Ohlin Shocks for LS6 Cerb
Discussion
I asked my local (New Zealand) performance parts guys if they could supply adjustable shocks for my Cerbera build. There are only 2 Cerbs in NZ I believe so it's not exactly a common request for them (which is why I'm also looking into sourcing from the UK). I went to see them again today and they gave me these - sourced from Ohlin UK via Ohlin NZ I believe. Note the differences in spring rates.
Front shocks - road setup
Front shocks - track setup
Rear shocks - road setup
Rear shocks - track setup
The 450hp Chev LS6 lump I'm putting in is approximately 50Kg heavier than an AJP, and the setup I'm aiming for is 'fast road with some track use'. Based on these spec sheets and previous discussions in this forum I'm thinking that 400lb fronts and 325lb rears might be fair starting point. Comments....?
Front shocks - road setup
Front shocks - track setup
Rear shocks - road setup
Rear shocks - track setup
The 450hp Chev LS6 lump I'm putting in is approximately 50Kg heavier than an AJP, and the setup I'm aiming for is 'fast road with some track use'. Based on these spec sheets and previous discussions in this forum I'm thinking that 400lb fronts and 325lb rears might be fair starting point. Comments....?
I think I have 425lb front, 375lb rear for fast road and track use (with an AJP8), although I guess you need to match the spring rate to the dampers. Best bet would be to solicit Joolz (trackcar) for advice -- I believe he can supply Ohlins dampers but as you're in NZ I'm sure he wouldn't be offended if you got them from somewhere else.
800lb, bloody hell, tell me thats a misprint.
Cos if it isn't I would probably never use it on the road. The road surface would be transfered to the weld points on your chassis with virtually no shock absorbance, and I would keep them well monitered.
I say this because I broke a weld point on my cobra because of too stiff springs on the front.
Cos if it isn't I would probably never use it on the road. The road surface would be transfered to the weld points on your chassis with virtually no shock absorbance, and I would keep them well monitered.
I say this because I broke a weld point on my cobra because of too stiff springs on the front.
I'm running these on mine. I have 375lb front and 325lb rear and it handles great road and track. Tell your supplier about the engine weight and they will re-calculate the rates required. I wouldn't go any stiffer with springs on these shocks as they're not like other aftermarket shock absorber manufacturers and dont need it.
Ffirg 005 said:
800!!! I've not heard anyone mention more than 500 on the fronts before. I'd be interested to know what the thinking was behind the decision to go that firm?
He runs slicks occaisionally IIRC.
Im suprised that you dont get pretty pronounced flex at that point actually.
800 is fine on a good damper if you like it sporty and hve a lot of track driving in mind. still road useable.
i run 700 on the v8S and drive it on the road, yes it's getting uncomfy at that rate on the relatively light S but it's certainly still got some suspension action over bumps.
I've often sent cerbs for track use out on 500/600 fronts with no real issues other than the ride being "a bit firm"
our race tasmin peaked at 1200 front springs at one point ..
i run 700 on the v8S and drive it on the road, yes it's getting uncomfy at that rate on the relatively light S but it's certainly still got some suspension action over bumps.
I've often sent cerbs for track use out on 500/600 fronts with no real issues other than the ride being "a bit firm"
our race tasmin peaked at 1200 front springs at one point ..
I dont think so. I think I took the helpers off and just put the ones they came spec with back on as it did drive better on the road and 1/4mile. 
Yep, I'm running 450's on the front on 18" as a daily driver and its pretty much go-kart like. But you have to avoid pot holes, a good pot hole would put the spider rims out of true, one of the reasons that so many Cerbs seem to have a vibration in the steering wheel at some speeds.
Also running 550's on the Cobra (much heavier engine), but the shake so far has been responsible for cracking a weld point on the frame and a stainless steel manifold.
I'm sure the average human being could survive 500,800,1000,1200, and maybe even come away saying its a smooth ride on country lanes, but I rekon the frame takes a hell of a bashing with plus 500 springs. If the spiders are anything to go by I'd like to see an 800lb spring rate frame back on the jigs for testing.
Also running 550's on the Cobra (much heavier engine), but the shake so far has been responsible for cracking a weld point on the frame and a stainless steel manifold.
I'm sure the average human being could survive 500,800,1000,1200, and maybe even come away saying its a smooth ride on country lanes, but I rekon the frame takes a hell of a bashing with plus 500 springs. If the spiders are anything to go by I'd like to see an 800lb spring rate frame back on the jigs for testing.
What intrigues me most about the recommendation is how low the spring rates are for the proposed road setup. 325lb/in front and 275 lb/in rear is much lower than I ever heard of other Cerb setups. Is this a road only with no track use setup or is this because of what the Gazman termed, "riding on the dampers," in a previous post.
Steve.
Steve.
Edited by Steve_T on Tuesday 14th November 08:42
Yes
Monotube manufacturers do advocate "riding on the dampers" with quite low spring rates but Ohlins also advise full service every two years.
I've had a chat with Dave Lyon from Gaz (ex Leda) about this and to a degree you can work a monotube shock harder than a twintube but there is a limit to the standard valving because the range of damping is within a fairly narrow band on Ohlins and Nitron and if you don't want the car to roll like a pig on more excessive driving (like on the track), you have to look at a revalve and increasing spring rates.
Its not difficult to sort it out, you just need to talk to Toby at the Ohlins main dealer or go to a specialist like Gugi, Topcats or Joo, who revalve Nitron for the track cars all the time.
I get away with running a larger range of springs because Gaz run a much larger range of damping than most but I recomend double adjustables as soon as you get past 450/500lb springs because having seperate control of rebound saves messing about with bump/rebound ratios.
BTW Dave believes that gas charged shocks should only run 25lb lower spring rate than twin tube shocks and after 35 years of playing with all sorts of cars, I aint going to argue with him.
Monotube manufacturers do advocate "riding on the dampers" with quite low spring rates but Ohlins also advise full service every two years.
I've had a chat with Dave Lyon from Gaz (ex Leda) about this and to a degree you can work a monotube shock harder than a twintube but there is a limit to the standard valving because the range of damping is within a fairly narrow band on Ohlins and Nitron and if you don't want the car to roll like a pig on more excessive driving (like on the track), you have to look at a revalve and increasing spring rates.
Its not difficult to sort it out, you just need to talk to Toby at the Ohlins main dealer or go to a specialist like Gugi, Topcats or Joo, who revalve Nitron for the track cars all the time.
I get away with running a larger range of springs because Gaz run a much larger range of damping than most but I recomend double adjustables as soon as you get past 450/500lb springs because having seperate control of rebound saves messing about with bump/rebound ratios.
BTW Dave believes that gas charged shocks should only run 25lb lower spring rate than twin tube shocks and after 35 years of playing with all sorts of cars, I aint going to argue with him.
Edited by the gazman on Tuesday 14th November 11:01
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