Best company to go to for chassis treatment
Discussion
I live in north Essex and just wondered who is the best company to go to to treat my chassis especially the outriggers.
It has been waxoyled previous to my ownership but i think it needs stripping back to bare metal in certain places and treating with more effective products like POR15 or similar.
Any advice and in particular any personal recommendations would be gratefully received.
Andy
It has been waxoyled previous to my ownership but i think it needs stripping back to bare metal in certain places and treating with more effective products like POR15 or similar.
Any advice and in particular any personal recommendations would be gratefully received.
Andy
s5tvr said:
For any garage to do the job properly would take many hours and you'd be looking at a hefty bill. If you want it done properly and permanently, then do it yourself using POR15, Hammerite & Waxoyl.
It's an ideal winter project.
Very true. It's an ideal winter project.
The period required for drying after cleaning, curing after rust treatment and cure after paint application means that it is impossible to do the job right in a day, even two days is too short. Cleaning properly will mean that the chassis needs to air dry for several days. Rust cure is usually a couple of hours, Hamerite takes an hour. If the say they'll be finished in less than a week then I wouldn't go near them.
Another point to consider. When doing the mucky work do you really believe the shop Forman, who you discussed the job with, is hands on? I doubt it very much. The mucky tasks are always done by the workshop junior who is probably sick of getting all the dirty jobs so is unlikely to bother getting the muck out of the really awkward places.
Do it yourself, only then will you know the job is right.
seasider said:
Buy some axle stands, a wire brush, a few other bits like paint scrapers that can be formed
to the shapes required & a brush !!!!
Not knocking any firm in particular but you will know if you miss any bits
to the shapes required & a brush !!!! Not knocking any firm in particular but you will know if you miss any bits

I am considering it but i thought there might be a company that specialises in this fairly unexciting and dirty job.
This must be an opportunity for one of the independents to offer this sought after service, especially as our cars get older.
I don't mind paying good money for a good job but i would like some recommendations from satisfied customers if there are any.
Andy
else said:
seasider said:
Buy some axle stands, a wire brush, a few other bits like paint scrapers that can be formed
to the shapes required & a brush !!!!
Not knocking any firm in particular but you will know if you miss any bits
to the shapes required & a brush !!!! Not knocking any firm in particular but you will know if you miss any bits

I am considering it but i thought there might be a company that specialises in this fairly unexciting and dirty job.
This must be an opportunity for one of the independents to offer this sought after service, especially as our cars get older.
I don't mind paying good money for a good job but i would like some recommendations from satisfied customers if there are any.
Andy

oggs said:
seasider said:
If you find one that does a good a job as i think a DIY one can be done please tell Oggs 

I refer the older gentleman to my earlier post on this thread.. The company who done mine last week

Still not having a go at said company in particular
Edited by seasider on Tuesday 21st November 23:07
You'll get POR15 and Zinga mailorder from Frosts and if you go to the Tectyl webpage you'll get details of your nearest stockist. By the way I would use the almost clear Tectyl (305? I think) as it's designed for use on surface metal and dries to a hard finish - only comes off with white spirit or multiple hot steam washes - it was designed for MoD for use on new military vehicles kept in storage I believe. I have had it on vehicles for almost twenty years and its still intact - I hose the underside down to remove dirt and you can still see what's underneath.
Ricardo
Ricardo
Sportmotive did a sterling job on my chassis a couple of weeks back - they had the car for 4 weeks though as my diff was off being rebuilt so they were able to take their time and allow plenty of curing for the products. That was starting from a bare metal strip as well - they even documented the whole process with photo's too. Definately recommended!
One of the first things I have done on mine was a treatment by Rustmaster:
www.rustmaster.co.uk/
Very thorough job, maybe too thorough, had to clean the shiny bits in the engine bay with white spirit afterwards!!! But got in absolutely everywhere, filled all the cavities and a comprehensive coating of everything on the outside. Plus, they offer free inspections and patch-ups (if you catch the chassis and scrape it off, for example) and a gaurantee against any rust showing through for 3 years afterwards.
Glad I did it as it was the only badly neglected part on the car when I got it, and I figure treatments like that can only be good for preserving the value of the car.
www.rustmaster.co.uk/
Very thorough job, maybe too thorough, had to clean the shiny bits in the engine bay with white spirit afterwards!!! But got in absolutely everywhere, filled all the cavities and a comprehensive coating of everything on the outside. Plus, they offer free inspections and patch-ups (if you catch the chassis and scrape it off, for example) and a gaurantee against any rust showing through for 3 years afterwards.
Glad I did it as it was the only badly neglected part on the car when I got it, and I figure treatments like that can only be good for preserving the value of the car.
Ricardo Bertone said:
You'll get POR15 and Zinga mailorder from Frosts and if you go to the Tectyl webpage you'll get details of your nearest stockist. By the way I would use the almost clear Tectyl (305? I think) as it's designed for use on surface metal and dries to a hard finish - only comes off with white spirit or multiple hot steam washes - it was designed for MoD for use on new military vehicles kept in storage I believe. I have had it on vehicles for almost twenty years and its still intact - I hose the underside down to remove dirt and you can still see what's underneath.
Ricardo
Ricardo
Hmmmm.. not used 305, I used 504. Sort of a Honey coloured one, does the same and dries hard. Bad thing about Tectyl is that it's noly available in something silly like 20 litre batches, individual Gallon canisters but you have to buy a job lot. If anyone knows where to get some individually I'd be very interested.
-JUT- said:
One of the first things I have done on mine was a treatment by Rustmaster:
www.rustmaster.co.uk/
Very thorough job, maybe too thorough, had to clean the shiny bits in the engine bay with white spirit afterwards!!! But got in absolutely everywhere, filled all the cavities and a comprehensive coating of everything on the outside. Plus, they offer free inspections and patch-ups (if you catch the chassis and scrape it off, for example) and a gaurantee against any rust showing through for 3 years afterwards.
Glad I did it as it was the only badly neglected part on the car when I got it, and I figure treatments like that can only be good for preserving the value of the car.
www.rustmaster.co.uk/
Very thorough job, maybe too thorough, had to clean the shiny bits in the engine bay with white spirit afterwards!!! But got in absolutely everywhere, filled all the cavities and a comprehensive coating of everything on the outside. Plus, they offer free inspections and patch-ups (if you catch the chassis and scrape it off, for example) and a gaurantee against any rust showing through for 3 years afterwards.
Glad I did it as it was the only badly neglected part on the car when I got it, and I figure treatments like that can only be good for preserving the value of the car.
Do you mind if I ask how much they charged?
_Deejay_ said:
-JUT- said:
One of the first things I have done on mine was a treatment by Rustmaster:
www.rustmaster.co.uk/
Very thorough job, maybe too thorough, had to clean the shiny bits in the engine bay with white spirit afterwards!!! But got in absolutely everywhere, filled all the cavities and a comprehensive coating of everything on the outside. Plus, they offer free inspections and patch-ups (if you catch the chassis and scrape it off, for example) and a gaurantee against any rust showing through for 3 years afterwards.
Glad I did it as it was the only badly neglected part on the car when I got it, and I figure treatments like that can only be good for preserving the value of the car.
www.rustmaster.co.uk/
Very thorough job, maybe too thorough, had to clean the shiny bits in the engine bay with white spirit afterwards!!! But got in absolutely everywhere, filled all the cavities and a comprehensive coating of everything on the outside. Plus, they offer free inspections and patch-ups (if you catch the chassis and scrape it off, for example) and a gaurantee against any rust showing through for 3 years afterwards.
Glad I did it as it was the only badly neglected part on the car when I got it, and I figure treatments like that can only be good for preserving the value of the car.
Do you mind if I ask how much they charged?
I'd be quite interested also
steam clean the chassis with the hostest water possible.
use Dinitrol 3125 thinned with white spirit and use a parafin gun with 60 psi pressure, this way it will cover the chassis top tubes and get onto the mounting plates as well
then use Comma Waxseal ontop of the 3125
Rustbuster is the cheapest place for Dinitrol
just done mine and it looks great so should last longer than the original TVR covering or lack off
use Dinitrol 3125 thinned with white spirit and use a parafin gun with 60 psi pressure, this way it will cover the chassis top tubes and get onto the mounting plates as well
then use Comma Waxseal ontop of the 3125
Rustbuster is the cheapest place for Dinitrol
just done mine and it looks great so should last longer than the original TVR covering or lack off
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