Central Locking
Discussion
Hi, just got home from work and the car wont lock. Checked the door switches, un-plugged and reconnected all the connectors by the solenoids to no avail. When operating the alarm I can hear nothing attempting to operate. If I sit in the car and operate the central locking the unit in the dash gives a timed buzz followed by a similar buzz on opening either door. I tend to think that it could be a bad earth or poor supply. Have read threads and will check out their suggestions (disconnecting the battery, checking the linkage and directly supplying the soleniods) tomorrow when its light.If in the meantime anyone knows where the C/Locking relay is earthed and supplied from or better still has a wiring diagram or sketch of this circuit it would be very much appreciated.
Last week my key fob decided it was no longer worthy of opening the doors, 300quid later we are all good again!
Cat 1 toad alarm went on and I can recommend it. I've never heard a car alarm as loud as mine now, its a tad embarrassing if it goes off though!
Does your key fob say GT on it?
Cat 1 toad alarm went on and I can recommend it. I've never heard a car alarm as loud as mine now, its a tad embarrassing if it goes off though!
Does your key fob say GT on it?
Tried the fuses and disconnecting the battery still the same. If I try the central locking all I get is a buzzing noise and if I use the alarm fob nothing at all. Thinking now about taking the dash apart to expose central locking relay and alarm wiring so that I can understand how they are interconnected. Just reading up on it in the Bible.
Edited by monkey boy on Tuesday 5th September 17:56
Having removed the dash and stared in disbelief at all the wiring I checked all the connections to umpteen modules to no avail. I returned to the lock solenoids and started to note wiring colours checking again the connectors etc. With daylight failing I decided to put the toy away and study some haynes manuals to get an idea as to how central locking works. On moving the car it started working again!!! Don't know whether to cry or thank my lucky stars? (Having seen how many cables go to the C/ Locking module I think the later.)
Does the buzzing come from behind either/both of the doors. Could just be a dodgy solenoid.
See this Chimaera Pages article.
Hope this helps.
See this Chimaera Pages article.
Hope this helps.
Unfortunately the worst type of problem to fix is an intermittent one, if you are lucky it will never surface again.
The actual way the central locking works(electrics wise) is no worse than any other car. There are two solenoids on each side inside the panel above where the seat belts are mounted. One locks/unlocks, the other just pops the door open when it is unlocked, like pulling the lever on the inside of a normal car door.
If your problem is only a locking/unlocking problem then you have taken one of the two solenoids out of the equation straight away. With any solenoid operated central locking there is usually a relay that sends/reverses a supply to the solenoids on both sides. The alarm module will provide a timed pulse to the relay to make it happen, one for lock one for unlock. When you open the door from inside the car it is done with cables, not electrics. So, as you can see its not very complicated. HTH
The actual way the central locking works(electrics wise) is no worse than any other car. There are two solenoids on each side inside the panel above where the seat belts are mounted. One locks/unlocks, the other just pops the door open when it is unlocked, like pulling the lever on the inside of a normal car door.
If your problem is only a locking/unlocking problem then you have taken one of the two solenoids out of the equation straight away. With any solenoid operated central locking there is usually a relay that sends/reverses a supply to the solenoids on both sides. The alarm module will provide a timed pulse to the relay to make it happen, one for lock one for unlock. When you open the door from inside the car it is done with cables, not electrics. So, as you can see its not very complicated. HTH
Considering there are only two doors I've got 20 wires going to the central locking module. This was where the buzz originated from giving me the idea that there was a volt drop from either a bad connection or overload. This coupled with all the other modules I've encountered in my travels makes establishing a wiring diagram very difficult. I'm now studying other car maunuals to understand the system better.
monkey boy said:
Considering there are only two doors I've got 20 wires going to the central locking module. This was where the buzz originated from giving me the idea that there was a volt drop from either a bad connection or overload. This coupled with all the other modules I've encountered in my travels makes establishing a wiring diagram very difficult. I'm now studying other car maunuals to understand the system better.
That sounds more like the actual alarm module, is it the first module starting from the left of the dash?
There isn't another car that I know of(other than another TVR) that uses this method of door opening/locking. The system used is a cross between a strange Cat1 alarm installation and half an aftermarket central locking installation.
Solved the problem. The item marked "central locking module" has about 20 wires going to it and looks like its some form of low spec alarm. On inspection between the two banks of three relays is a 10 Amp 20mm glass fuse. This item did not look blown but on checking with a meter and tapping the item it was going open circuit. Replaced the item and all is back working 100%.
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