Waxoyling and a burnt wire

[TimJM]

As a newbie to the cerb world (3 days of heaven) I have a couple of questions on work I want to carry out on the car.

First off (and the easiest) I would like to have the chassis waxoyled. Looking under and around the car it is all in really good condition (I think it was done last year) and as I plan to drive in the winter months I would like to keep it that way. Can anyone recommend a good place in the Telford/midlands area and give me an indication of price.

Second, the only problem with the car is the rear passenger side tail light is out. The problem is due to a snapped burnt out wire (it is the yellow one that goes into the center of the bulb unit). I have traced the wiring loom and it seems to run from the passenger side across the rear of the boot over to the driver side where it branches. One branch to feed the drivers side lights, the other branch heading off back to the engine. The burnt out wire is only damaged (melted plastic coating) until about half way across the boot. The drivers side light works fine and the wire is in good condition at that point.

Can I just cut the damaged wire off and connect a new one from the working drivers side over to the passenger side tail light?

Any help appreciated.

Tim.

[victormeldrew]

I'd be wanting to know why it burnt out. You need to trace that wire back further, hopefully to a fuse. My guess is a 3 or 5 amp fuse has been replaced with a 30 amp one (or worse) by someone.

If the wire is getting hot enough to burn its insulation you have a problem which need to be solved, and not just by replacing the wire with a new one. I personally wouldn't appreciate the carpet near my petrol tank catching fire.

[TimJM]

victormeldrew said:

I'd be wanting to know why it burnt out. You need to trace that wire back further, hopefully to a fuse. My guess is a 3 or 5 amp fuse has been replaced with a 30 amp one (or worse) by someone.

If the wire is getting hot enough to burn its insulation you have a problem which need to be solved, and not just by replacing the wire with a new one. I personally wouldn't appreciate the carpet near my petrol tank catching fire.

Yes - I just assumed the light that was broken had a poor connection that had caused the heat. I have just checked my fuses and I do have two incorrect ones in place.

No. 2 - Sidelamps and rear fog lamps, should be a 15A but is a 20A.
No. 15 - Wipers, steering ECU supply, should be a 20A but is a 15A.

If I swap these two fuses over would it then be safe to replace the wire?

[victormeldrew]

TimJM said:

victormeldrew said:

I'd be wanting to know why it burnt out. You need to trace that wire back further, hopefully to a fuse. My guess is a 3 or 5 amp fuse has been replaced with a 30 amp one (or worse) by someone.

If the wire is getting hot enough to burn its insulation you have a problem which need to be solved, and not just by replacing the wire with a new one. I personally wouldn't appreciate the carpet near my petrol tank catching fire.

Yes - I just assumed the light that was broken had a poor connection that had caused the heat. I have just checked my fuses and I do have two incorrect ones in place.

No. 2 - Sidelamps and rear fog lamps, should be a 15A but is a 20A.
No. 15 - Wipers, steering ECU supply, should be a 20A but is a 15A.

If I swap these two fuses over would it then be safe to replace the wire?

That doesn't seem like much of a difference, and 15A for sidelamps and rear fogs seems a lot*. I'd want to check how much current was being drawn down that wire, and check that circuit for shorts to earth. A current spike when the bulb blew wouldn't have burnt out the wire, that's more a continual drain of a lot of current. Unless the wire itself is under spec for the current drawn by a fog lamp? I doubt you drive about with the fogs on continually anyway.

I'd get the curcuit tested to check for shorts, replace the fuse with a 5A, and replace the cable with the next size up just be sure!

* a = w/v
2 off 21w fogs, 2 off 5 amp sides = 52w max drain.
a = 52w/12v = 4.3a max on that cicuit.

[TimJM]

Hi,

I have decided the wires that are currently used (factory fitted TVR ones) aren’t going to be up to the job anyhow. When I pulled some of the insulation away there only seems to be a few hair thin copper threads in each. I can see why one melted.

So what I need to do is track the whole loom back to the fusebox (I assume it will go there at some point) and replace it entirely.

So a couple of new questions;

1. How do I remove the fuse box so I can get to and replace the wires on the back? If the fuse box can’t be removed how do you work on it?
2. I guess this loom will also feed the boot light and the boot switch but I am not sure. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the rear lights and boot light/switch?


Tim.

[alinton]

On mine, the fusebox has 2 8mm bolts holding it in.

Remove those and it comes out no prob.

Although I believe there are different fiseboxes used in different cars, so your mileage may vary!

Andy.