Can't get sump nut off!!!
Discussion
When you do get it off I'd recommend changing it for a Steve Heath Sump Plug. They're less likely to come undone on a speed bump and are easy to tighten & remove with a 10mm hex key.
). That usually does the trick!
poorpet,see if you can borrow a proper fitting socket & breaker bar,and try, just pull even and dont let the leverage go sideways...and be careful watch the welds around the threaded portion as you try,i would hate the sump plug tightness to overcome the strentgh of the welds and the whole lot tears out,unlikely but possible.good luck.
You've tried the usual tricks, yes?
1/ Try tightening it a touch first. Sometimes it's easier and will break it loose enough to undo. You're unlikely to strip the threads in something that large.
2/ Impact. Get a spanner on there that's a damn good fit, or a good quality socket and fixed wrench/breaker bar (not a ratchet as you will break it), and then whack it a firm blow with a lump hammer. You may have to undo the exhaust to get clearance for a socket. A proper flat spanner will grip better than a 12 point ring as it torques onto the flats not the points - provided it is a good fit. Just to make sure it is really snug get an old feeler gauge on one of the flats then tap the spanner on over it with a hammer.
3/ Releasing oil, good soak, preferably overnight.
4/ Heat. Not the nut, the surrounding area. A good blast out in the car should do it, otherwise apply blow torch to sump pan in the vicinity.
5/ Combination of all the above.
Hope I'm not trying to teach grannie to suck eggs! Good luck with it.
1/ Try tightening it a touch first. Sometimes it's easier and will break it loose enough to undo. You're unlikely to strip the threads in something that large.
2/ Impact. Get a spanner on there that's a damn good fit, or a good quality socket and fixed wrench/breaker bar (not a ratchet as you will break it), and then whack it a firm blow with a lump hammer. You may have to undo the exhaust to get clearance for a socket. A proper flat spanner will grip better than a 12 point ring as it torques onto the flats not the points - provided it is a good fit. Just to make sure it is really snug get an old feeler gauge on one of the flats then tap the spanner on over it with a hammer.
3/ Releasing oil, good soak, preferably overnight.
4/ Heat. Not the nut, the surrounding area. A good blast out in the car should do it, otherwise apply blow torch to sump pan in the vicinity.
5/ Combination of all the above.
Hope I'm not trying to teach grannie to suck eggs! Good luck with it.
Edited by victormeldrew on Monday 27th November 11:22
The better fitting spanner is a good idea for sure! Don't forget the feeler gauge trick above though, even the best can sometimes be improved on.
With a long pole you will be exerting a continuous and high torque to the nut and its surroundings. While the lump hammer might sound like a rough bodge, it is actually less likely to do damage if applied correctly. The shock loading should free the nut without too much torque being applied to the sump itself. Honest! It does need a VERY snugly fitted spanner to avoid the spanner slipping and rounding the nut - and an accurate blow to the spanner for the same reason.
With a long pole you will be exerting a continuous and high torque to the nut and its surroundings. While the lump hammer might sound like a rough bodge, it is actually less likely to do damage if applied correctly. The shock loading should free the nut without too much torque being applied to the sump itself. Honest! It does need a VERY snugly fitted spanner to avoid the spanner slipping and rounding the nut - and an accurate blow to the spanner for the same reason.
I sympathise, part of the issue is the amount of leverage available under ramps.
One optioin I've tried before on another car is to book it into a garage simply for an oil change even Halfrauds @£25. The ramps and professional tools may allow the required leverage to release the bolt or if they mess it up a claim for a new sump. You could always ake a new plug with you if the original is becoming rounded due to all the pressure.
I would also check the filter tightness if doing it yourself
One optioin I've tried before on another car is to book it into a garage simply for an oil change even Halfrauds @£25. The ramps and professional tools may allow the required leverage to release the bolt or if they mess it up a claim for a new sump. You could always ake a new plug with you if the original is becoming rounded due to all the pressure.
I would also check the filter tightness if doing it yourself
Hi,
On my '92 built car its 1 1/8" AF.
Not so easy to get decent quality larger size imperial these days, got mine as unused ex ministry off ebay.
The nearest fitting metric is 29mm, though thats a sloppy fit, dont use or you will definately damage the head. You could carefully file out a 28mm OE a fraction to fit if you get stuck
Good luck, Steve
On my '92 built car its 1 1/8" AF.
Not so easy to get decent quality larger size imperial these days, got mine as unused ex ministry off ebay.
The nearest fitting metric is 29mm, though thats a sloppy fit, dont use or you will definately damage the head. You could carefully file out a 28mm OE a fraction to fit if you get stuck
Good luck, Steve
Had the same problem recently. In the end, with the car jacked up and well supported, I fitted my largest adjustable as tightly as possible - lots of wiggling and tightening, and then gave it a well aimed "stamp" whilst sat under the front end. 2 hefty kicks and it loosened of nicely.
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff