I'm Looking to buy a Chimaera. Is PAS needed ?
Discussion
Hello Everyone. This is my first post. I'm Looking to buy a used Chimaera (max £15k). I see there are quit a few without power steering (PAS).
Is the Chimaera very heavy on the steering without PAS ? I kind of think it might be with a large V8 between the front wheels.
Also it the HC version worth going for & does the higher compression ratio mean it needs the dearer high octane petrol ?
Is the Chimaera very heavy on the steering without PAS ? I kind of think it might be with a large V8 between the front wheels.
Also it the HC version worth going for & does the higher compression ratio mean it needs the dearer high octane petrol ?
Probably best to judge whether you prefer PAS by test driving a few cars. The engine is a long way back in the bay and the driver's seat is only just in front t of the rear wheels, net result: pretty even front/back weight distribution. Steering weight comes more from wide tyres. If you're using the car every day and expect to have to street-park it, personally I'd go for power steering. It's still pretty heavy at low speed. Alot of people say no PAS is no problem and they feel improves driving at speed. Others including racers reckon the ability to put lock on more quickly is a positive benefit of PAS. Each to their own.
400HC ... apparently there aren't many real ones around. Probably best route to more power is a bigger engine. If you can get a real one, bit of rarity value, why not?
Most people seem to run their cars on super-unleaded or Shell Optimax. The latter is particularly well thought of and genuinely does seem to keep the injectors cleaner.
Your budget seems relaistic for a private purchase. There are lots of cars for sale at the moment. Take your time, don't rush it!
As always, highly recommend getting hold of Steve Heath's Griff and Chim bible. Mine of useful information for someone looking to buy a Chimaera.
400HC ... apparently there aren't many real ones around. Probably best route to more power is a bigger engine. If you can get a real one, bit of rarity value, why not?
Most people seem to run their cars on super-unleaded or Shell Optimax. The latter is particularly well thought of and genuinely does seem to keep the injectors cleaner.
Your budget seems relaistic for a private purchase. There are lots of cars for sale at the moment. Take your time, don't rush it!
As always, highly recommend getting hold of Steve Heath's Griff and Chim bible. Mine of useful information for someone looking to buy a Chimaera.
About a month ago I would of said you'll need power steering, my 400 doesn't have PAS, sure its light enough on sweeping A roads but at parking speeds and in tight turns its bloody heavy. However after saying that I've had cause to replace my other car with something that doesn't have power steering either so now my forearms are getting a light workout every day and 'm beginning to find the Chimaera feels lighter. SoI guess I'm not really sure. See if you can try both but I would tend to lean towards NON PAS.
As for your other question about HC and high octane fuel, as far as I'm aware all should be run on 98 octance petrol, I know some may get away with plain old unleaded but personally I would recomend the higher octane anyhow. Its better for the engine and you may even get a sligtly better MPG (I know we're not susposed to worry about that but it helps when you have to pay quite so much more for it)
As for your other question about HC and high octane fuel, as far as I'm aware all should be run on 98 octance petrol, I know some may get away with plain old unleaded but personally I would recomend the higher octane anyhow. Its better for the engine and you may even get a sligtly better MPG (I know we're not susposed to worry about that but it helps when you have to pay quite so much more for it)
Thanks guys. I didn't expect so many promp replies.
So I need 98 octane & to determine the need for PAS I need to try either & see which suits me I guess.
I don't quite understand the "Not many real HC's around". Surely if the car is branded HC by TVR, then it's an HC ? The extra 45 horses must be worth having I would think.
So I need 98 octane & to determine the need for PAS I need to try either & see which suits me I guess.
I don't quite understand the "Not many real HC's around". Surely if the car is branded HC by TVR, then it's an HC ? The extra 45 horses must be worth having I would think.
Mmmm, must have a rare one then - cos I have a HC and PAS! The HC does have 'slightly' more power than a 4.0 standard lump - though its only a little as was shown at Duxford last year! Mines been tuned to cope with 95 octane with no problem and I have had no pinking at all... but she flies on 98!!! 
As for PAS - I wanted a car that I can drive anywhere without worrying about parking etc. Also wanted to have a car that the wife can drive - and it would get tiresome without.... BUT you will loose some feel on handling and the rack is sharper lock to lock. This does lead to some interesting moments at speed when attempting to light a cigarette - which I wont be reproducing in a hurry
Try them - actually quite different and dont listen to us lot. Get to a dealer or indie and get them tried out. Get the one that best suits....
Cheers,
Paul
As for PAS - I wanted a car that I can drive anywhere without worrying about parking etc. Also wanted to have a car that the wife can drive - and it would get tiresome without.... BUT you will loose some feel on handling and the rack is sharper lock to lock. This does lead to some interesting moments at speed when attempting to light a cigarette - which I wont be reproducing in a hurry
Try them - actually quite different and dont listen to us lot. Get to a dealer or indie and get them tried out. Get the one that best suits....
Cheers,
Paul
The insurance group is the same for all Chims - group 20 
so there should be no difference on the engine size.
Both engines are an awful lot of fun - I tried a 4 litre and could not stop grinning for a week, and then tried a 5 litre and haven't stopped grinning since. Try them all, drive as many as you can, you will find one that you love.
The fuel consumption depends very much how you drive it. I have a 5 litre averaging about 230 miles to a tank. Some of the 4 litre drivers can get 280+ (and some only 150
).
OTT - never
so there should be no difference on the engine size. Both engines are an awful lot of fun - I tried a 4 litre and could not stop grinning for a week, and then tried a 5 litre and haven't stopped grinning since. Try them all, drive as many as you can, you will find one that you love.
The fuel consumption depends very much how you drive it. I have a 5 litre averaging about 230 miles to a tank. Some of the 4 litre drivers can get 280+ (and some only 150
). OTT - never
Robin,
I Agree with Boiler's comments. I had a 1995 4L with pas and now have a 2000 5L also with pas. The 5L is quicker, is a bit less fuel efficient, as for insurance both are Gp20 the 5L premium was only a little higher.
The factor which most effects the number of miles to the tank is the drivers right foot!
George
I Agree with Boiler's comments. I had a 1995 4L with pas and now have a 2000 5L also with pas. The 5L is quicker, is a bit less fuel efficient, as for insurance both are Gp20 the 5L premium was only a little higher.
The factor which most effects the number of miles to the tank is the drivers right foot!
George
The HC is NOT a high compression version of the engine but has a different cam basically. All the engines need super but some can be adjusted to run on regular - see the unleaded FAQ on my website for gory details.
There is also a Chimaera buyer's guide there as well.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
There is also a Chimaera buyer's guide there as well.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
PAS is nice to have and I believe you should go for it if possible. From a steering performance point of view, there are slightly less turns lock to lock on a PAS car, which will improve your steering speed during OTT manoeuvers (you'll be wanting to practice these after not too long!).
More important to get right is the engine size. Many people end up trading in their 4 ltrs to buy a 5 ltr. If you think this might be you, then plan ahead....
). More important to get right is the engine size. Many people end up trading in their 4 ltrs to buy a 5 ltr. If you think this might be you, then plan ahead....
Robin Pearce said: OCouple of questions about the 5.0 vs the 4.0.
Has anyone tried the 5.0 as well as the 4.0 that I guess you all have.
Is the 5.0 significantly more fun or is it OTT along with pressumably lower MPG ?
Is the 5.0 a higher insurance grioup than the 4.0 ?
I owned a 4L before my present 5L. Frankly on public roads there is very little difference--track days are another matter. The insurance is slightly higher and the running costs also.
4L is plenty for the road. how much experience do you have of rear-wheel drive?
if you are not a newcomer to it then a 5L would be fine, one i drove didn't grunble when in traffic, so anything you hear about that would seem to be the car.
drive some and find out what a proper one feels like and then you'll know what you want. you do need to make some comparisons.
PS not required IMO, but then i don't have it, so i guess i wouldn't see it as essential! feedback is very good without it, but then i have had the car for a while now, and i can feel more now than i would have when i first got it.
mind you i did ache from elbow to elbow across my front for a week or so after i got it.....
does wonders for upper body strength!
it does encourage you to look after the tyres as you will find it difficult to wind the wheel around on the spot.
less is better for the size of the bills i would suggest, both on the PS side as making for a less complicated car, and 5L if only because of the increased cost of bits.
all IMO. whatever you buy you'll have a ball, all the best.
if you are not a newcomer to it then a 5L would be fine, one i drove didn't grunble when in traffic, so anything you hear about that would seem to be the car.
drive some and find out what a proper one feels like and then you'll know what you want. you do need to make some comparisons.
PS not required IMO, but then i don't have it, so i guess i wouldn't see it as essential! feedback is very good without it, but then i have had the car for a while now, and i can feel more now than i would have when i first got it.
mind you i did ache from elbow to elbow across my front for a week or so after i got it.....
does wonders for upper body strength!
it does encourage you to look after the tyres as you will find it difficult to wind the wheel around on the spot.
less is better for the size of the bills i would suggest, both on the PS side as making for a less complicated car, and 5L if only because of the increased cost of bits.
all IMO. whatever you buy you'll have a ball, all the best.
manek said: I'd say you might as well have it. It doesn't detract from feel or handling, and it makes parking and low-speed manouevring easier. Plus, it might add a few quid to the resale value. Why not?
Whilst talking through some figures with my local dealer recently, he reckoned that my car would be worth a £1,000 more if had PAS.
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff