snaped the throttle caple
Discussion
After having my new toy for 4 days. First problem red light on dash came on. while i was driving up to scotland in the rain. Pulled in to the service station lose fan ballet was the trouble. 1 min fix. then she was good as gold all the way there and all the way back home. Until last night. Went down the pub. and what a stir it cause. every one want a go in it. So after about 10 trips around the town. time to go home. went to pull off on a dual carriage way. No power foot went to the floor. Had a look at the engine. found the cable snaped. hopping this is a 2 min job. car still in warrnty. so they sending me one in the post. but after the fun she gave me so far. She allowed to play up a bit. but not to mush. Finger cross.
Make sure the cable is aligned with the pedal where it comes through the bulkhead, or the new one won't last long either. I suggest you ask them to sell you a spare to just so you don't end up stranded if/when it happens again. Make sure the pedal isn't adjusted too high as thins kinks the cable and leads to premature failure. Consider fitting a throttle stop.
useful tip.
getting the throttle cable collar out of the pedal can be a bugger and sometimes they are held in with glue of varnish. I remove the pedal pivot and drop it down to get access to the top of the pedal arm, then use a flat blade screwdriver in the split to release it.
Tie a peice of flex to this end of the old cable and draw it back through into the engine bay. Now tie the end of the flex to the new cable and draw it back through to the footwell. (the cable has to follow a peculiar path around the brake servo/reservior so this makes it a quick easy job,, works best with flex tho, not string).
I have done 3 cables this way and you don't need to take the inspection cover off to do it so no mastic etc. job done in about 14 mins once you have reset the throttle position and cable tension.
Oh, another tip which has saved me removing the skin off my hands when trying to remove the split pin from the plenim end, is to undo the the hex bolts the hold this linkage to the end of the plenum chamber, the you can lift it up and get full access to the split pin and linkage. when i did my first cable i tried to remove the split pin with it in position and the pliers slipped off and i ended up with 3 stitches in the back of my hand.
getting the throttle cable collar out of the pedal can be a bugger and sometimes they are held in with glue of varnish. I remove the pedal pivot and drop it down to get access to the top of the pedal arm, then use a flat blade screwdriver in the split to release it.
Tie a peice of flex to this end of the old cable and draw it back through into the engine bay. Now tie the end of the flex to the new cable and draw it back through to the footwell. (the cable has to follow a peculiar path around the brake servo/reservior so this makes it a quick easy job,, works best with flex tho, not string).
I have done 3 cables this way and you don't need to take the inspection cover off to do it so no mastic etc. job done in about 14 mins once you have reset the throttle position and cable tension.
Oh, another tip which has saved me removing the skin off my hands when trying to remove the split pin from the plenim end, is to undo the the hex bolts the hold this linkage to the end of the plenum chamber, the you can lift it up and get full access to the split pin and linkage. when i did my first cable i tried to remove the split pin with it in position and the pliers slipped off and i ended up with 3 stitches in the back of my hand.
Edited by bluebottle on Monday 9th October 20:30
Ballistic Banana said:
reminds me of the time my snapped had to drive 30 odd miles home witha bit of string through the window into the engine bay. Quite an experience. BB
lol, i didn't have a piece of string, so i put a bit of road gravel under the throttle return to hold the revs at 3k rpm...drove 20 miles like that till i found a garage that was open
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