Body off chassis refurb
Discussion
Thinking about stripping the car this winter and looking for some advice from people who have done this before. I think I would like to do this now and catch it before it gets to bad and I need to do a lot of welding, don't think it needs any yet from what I can see. How straight forward is it and what sort of timescale is involved to get the body off and strip the chassis?
I basically plan on getting it shot blasted, coated in Zinga and then powder coated. Also coat the inside of the tubes with something like Dinitrol S305.
Would there be any chassis mods people would suggest doing while it is at this stage, strengthening maybe, extra gussets etc?
Another thought I have had is while the body is off is to get it resprayed, is this a good idea while the body is off the chassis, I'm guessing it is easier and therefore make it a bit cheaper at the same time. Only worry is getting it to the body shop and then getting the car back together without risking damaging the new paintwork.
I basically plan on getting it shot blasted, coated in Zinga and then powder coated. Also coat the inside of the tubes with something like Dinitrol S305.
Would there be any chassis mods people would suggest doing while it is at this stage, strengthening maybe, extra gussets etc?
Another thought I have had is while the body is off is to get it resprayed, is this a good idea while the body is off the chassis, I'm guessing it is easier and therefore make it a bit cheaper at the same time. Only worry is getting it to the body shop and then getting the car back together without risking damaging the new paintwork.
I did exactly that.... then some!!!! Took me best part of a year working most weekends. You'll need at least a 1.5 size garage, plenty of tools and the patience of a Saint. This is my rebuild collection http://rides.webshots.com/album/21201 It was tough at times on reflection, especially when nearly 20k of car is lying in bits on the garage floor, but now its done I'm so much more confident in the car. So fars its driving beautifully too. If you have any detailed questions, feel free to email me. Good luck!!
longbow said:
I did exactly that.... then some!!!! Took me best part of a year working most weekends. You'll need at least a 1.5 size garage, plenty of tools and the patience of a Saint. This is my rebuild collection http://rides.webshots.com/album/21201 It was tough at times on reflection, especially when nearly 20k of car is lying in bits on the garage floor, but now its done I'm so much more confident in the car. So fars its driving beautifully too. If you have any detailed questions, feel free to email me. Good luck!!
Brilliant stuff - looks the biz.
Absolutely brilliant job there, an amazing amount of work. I am really tempted to do it, only thing that concerns me is the length of time as I am expecting my first child in Jan, so being in the garage every weekend for a year is not going to go down to well with the better half. Especially seeing that I'd have to find premises away from my house to do the work in as I only have a single garage. Did you do anything to check the alignment of the chassis? Also did you need to do any welding or was the chassis in an acceptable condition?
Fancy just doing a swap, you must be bored now you've finished it? 
Fancy just doing a swap, you must be bored now you've finished it? I was half expecting to have to do some welding based on the visual state of the chassis, but once blasted the worst corrosion was simply some light pitting. The zinga is a great solution. Now, even if the powder coating is chipped away (and its been coated twice), the zinc paint is sacrificial, so the chassis will never rust again in my lifetime - apparently its mainly used on marine applications, the guy I bought it from had never sold any for a chassis restoration before!!
The thing is, when you start pulling the car apart the whole job spirals as there is so much that can be done to improve it. As far as the weekends go, I have a long term girlfriend but she loves the Cerb so she was very supportive! The chassis alignmnent seemed fine, but you can't check it unless you have access to a Cerbera jig. I won't be doing much else to it now, apart from the headlight conversion after Xmas, and I've decided the only car to warrant selling it will be a new Corvette Z06, so I have a few years to wait yet!!
The thing is, when you start pulling the car apart the whole job spirals as there is so much that can be done to improve it. As far as the weekends go, I have a long term girlfriend but she loves the Cerb so she was very supportive! The chassis alignmnent seemed fine, but you can't check it unless you have access to a Cerbera jig. I won't be doing much else to it now, apart from the headlight conversion after Xmas, and I've decided the only car to warrant selling it will be a new Corvette Z06, so I have a few years to wait yet!!
You're right about the Zinga paint, I work as an engineer in the offshore industry and it is now used often on platforms. It has been applied to pile legs and even after 10 years in the splash zone (the most aggresive area for corrosion) there has been no signs of corrosion anywhere on the structure. Even if you get a bad scratch through to bare metal the surrounding Zinga will still protect the area as it acts as a sacrificial anode. So I would be confident that the chassis should be maintenance free for the life of the car now.
I need to try and find an empty shed close by, I guess after the initial strip down is finished, most parts can be brought back to the house for working on.
Also the price for your engine work seems like a bargain, have you noticed any difference in performance and smoothness with the work done?
I need to try and find an empty shed close by, I guess after the initial strip down is finished, most parts can be brought back to the house for working on.
Also the price for your engine work seems like a bargain, have you noticed any difference in performance and smoothness with the work done?
Fantastic Jo bLongbow, somw really good pics there.
Take my hat off to your attention to detail and such a huge effort!! it really will be worthwhile long term.
How long did it take to strip the car down to the chassis?
Where do you start?! Is it difficult or just time consuming?
How on earth did you do it just using axle stands and jacks?!!! Looks like you dropped the chassis off the body rather than lifting the body off?
What about the loom, does that take long to disconnect?
Would be really interested to hear the process and any special tips...
Take my hat off to your attention to detail and such a huge effort!! it really will be worthwhile long term.
How long did it take to strip the car down to the chassis?
Where do you start?! Is it difficult or just time consuming?
How on earth did you do it just using axle stands and jacks?!!! Looks like you dropped the chassis off the body rather than lifting the body off?
What about the loom, does that take long to disconnect?
Would be really interested to hear the process and any special tips...
Ooh so many questions!
Cerbfan - the engine was the biggest area of risk but in reality its a very simple engine, and with the manual its fairly straight forward. The engine had had a full rebuild with its previous owner (crank snapped) and so the engine was nearly all new. One of the intake valve guides slipped in the head though, causing constant plug fouling and heavy oil consumption, so thats what started the whole thing. I knew it would be a big bill and being an engineer decided to give it a go myself. I did make mistakes, but always managed to solve the problem(s). Just gone over 1000 miles now and its been faultless, smooth and pulling very hard. I will have it dyno'd when its ready, and I need to beat my last of 359hp. But its the reliabiliy thats most important, and I now know that the engine has been meticulously built and run in - if it breaks now then so be it, but I've done everything I can to make it right.
BCA - yes, know what you mean but the rear rollcage is bolted to the body which is infact very stiff indeed. It would probably be easier to cross-brace it like the speed 12, but only for serious trackday use!
Ffirg005 - Yes, every single bush replaced. I've given powerflex the thumbs up, and the kit should be out shortly.
Robertjp - stripping the car is in a way the easiest bit. This is the way I did it, but I'm sure there are other/better ways. Firstly engine/box/diff out. Remove seats and carpets and fuel tank. Remove front console. This allows access to all bolts that join the chassis and body. I then supported the car by the body using axle stands, and used scissor jacks to support the chassis. I had to strop the front of the body to the garage roof to allow the chassis to be dragged out. When all the bolts are removed, you simply lower the chassis using the scissor jacks, step by step and slowly! The trick is to get the body high enough to allow the chassis to be pulled out when you finally get it on the deck. The trick is to do its very slowly, that way you can stop if something seems wrong. For example, I founf the chassis was actually set into the grp at the outer front seatbelt mounting points, and I had to cut out some of the grp to allow the chassis to drop. The engine loom unplugs just below the header tank, and I left all the wiring intact in the body. This helped, as I didn't have to chase electical problems after the car was rebuilt.
Cerbfan - the engine was the biggest area of risk but in reality its a very simple engine, and with the manual its fairly straight forward. The engine had had a full rebuild with its previous owner (crank snapped) and so the engine was nearly all new. One of the intake valve guides slipped in the head though, causing constant plug fouling and heavy oil consumption, so thats what started the whole thing. I knew it would be a big bill and being an engineer decided to give it a go myself. I did make mistakes, but always managed to solve the problem(s). Just gone over 1000 miles now and its been faultless, smooth and pulling very hard. I will have it dyno'd when its ready, and I need to beat my last of 359hp. But its the reliabiliy thats most important, and I now know that the engine has been meticulously built and run in - if it breaks now then so be it, but I've done everything I can to make it right.
BCA - yes, know what you mean but the rear rollcage is bolted to the body which is infact very stiff indeed. It would probably be easier to cross-brace it like the speed 12, but only for serious trackday use!
Ffirg005 - Yes, every single bush replaced. I've given powerflex the thumbs up, and the kit should be out shortly.
Robertjp - stripping the car is in a way the easiest bit. This is the way I did it, but I'm sure there are other/better ways. Firstly engine/box/diff out. Remove seats and carpets and fuel tank. Remove front console. This allows access to all bolts that join the chassis and body. I then supported the car by the body using axle stands, and used scissor jacks to support the chassis. I had to strop the front of the body to the garage roof to allow the chassis to be dragged out. When all the bolts are removed, you simply lower the chassis using the scissor jacks, step by step and slowly! The trick is to get the body high enough to allow the chassis to be pulled out when you finally get it on the deck. The trick is to do its very slowly, that way you can stop if something seems wrong. For example, I founf the chassis was actually set into the grp at the outer front seatbelt mounting points, and I had to cut out some of the grp to allow the chassis to drop. The engine loom unplugs just below the header tank, and I left all the wiring intact in the body. This helped, as I didn't have to chase electical problems after the car was rebuilt.
Edited by longbow on Thursday 12th October 21:50
Edited by longbow on Thursday 12th October 22:15
fantastic job. When we do ours, im going to try and convince dad to do something about the rear of the cage... strong body or not, I cant help but feel there are HUGE torsional benefits from sorting this.
It's encouraging to know that it can be done given the time, energy and enthusiasm... not so sure about the engineering background, but Dad should have that stuff covered. You must be (quite rightly) very proud!
It took me some 2 days to get the body off after removing the engine/gearbox. Everything has to be disassembled, fuel tanks removed, cooling system etc. About 46 bolts to be undone or cut. Real killers are the hidden body bolts under the dash and behind the fuel tank. Most of my rust problems only became apparent when the engine was removed BTW.
I used a two poster lift to remove the body very slowly. As for the roll cage not bolting through to the chassis... I think that is wrong. There are bolts at the back in the outriggers and bolts behind the seats that go into the chassis so the whole structure is pretty stiff and robust.
I should have a suspension bolt kit for the Cerbera pretty soon. Just want to check that all the replacements are correct before making it available.
Replaced the bushed with superflex - most are the same as Griff so Tower View had them on the shelf. Rear top diff bush is a swine unless you have the special tool.
If welding is needed, you will need a jig. Get the mounting holes wrong and the body will not fit or bolt on correctly.
I used a two poster lift to remove the body very slowly. As for the roll cage not bolting through to the chassis... I think that is wrong. There are bolts at the back in the outriggers and bolts behind the seats that go into the chassis so the whole structure is pretty stiff and robust.
I should have a suspension bolt kit for the Cerbera pretty soon. Just want to check that all the replacements are correct before making it available.
Replaced the bushed with superflex - most are the same as Griff so Tower View had them on the shelf. Rear top diff bush is a swine unless you have the special tool.
If welding is needed, you will need a jig. Get the mounting holes wrong and the body will not fit or bolt on correctly.
Edited by shpub on Friday 13th October 22:26
Morning Tim - just about to set off for the Pod. Right, the valve guides are top notch phosphor bronze ones as standard. The engine shop in Doncaster had no problem machining new ones from blanks (although due to the material they were relatively expensive compared to standard guides), and they have been fine so far. They also machined the stems down to lessen the obstruction in the intake/exhaust. Are you sure it isn't simply that your stem seals are worn??
I've added a few more pics that I thought might be of interest. One is the interior with carpets/console removed and the other is the body lashed to the garage roof with the chassis going back in. On reflection this was pretty risky buy hey ho, it worked!
I've added a few more pics that I thought might be of interest. One is the interior with carpets/console removed and the other is the body lashed to the garage roof with the chassis going back in. On reflection this was pretty risky buy hey ho, it worked!
Edited by longbow on Saturday 14th October 08:28
that is truly a fantastic rebuild longbow!
I will do that to mine but need to enjoy it for another couple of years
so a few weekends trying to slow down deterioration is all mines going to get for a while!
its a shame the starting point is poor ... I did the same as you on a 25year old (at the time) Lotus elan plus2
and the condition was probably comparable to our 8-10 year old cerbies!
I took probably nearer 2 years but did strip the bodyshel back to glass and repair / repray myself .. parts were tricky also as I has to wait over 6 months at the time for a new chassis! (pre married life - living with my mum so had too much money !) - great experience though!
Also just to point out if you do start a project like this you need the space to do it and just get on with it - ive had a couple of projects I gave up on as time and space didnt permit - i cant let the cerb go down that route!!!
regards to all ... DAS
I will do that to mine but need to enjoy it for another couple of years
so a few weekends trying to slow down deterioration is all mines going to get for a while!
its a shame the starting point is poor ... I did the same as you on a 25year old (at the time) Lotus elan plus2
and the condition was probably comparable to our 8-10 year old cerbies!
I took probably nearer 2 years but did strip the bodyshel back to glass and repair / repray myself .. parts were tricky also as I has to wait over 6 months at the time for a new chassis! (pre married life - living with my mum so had too much money !) - great experience though!
Also just to point out if you do start a project like this you need the space to do it and just get on with it - ive had a couple of projects I gave up on as time and space didnt permit - i cant let the cerb go down that route!!!
regards to all ... DAS
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