Door trim removal.
Door trim removal.
Author
Discussion

vladd

Original Poster:

8,136 posts

287 months

Sunday 23rd March 2003
quotequote all
My passenger side window has gone down (oo er!!) but will not go back up. I'm trying to remove the door trim to have a look but can't get the nut nearest the door hinge off (the one you get to through the speaker hole). Does anyone have any suggestions or know of any tool that will help me do this.

Thanks.

JSG

2,238 posts

305 months

Sunday 23rd March 2003
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Can you get your hand up to feel the nut? The threaded bit goes through the door from the top of the arm-rest / door pull and if it is original will have a small nut on it. You can get a small socket on it and undo with that (easier than a spanner.

Good tip when putting it back together is to use wing-nuts instead as these can be done up / undone next time by hand.

vladd

Original Poster:

8,136 posts

287 months

Monday 24th March 2003
quotequote all
Unforunately I can't get a socket onto the nut as the window is too close to the top of the bolt. I guess I'll just have to try and get a long handled spanner.

dern

14,055 posts

301 months

Monday 24th March 2003
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vladd said: Unforunately I can't get a socket onto the nut as the window is too close to the top of the bolt. I guess I'll just have to try and get a long handled spanner.
Did you have the window wound down to do this? Try it with the window up and you should have loads of room (relatively).

Regards,

Mark

Podie

46,647 posts

297 months

Monday 24th March 2003
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dern said:

vladd said: Unforunately I can't get a socket onto the nut as the window is too close to the top of the bolt. I guess I'll just have to try and get a long handled spanner.
Did you have the window wound down to do this? Try it with the window up and you should have loads of room (relatively).

Regards,

Mark




er... Dern... the whole point is that the window is stuck down...!

shmern

347 posts

277 months

Monday 24th March 2003
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dern said:

vladd said: Unforunately I can't get a socket onto the nut as the window is too close to the top of the bolt. I guess I'll just have to try and get a long handled spanner.
Did you have the window wound down to do this? Try it with the window up and you should have loads of room (relatively).

Regards,

Mark





Erm.... this would appear to be the reason he's removing the panel

'My passenger side window has gone down (oo er!!) but will not go back up'

Sounds like a long handled spanner and small hands are in order.

Shmern

PeterC

386 posts

291 months

Monday 24th March 2003
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There are usually two small nuts to undo (as per my S3). You will find it impossible to get at them with the window in the down position, but try this...

Can you press inwards on the door trim at the point of the nut & bolt? Applying pressure at this point will make it easier to undo the nut with only your fingers.

If this fails...
You could try to dismantle to window slide or motor connections to allow you to raise the glass by hand? I've NOT done this myself but it might work?

Good Luck!

dern

14,055 posts

301 months

Monday 24th March 2003
quotequote all

er... Dern... the whole point is that the window is stuck down...!
Oops , sorry.

GreenV8S

30,999 posts

306 months

Monday 24th March 2003
quotequote all

My passenger side window has gone down (oo er!!) but will not go back up. I'm trying to remove the door trim to have a look but can't get the nut nearest the door hinge off (the one you get to through the speaker hole). Does anyone have any suggestions or know of any tool that will help me do this.

Thanks.


It must be possible with the window down, but it will be so much easier with the window up that I'd encourage you to do that if at all possible. Do you get any sign of life from the motor at all when you try to raise the window? If so, you should be able to raise the window by pulling up hard on the glass while the motor is on. If not, you have an electrical problem and if you're lucking you may be able to fix this without going inside the door. I would start by checking the switches themselves (swap left to right and see if that cures it) also check for damage where the wires pass through the gap between the body and the door, they tend to get crushed and break here. If that isn't it, get an insulation piercing probe on the wires here and confirm you're getting a voltage, this at least tells you whether the problem is in the door or not. You may still be left having to get inside the door, in which case it's time for finger tips through the ash tray and speaker holes.

Best of luck, getting at the insides of the door is a frustrating job at the best of times.

pete_w

646 posts

285 months

Monday 24th March 2003
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Mine was stuck in the up position, the (electrical) connector within the door was the fault (just needed some WD40 and pushing fully home). If the swapping the switches idea doesn't work, look for the connector inside the bottom of the door. There should be clearance to get in there through the speaker hole with the window down, but you may need to employ a small child if there isn't.

>> Edited by pete_w on Monday 24th March 15:09

andyf007

863 posts

280 months

Monday 24th March 2003
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Try the switch first, mine does the same thing. It's a poor contact on the up. Simple test is to pull the switch out and take the top wire off and swap it for the wire on the bottom tab on the switch, then press the down arrow and if the window goes back up again, get a new switch. That's assuming the switch is wired the same as mine.

Andy

Mikey W

10 posts

281 months

Tuesday 25th March 2003
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If it's any comfort, exactly the same happened to me and I did manage to get the trim off with the window down. However, it's a complete bd of a job and I only managed it by removing the ash tray so that I could get both hands on the job.

I thought the loom might have broken, where it leads from the door to the body (not the best of all installations), but it turned out ot be a corroded connector - easily repaired by scratching the crud off with a small penknife.

Be prepared for about an hour's worth of and "slightly" sore hands, where the prongs that secure the ash tray take the skin off the back of your hand.

GreenV8S

30,999 posts

306 months

Tuesday 25th March 2003
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Be prepared for about an hour's worth of and "slightly" sore hands, where the prongs that secure the ash tray take the skin off the back of your hand.



Unless you've got really small hands and don't mind losing skin I'd suggest you start by ripping that metal frame off the door, otherwise it's a pain - literally. When you come to refit the ashtray, wrap a couple of turns of tape round the outside of the ashtray to make it a push fit in the hole.

taffstalini

193 posts

283 months

Tuesday 1st April 2003
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I see what you mean, this hinge realy is going to be a pain!

shpub

8,507 posts

294 months

Tuesday 1st April 2003
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Get some barrier cream and rub well into hands. Helps stops getting GRP grazes....

vladd

Original Poster:

8,136 posts

287 months

Thursday 3rd April 2003
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As it turns out it was a faulty switch, so thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

Just as a matter of interest, my ashtrays are fitted as part of centre console/dash (just below the cigarette lighter), not in the doors. Was this an S2 thing or again is it a case where it just varies from car to car.

shpub

8,507 posts

294 months

Thursday 3rd April 2003
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Each car is a production run of one....

roy c

4,207 posts

306 months

Thursday 3rd April 2003
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vladd said:Just as a matter of interest, my ashtrays are fitted as part of centre console/dash (just below the cigarette lighter), not in the doors. Was this an S2 thing or again is it a case where it just varies from car to car.

It varies from car to car. The ashtrays on my S2 are in the doors.

roy c

4,207 posts

306 months

Thursday 3rd April 2003
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shpub said: Each car is a production run of one....

...and all subsequently modified!