renault clio 1.2 '97 Engine sputtering & cutting out
Discussion
Hi I've got a renault clio 1.2 rl paris '97, When I'm at lights or wherever the engine needs to tick over the engine begins to flutter asthough it's missing a beat and going to loose power, it has on a few occasions cut out on me.
I was having some problems starting the car at first but think that was just me getting used to letting the fuel pump fire first.
I've tried replacing the fuel pump relays but they were fine, we also used some cleaner on the carb but its still fluttering. can anyone help?
thanks
I was having some problems starting the car at first but think that was just me getting used to letting the fuel pump fire first.
I've tried replacing the fuel pump relays but they were fine, we also used some cleaner on the carb but its still fluttering. can anyone help?
thanks
I had a problem with the 1.2 clio I had with the idle speed control valve, in my case it stuck out causing the idle to be really high but I could imagine it sticking the other way and causing stalling. Also about 5-10 seconds after you turn the engine off it's supposed to screw it's self right out automatically to help with starting, which might seem to tie in with the problems you describe. What fixed it for me was taking it off the side of the throttle body and blasting everything out with carb cleaner.
My car was a couple of years older than yours, I think 97/98 is when they started to go to a different injection system and updated body shape so I'm not sure if it will be the same as mine was. Anyway for mine you took off the airbox to see the throttle body, then you could see two black boxes on the sides - one facing the side was the TPS and one facing front was the idle speed control valve. Three or four small star-head screws to take it off, and you will see a black plunger which opens or covers the idle air circuit in the throttle body. If its all full of black carbony oily crap then blast it out with carb cleaner and put it back together again.
The other problem I had with that car was the HT leads arcing around the boots to the heatshield above the exhaust mannifold. Twice I had this problem, once the boot was damaged and once on a cheap generic replacement HT lead the boots weren't really big enough. If you listen closely (not too closely!!) to that area when the idle is playing up you might hear or see a tiny 'crack' sound that co-incides with a misfire, if it does then check the HT lead boots.
Hope this helps,
Neil
My car was a couple of years older than yours, I think 97/98 is when they started to go to a different injection system and updated body shape so I'm not sure if it will be the same as mine was. Anyway for mine you took off the airbox to see the throttle body, then you could see two black boxes on the sides - one facing the side was the TPS and one facing front was the idle speed control valve. Three or four small star-head screws to take it off, and you will see a black plunger which opens or covers the idle air circuit in the throttle body. If its all full of black carbony oily crap then blast it out with carb cleaner and put it back together again.
The other problem I had with that car was the HT leads arcing around the boots to the heatshield above the exhaust mannifold. Twice I had this problem, once the boot was damaged and once on a cheap generic replacement HT lead the boots weren't really big enough. If you listen closely (not too closely!!) to that area when the idle is playing up you might hear or see a tiny 'crack' sound that co-incides with a misfire, if it does then check the HT lead boots.
Hope this helps,
Neil
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