Discussion
Hi Chaps!
I've got some problems with my S2. It`s been off the road for the last three months having some cosmetic work done in the engine bay. Yesterday I managed to get all the bits back together and she fired up. BUT, she seems to be idling a little lumpy, though seems ok all the way up the rev range. Also, and I don`t know if this is related in any way, when you rev the engine the revs seem to slowly creep back to idle instead of returning straight to idle as she used to do before I started taking bits off. Also, I appear to have lost my water temperature gauge. The resistance of the temperature sensor goes down as the temperature goes up so that seems to be working ok.
I know I`ve put everything back how it was before so I`m a bit lost as to why I have these problems. Hope some of you guys can help.
Roy.
I've got some problems with my S2. It`s been off the road for the last three months having some cosmetic work done in the engine bay. Yesterday I managed to get all the bits back together and she fired up. BUT, she seems to be idling a little lumpy, though seems ok all the way up the rev range. Also, and I don`t know if this is related in any way, when you rev the engine the revs seem to slowly creep back to idle instead of returning straight to idle as she used to do before I started taking bits off. Also, I appear to have lost my water temperature gauge. The resistance of the temperature sensor goes down as the temperature goes up so that seems to be working ok.
I know I`ve put everything back how it was before so I`m a bit lost as to why I have these problems. Hope some of you guys can help.
Roy.
had a similar problem with mine last year,turned out to be the throttle pot.same rough idling,almost cutting out on mine.i also had problems with a sticky throttle at the engine end,quick spray with the old w.d.40 and it was ok.this was causing the engine to race at idle but it slowly returned to normal revs,more so after cruising,hope this helps,cheers.
The throttle is moving pretty freely so I know that it`s not sticking causing the revs to stay high. The rough idling is a bit like that - it does sometimes sound like it might stall. What I don`t quite understand though is that my rev counter doesn`t fluctuate at all just stays at a steady 500ish revs just as it was before the engine was touched.
Roy.
Roy.
shnozz said: Roy - mine has always done that. When first started and cold it will be around 900 - 1000 and then reduces to 500 when warm.
500rpm is very slow (if the gauge is correct). It should idle at about 850-1000 rpm when warm. Cold starting idle (increased by the air bypass valve) is around 1400+ rpm.
I suspect my (third) thottle pot is on the way out, as it seems to be overfuelling (not returning to idle quickly) on decelleration.
roy_allen said: Thats one of the problems on mine, that it seems to take ages to return to idle. Is that a classic sign of dodgy throttle pot then?
Difficult to say, as they're pesky little bu**ers.
I think it may be lack of use on mine. I think I need to clean up the t-pots contacts, take off the air bypass valve and clean it, and then give it a damn good thrashing
(between Gatsos)!
funbobby said: mines a bit slow to return to idle what is the throttle pot and is it straight forward to change?
It's the small black box on the end of the throttle spindle that tells the ECU how much welly you're giving the pedal, so it can work out the optimum (!) settings.
It's physically easy to change, but Ford changed the wiring a few years ago (to improve reliability). If your connectors are gold it's a straight swop. If not, you need the new Ford wiring (they swopped some of the wires over to stop you plugging the new tp into the old wiring).
>> Edited by roy c on Wednesday 5th March 16:05
roy c said
It's the small black box on the end of the throttle spindle that tells the ECU how much welly you're giving the pedal, so it can work out the optimum (!) settings.
It's physically easy to change, but Ford changed the wiring a few years ago (to improve reliability). If your connectors are gold it's a straight swop. If not, you need the new Ford wiring (they swopped some of the wires over to stop you plugging the new tp into the old wiring).
>> Edited by roy c on Wednesday 5th March 16:05
This throttle pot wiring thing is intriguing. I replaced mine a couple of weeks ago. Gave the local ford dealer the part no.s for the gold pot and loom from the S parts list and it drew a blank. They said they new which part it was anyway, as it was quite popular, and ordered me one. The new one was identical to the old one except for it had gold connectors, but no new wiring. The original wiring on the car clipped straight in. As it had been running crap, it had spent the previous few days with the pot disconnected. I didn't notice much of a difference between running with it disconnected and with the new pot fitted to be honest. This raises a couple of questions;
a) Should it have a new wiring loom fitted, as I expected it to? Would the difference in the gold and original wiring looms mean that the pot actually isn't doing anything at the moment.
b) Is it fine and you don't need the gold loom?
Andy
andyf007 said:This throttle pot wiring thing is intriguing.
I have a more colourful word for it!
When I last replaced the Throttle Potentiometer (aka Throttle Position Sensor) in Feb 1998, I went to the Ford Parts dealer and asked for the part for a 1990 Granada V6. I was given Motorcraft p/n 6854780, but their stock control system threw out a warning that a new wiring assembly (p/n 5028499) was required as the wiring had changed also now had gold connectors.
The two outside wires were swapped over due to a design change. The original set-up if left as per wiring diagram tells the ECU that the throttle is in the fully open position.
More info:
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=8163&f=11&h=0
>> Edited by roy c on Tuesday 11th March 09:45
I've fixed the problem with the engine not returning to idle. It was (as I suspected) down to dirt in the vane air flow meters.
To clean them, remove the front inner wing & air filter and start the engine. Spray carb/injector cleaner spray on to the vanes in each meter (the engine will gag slightly - it's just like cleaning carbs). It helps to use a mirror so you can see what you're doing (it saves taking the bonnet off!).
To clean them, remove the front inner wing & air filter and start the engine. Spray carb/injector cleaner spray on to the vanes in each meter (the engine will gag slightly - it's just like cleaning carbs). It helps to use a mirror so you can see what you're doing (it saves taking the bonnet off!).
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