Toothed Wheel gap (propshaft)
Discussion
Morning Chaps, I think that this has been answered before but the search function seems to object to finding anything with 'diff' or 'speedo' in it.My speedo has been bouncing around now since i stripped the diff, off, to replace the bushes last winter.it seems ok when i ease off the accelerater or below forty, but then it goes past 100 virtually straight away (No lead shoes involved).i tried looking at it last night and it appears that the sensor has been in contact with the toothed wheel on the prop so i've backed it off a bit but to no avail, is the sensor kna$%£&&*d now or are they quite robust, has anyone got any gap settings as the bible has nothing about it? Cheers Bhpjon
A good technique is to put a piece if thin card between the sensor and the wheel, and then position the sensor so it is lightly touching the card. When you put the card out this leaves an air gap of around 0.5mm which is about right. It's also a good idea to put a single thin layer of insulating tape over the end of the sensor. This doesn't affect the sensor's operation but means you can see whether the sensor has been clouting the wheel before the sensor itself gets wrecked.
I posted my speeedo woes some tima ago.
The answer to your question is in this thread. www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=13&t=189131
The answer to your question is in this thread. www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=13&t=189131
this may not be your problem,but while your under there try to move the prop flange/rotor area up & down if there is excess movement then your diffs front bearing as collapsed or is knackered,possibly why the sensor as chipped face,this will have to be rectified 1st,i dont mean to frighten you but it is a possibility,this happens quite often with cars that have ABS and knackered wheel bearings,the same fault can be applied on the chims diff input flange/stator area.but of course this isnt your problem i hope.
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