connection to the gearbox.

I have used it many times and usually works.

I turned up to look at the car and the dejected owner saws "listen since I advertised the car the clutch has stuck now". After much re-negotiation the price was corrected and then used the above process and drove the car onto the trailer

[stargate]

Thanks for the advice guys-this confirms some of the things I had been told but did not want to try anything until I had some other advice. Cheers

[TVRleigh]

Don't know if this would work but sounds a simula format to the above, but with out taking the car of the drive / Garage.
Put the rear on axiel stands, start it in gear get some rev's going and then press the cluch and then stamp on the breaks.

Don't know though if this would knock the car of the stands.

I have heard of people having somthing done by dealers, but was told they did not want to see what they was doing, and ignor the loud noise. I know it did not take long.

I would like to know the best soloution as my car been off the road for a few years now.

[grady]

I jacking up the rear of a MGB and did the same and it popped the clutch lose on the first try. Worked perfectly thereafter. It's the momentum that builds in the rear wheels spinning along at 40-50 MPH in 4th gear.

The concept WAS a bit scary as I was nose-up to my garage wall.

Of course the MG had a solid axle, so you would want to be careful about where you lifted the rear up.

[convert]

Had a similar problem on the spitfire.
Tried the jack it up, rev the nads of it and dump the jack routine - SFA happened.

Tried warm soapy water - zilch.

Decided to take the box out, got the pax seat out, and the
tunnel removed, and noticed that there was a hell of a lot of play in the release lever. Turns out the bushes had gone, and the fulcrum pin had dropped.

Dropped in a 7mm allen key and hey presto it worked.

£4 for the bits from Rimmers and 20 minutes work ensured it didn't go again.

Don't know if the Wedge setup is the same though.