Discussion
I am looking at buying an M3 evo within the next few weeks, and having never owned a BMW before wonder what to look out for. I have read all the posts regarding the vanos problems, and assume that the best advise is to get a decent warranty with the car. Are there any other specific problems to look out for with these cars?
I am after a convertible version (no abuse please),and note that Idepenant Car Company seem to have a great selection but at a high price, as i live in cheshire is it worth me travelling to their place??Does anyone have any experience of them? They seem to want around £21-22k for a 97-98 cars, all with about 50-60k on theclock, is this a little pricey??
Any helpful tips and advise would be greatly appreciated, before i take the plunge and buy my first M car.
Many thanks
SBC
I am after a convertible version (no abuse please),and note that Idepenant Car Company seem to have a great selection but at a high price, as i live in cheshire is it worth me travelling to their place??Does anyone have any experience of them? They seem to want around £21-22k for a 97-98 cars, all with about 50-60k on theclock, is this a little pricey??
Any helpful tips and advise would be greatly appreciated, before i take the plunge and buy my first M car.
Many thanks
SBC
Seems rather pricey to me - as this is rather a quiet forum try www.bm3w.co.uk - sorry Ted, but it is a useful site!
Also try the Yahoo Group E36MPOWER at groups.yahoo.com
Covers a lot of the technical side of the vehicle,
Apologies to Ted once more.
£20-22k is a little pricey more like 18-19k at the moment. Watch out as there is a lot of crap out there. This was the most produced M vehicle so you will have lots of choice. At 50-60k you will have to consider the rear track control arm bushes (BMW job as they have thr correct tool), Clutch, obviously Vanos bolts.
Take the time to be picky, if its got no BMW warranty or suspect service history, walk away.
BTW My Vanos bolts broke and were replaced under warranty, however the car went another 3k and a Vanos fault was revealed during an oil service. The fault code showed inlet cam timing fault and Vanos unit fault. BMW reset the inlet timing (mechanical alignment 4hrs labour) which then revealed that the Vanos unit was not damaged but the advance/retard gear was worn hence the Vanos noise at idle. This was replaced on both inlet and exhaust at a cost of £1600
not warranted as this was wear and tear.
Happy Days.
Covers a lot of the technical side of the vehicle,
Apologies to Ted once more.
£20-22k is a little pricey more like 18-19k at the moment. Watch out as there is a lot of crap out there. This was the most produced M vehicle so you will have lots of choice. At 50-60k you will have to consider the rear track control arm bushes (BMW job as they have thr correct tool), Clutch, obviously Vanos bolts.
Take the time to be picky, if its got no BMW warranty or suspect service history, walk away.
BTW My Vanos bolts broke and were replaced under warranty, however the car went another 3k and a Vanos fault was revealed during an oil service. The fault code showed inlet cam timing fault and Vanos unit fault. BMW reset the inlet timing (mechanical alignment 4hrs labour) which then revealed that the Vanos unit was not damaged but the advance/retard gear was worn hence the Vanos noise at idle. This was replaced on both inlet and exhaust at a cost of £1600
not warranted as this was wear and tear.
Happy Days.
Hi there,
I just purchased a '96 M3 Evo Convertable two weeks ago from a guy in Cheadle. I paid £14,400 for it. It had 92K miles on it with full BMWSH and hard top. The car is great!
I would strongly advise getting one with a factory hard top, as it gives the car a much more rigid feel, reduces the scuttle shake considerably and reduces the exterior and wind noise during motorway driving.
I just purchased a '96 M3 Evo Convertable two weeks ago from a guy in Cheadle. I paid £14,400 for it. It had 92K miles on it with full BMWSH and hard top. The car is great!
I would strongly advise getting one with a factory hard top, as it gives the car a much more rigid feel, reduces the scuttle shake considerably and reduces the exterior and wind noise during motorway driving.The hard top is easy to put on and take off. All you do is put the soft top down, then place the hard top on.
The hard top has four locating spikes (two at the rear and two at the front). You just line the spikes up with the hole that are on the car as standard. You then full down the two levers at the back and twist the lever at the front and hey presto... job done.
You do need two people to do the job as you need to line up the spikes.
The hard tops come with heated rear screen and interiour lites like the coupe.
The hard top has four locating spikes (two at the rear and two at the front). You just line the spikes up with the hole that are on the car as standard. You then full down the two levers at the back and twist the lever at the front and hey presto... job done.
You do need two people to do the job as you need to line up the spikes.
The hard tops come with heated rear screen and interiour lites like the coupe.
Thank you all very much for the helpfull replies.
I am off the look at a 98 R Evo convertible with 50k on the clock at a local garage, it is up for £18k. I will let you know what a think after the weekend.
Thanks to the tips given , i at least now have an idea what to look out for.
Thanks again.
I am off the look at a 98 R Evo convertible with 50k on the clock at a local garage, it is up for £18k. I will let you know what a think after the weekend.
Thanks to the tips given , i at least now have an idea what to look out for.
Thanks again.
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