BLEEDING CLUTCH!
Discussion
Yes it is as long as you keep the resevoir topped up as you bleed.
With a bleed bottle attached to the clutch bleed pipe-open the nipple up and pump the pedal-The pedal will be slack for a while as the fluid finds its way(may find you need to close the nipple,pump,then open the nipple,pump and so on to force the fluid in).Then you will see the level start to drop quicker and you will feel some resistance in the pedal(only slight).Close the nipple and pump the pedal-it is esential that you top the level up as you pump because the slave will close the gap to the clutch this will draw in alot of fluid.
You should hopefully now have a pedal-then finally open the nipple again and pump a few times to push any air left in the system.
I've never had a problem bleeding these-tends to be a farly quick process,bout 10 mins
With a bleed bottle attached to the clutch bleed pipe-open the nipple up and pump the pedal-The pedal will be slack for a while as the fluid finds its way(may find you need to close the nipple,pump,then open the nipple,pump and so on to force the fluid in).Then you will see the level start to drop quicker and you will feel some resistance in the pedal(only slight).Close the nipple and pump the pedal-it is esential that you top the level up as you pump because the slave will close the gap to the clutch this will draw in alot of fluid.
You should hopefully now have a pedal-then finally open the nipple again and pump a few times to push any air left in the system.
I've never had a problem bleeding these-tends to be a farly quick process,bout 10 mins
blackspider said:
Yes it is as long as you keep the resevoir topped up as you bleed.
With a bleed bottle attached to the clutch bleed pipe-open the nipple up and pump the pedal-The pedal will be slack for a while as the fluid finds its way(may find you need to close the nipple,pump,then open the nipple,pump and so on to force the fluid in).Then you will see the level start to drop quicker and you will feel some resistance in the pedal(only slight).Close the nipple and pump the pedal-it is esential that you top the level up as you pump because the slave will close the gap to the clutch this will draw in alot of fluid.
You should hopefully now have a pedal-then finally open the nipple again and pump a few times to push any air left in the system.
I've never had a problem bleeding these-tends to be a farly quick process,bout 10 mins
With a bleed bottle attached to the clutch bleed pipe-open the nipple up and pump the pedal-The pedal will be slack for a while as the fluid finds its way(may find you need to close the nipple,pump,then open the nipple,pump and so on to force the fluid in).Then you will see the level start to drop quicker and you will feel some resistance in the pedal(only slight).Close the nipple and pump the pedal-it is esential that you top the level up as you pump because the slave will close the gap to the clutch this will draw in alot of fluid.
You should hopefully now have a pedal-then finally open the nipple again and pump a few times to push any air left in the system.
I've never had a problem bleeding these-tends to be a farly quick process,bout 10 mins
cheers for that!
esso said:
blackspider said:
Yes it is as long as you keep the resevoir topped up as you bleed.
With a bleed bottle attached to the clutch bleed pipe-open the nipple up and pump the pedal-The pedal will be slack for a while as the fluid finds its way(may find you need to close the nipple,pump,then open the nipple,pump and so on to force the fluid in).Then you will see the level start to drop quicker and you will feel some resistance in the pedal(only slight).Close the nipple and pump the pedal-it is esential that you top the level up as you pump because the slave will close the gap to the clutch this will draw in alot of fluid.
You should hopefully now have a pedal-then finally open the nipple again and pump a few times to push any air left in the system.
I've never had a problem bleeding these-tends to be a farly quick process,bout 10 mins
With a bleed bottle attached to the clutch bleed pipe-open the nipple up and pump the pedal-The pedal will be slack for a while as the fluid finds its way(may find you need to close the nipple,pump,then open the nipple,pump and so on to force the fluid in).Then you will see the level start to drop quicker and you will feel some resistance in the pedal(only slight).Close the nipple and pump the pedal-it is esential that you top the level up as you pump because the slave will close the gap to the clutch this will draw in alot of fluid.
You should hopefully now have a pedal-then finally open the nipple again and pump a few times to push any air left in the system.
I've never had a problem bleeding these-tends to be a farly quick process,bout 10 mins
cheers for that!
TooTall Paul said:
esso said:
blackspider said:
Yes it is as long as you keep the resevoir topped up as you bleed.
With a bleed bottle attached to the clutch bleed pipe-open the nipple up and pump the pedal-The pedal will be slack for a while as the fluid finds its way(may find you need to close the nipple,pump,then open the nipple,pump and so on to force the fluid in).Then you will see the level start to drop quicker and you will feel some resistance in the pedal(only slight).Close the nipple and pump the pedal-it is esential that you top the level up as you pump because the slave will close the gap to the clutch this will draw in alot of fluid.
You should hopefully now have a pedal-then finally open the nipple again and pump a few times to push any air left in the system.
I've never had a problem bleeding these-tends to be a farly quick process,bout 10 mins
With a bleed bottle attached to the clutch bleed pipe-open the nipple up and pump the pedal-The pedal will be slack for a while as the fluid finds its way(may find you need to close the nipple,pump,then open the nipple,pump and so on to force the fluid in).Then you will see the level start to drop quicker and you will feel some resistance in the pedal(only slight).Close the nipple and pump the pedal-it is esential that you top the level up as you pump because the slave will close the gap to the clutch this will draw in alot of fluid.
You should hopefully now have a pedal-then finally open the nipple again and pump a few times to push any air left in the system.
I've never had a problem bleeding these-tends to be a farly quick process,bout 10 mins
cheers for that!
They have to be at the 12o'clock & 6o'clock position around the bore dont they? But they dont line up exactly with the bleed hole along the bore do they?(if you know what i mean)
esso said:
Finally fitted new slave cylinder to bellhousing and gonna be putting car back together this weekend.Just wanted to know if bleeding the clutch is straightforward or is there anything to watch out for?
Esso - I tried contacting you before. My Slave cylinder from Clever Trevor was faulty, the last batch they made had incorrect seals fitted, mine had to come out again, to there credit they replaced it with a new one immediately, so contact them first before you put it all back together to make sure yours is OK.
jensena said:
esso said:
Finally fitted new slave cylinder to bellhousing and gonna be putting car back together this weekend.Just wanted to know if bleeding the clutch is straightforward or is there anything to watch out for?
Esso - I tried contacting you before. My Slave cylinder from Clever Trevor was faulty, the last batch they made had incorrect seals fitted, mine had to come out again, to there credit they replaced it with a new one immediately, so contact them first before you put it all back together to make sure yours is OK.
I didnt purchase my slave cylinder from Clever Trevor,it came from TVR POWER.so hoping its good.Is your car back in one peice and fully functional now?Putting mine back together this weekend i hope!
esso said:
TooTall Paul said:
esso said:
blackspider said:
Yes it is as long as you keep the resevoir topped up as you bleed.
With a bleed bottle attached to the clutch bleed pipe-open the nipple up and pump the pedal-The pedal will be slack for a while as the fluid finds its way(may find you need to close the nipple,pump,then open the nipple,pump and so on to force the fluid in).Then you will see the level start to drop quicker and you will feel some resistance in the pedal(only slight).Close the nipple and pump the pedal-it is esential that you top the level up as you pump because the slave will close the gap to the clutch this will draw in alot of fluid.
You should hopefully now have a pedal-then finally open the nipple again and pump a few times to push any air left in the system.
I've never had a problem bleeding these-tends to be a farly quick process,bout 10 mins
With a bleed bottle attached to the clutch bleed pipe-open the nipple up and pump the pedal-The pedal will be slack for a while as the fluid finds its way(may find you need to close the nipple,pump,then open the nipple,pump and so on to force the fluid in).Then you will see the level start to drop quicker and you will feel some resistance in the pedal(only slight).Close the nipple and pump the pedal-it is esential that you top the level up as you pump because the slave will close the gap to the clutch this will draw in alot of fluid.
You should hopefully now have a pedal-then finally open the nipple again and pump a few times to push any air left in the system.
I've never had a problem bleeding these-tends to be a farly quick process,bout 10 mins
cheers for that!
They have to be at the 12o'clock & 6o'clock position around the bore dont they? But they dont line up exactly with the bleed hole along the bore do they?(if you know what i mean)
i know what you mean 
lots of helpful info on these forums - so best to do a quick search. 2 man job. although I have nexver used an ezibleed kit (sp?)
Lift bonnet!
Take off the large f/glass cover at the back of the engine bay held on by 2 allen headed bolts above either wing, of different lengths, so rember which goes where. This is a lttle awkward to get out, make sure you disconnect the washer pipes from the wipers so the can feed through. When you lift it out mid the paintwork!!!
The tricky bit is getting to the master cylinder under the f/glass cover on the driver side inner wing. It is covered in silicon sealant and held down by 3 (in my case) screws. Took ages of chopping at the sealant to free it! like working in the effing bathroon!! The bleed nipple is easy to find, end of a metal mesh covered pipe about the size of a pencil, just in front of the drivers windscreen.
Not much room though so go slowly get a small recepticle to catch the old fluid (i cut down a plastic bottle). Oh, and use plenty of cloth to catch spillages off the engine and paint work. For the record bleeding mine made sod all diffrence just a load of black parcticles came flying out indicating a seal had gone. But I enjoyed the hunt as 'twer.
I am not up to a cylinder replacement, did a brake cylinder on one car once and it wasn't "funny" at all.
Lift bonnet!
Take off the large f/glass cover at the back of the engine bay held on by 2 allen headed bolts above either wing, of different lengths, so rember which goes where. This is a lttle awkward to get out, make sure you disconnect the washer pipes from the wipers so the can feed through. When you lift it out mid the paintwork!!!
The tricky bit is getting to the master cylinder under the f/glass cover on the driver side inner wing. It is covered in silicon sealant and held down by 3 (in my case) screws. Took ages of chopping at the sealant to free it! like working in the effing bathroon!! The bleed nipple is easy to find, end of a metal mesh covered pipe about the size of a pencil, just in front of the drivers windscreen.
Not much room though so go slowly get a small recepticle to catch the old fluid (i cut down a plastic bottle). Oh, and use plenty of cloth to catch spillages off the engine and paint work. For the record bleeding mine made sod all diffrence just a load of black parcticles came flying out indicating a seal had gone. But I enjoyed the hunt as 'twer.
I am not up to a cylinder replacement, did a brake cylinder on one car once and it wasn't "funny" at all.
Fitted new slave cylinder to Cerb,put car back together & bled clutch & found clutch to be slipping.Have bled clutch again & discovered seals have gone in the master cylinder,so now got to replace them(footwell full of clutch fluid).Any tips on doin job would be welcome,do you have to remove the master cylinder or can you dis-assemble it from inside the car with it in situ?Are the bolts a b*****d to remove/replace if you remove the master cylinder?Im hoping this sorts it or its gonna be a new clutch!
esso said:
Fitted new slave cylinder to Cerb,put car back together & bled clutch & found clutch to be slipping.Have bled clutch again & discovered seals have gone in the master cylinder,so now got to replace them(footwell full of clutch fluid).Any tips on doin job would be welcome,do you have to remove the master cylinder or can you dis-assemble it from inside the car with it in situ?Are the bolts a b*****d to remove/replace if you remove the master cylinder?Im hoping this sorts it or its gonna be a new clutch!
One of those straightforward but PINA jobs.
Undo from inside the footwell, but you may need someone to help stop the nuts turning
on the other side.
southendpier said:
lots of helpful info on these forums - so best to do a quick search. 2 man job. although I have nexver used an ezibleed kit (sp?)
Lift bonnet!
Take off the large f/glass cover at the back of the engine bay held on by 2 allen headed bolts above either wing, of different lengths, so rember which goes where. This is a lttle awkward to get out, make sure you disconnect the washer pipes from the wipers so the can feed through. When you lift it out mid the paintwork!!!
The tricky bit is getting to the master cylinder under the f/glass cover on the driver side inner wing. It is covered in silicon sealant and held down by 3 (in my case) screws. Took ages of chopping at the sealant to free it! like working in the effing bathroon!! The bleed nipple is easy to find, end of a metal mesh covered pipe about the size of a pencil, just in front of the drivers windscreen.
Hum, found the bleed pipe easily but decided against chopping off all the silican sealant as I didn't have time or the sealent to finish it today. I'll add that to the jobs to do at Christmas.
Not much room though so go slowly get a small recepticle to catch the old fluid (i cut down a plastic bottle). Oh, and use plenty of cloth to catch spillages off the engine and paint work. For the record bleeding mine made sod all diffrence just a load of black parcticles came flying out indicating a seal had gone. But I enjoyed the hunt as 'twer.
I am not up to a cylinder replacement, did a brake cylinder on one car once and it wasn't "funny" at all.
Lift bonnet!
Take off the large f/glass cover at the back of the engine bay held on by 2 allen headed bolts above either wing, of different lengths, so rember which goes where. This is a lttle awkward to get out, make sure you disconnect the washer pipes from the wipers so the can feed through. When you lift it out mid the paintwork!!!
The tricky bit is getting to the master cylinder under the f/glass cover on the driver side inner wing. It is covered in silicon sealant and held down by 3 (in my case) screws. Took ages of chopping at the sealant to free it! like working in the effing bathroon!! The bleed nipple is easy to find, end of a metal mesh covered pipe about the size of a pencil, just in front of the drivers windscreen.
Hum, found the bleed pipe easily but decided against chopping off all the silican sealant as I didn't have time or the sealent to finish it today. I'll add that to the jobs to do at Christmas.
Not much room though so go slowly get a small recepticle to catch the old fluid (i cut down a plastic bottle). Oh, and use plenty of cloth to catch spillages off the engine and paint work. For the record bleeding mine made sod all diffrence just a load of black parcticles came flying out indicating a seal had gone. But I enjoyed the hunt as 'twer.
I am not up to a cylinder replacement, did a brake cylinder on one car once and it wasn't "funny" at all.
Bad design! If you imagine a piston coming out of its housing, and the seals, 2 of them, are in the housing. The piston pushes out and is held in place and supported by the 2 seals. Because the clutch overthrows - thats the reason why the clutch fingers can break - the piston is only supported at one end, and can go off centre causing strain and premature fatigue of the seals.
The Clevor Trevor one has 3 seals to help prevent this.
PS After writing this, I have a picture in my head now of 2 seals working the piston
I dunno, the things drugs do to you !!
The Clevor Trevor one has 3 seals to help prevent this.
PS After writing this, I have a picture in my head now of 2 seals working the piston
I dunno, the things drugs do to you !!
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