Discussion
What is the best method of running in, is it driving it fairly slowly, keeping to the rev limits as per the manual and being gentle? Or is it the Motoman method of driving it hard up to the rev limit specified in the manual and letting the revs drop off equally hard as per www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secre for the first few hundred miles in order to supposedly bed in the piston rings? All well-informed opinions welcome.
Thinking back to my days of flying piston engined aeroplanes (also flat six) the running in process was absolutely cruicial for longevity etc.
Factory asked for high power settings (75%), but also asked for power to be varied down to 65% and 55% at intervals. Essential not to keep power at a constant setting for prolonged period.
For what it is worth.
Factory asked for high power settings (75%), but also asked for power to be varied down to 65% and 55% at intervals. Essential not to keep power at a constant setting for prolonged period.
For what it is worth.
From my reading you're trying to compromise between high cylinder pressures (maximum torque) which will get behind the rings and push them hard out against the bores so they wear properly against the factory honing on the cylinder linings, causing improved sealing. And keeping the bottom end cool.
The two things operate against each other though so you shouldn't keep it under hard load for too long.
Therefore brutal hard acceleration for short bursts followed by overrun and short periods of low load for the oil to get through the bottom end and cool it off a bit seems a reasonable approach.
I've run in several engines including racing motorbikes and have never had a problem with them -- indeed all my bikes seemed to go better than other examples of the same models.
If you take the easy option and pussy about I understand that the factory honing will disappear/glaze over before the rings have had a chance to wear themselves smooth so you'll end up with less compression than you could. Seems to me that the factory give overly nannying running in procedures so that they get less warranty claims from eejits thrashing the living hell out of the engine, continuously, right from the get go.
I think my info comes from smokey yunick and kevin cameron IIRC.
SM
edited to add: frick me I just read your page and it seems he agrees with me
The two things operate against each other though so you shouldn't keep it under hard load for too long.
Therefore brutal hard acceleration for short bursts followed by overrun and short periods of low load for the oil to get through the bottom end and cool it off a bit seems a reasonable approach.
I've run in several engines including racing motorbikes and have never had a problem with them -- indeed all my bikes seemed to go better than other examples of the same models.
If you take the easy option and pussy about I understand that the factory honing will disappear/glaze over before the rings have had a chance to wear themselves smooth so you'll end up with less compression than you could. Seems to me that the factory give overly nannying running in procedures so that they get less warranty claims from eejits thrashing the living hell out of the engine, continuously, right from the get go.
I think my info comes from smokey yunick and kevin cameron IIRC.
SM
edited to add: frick me I just read your page and it seems he agrees with me
Edited by supermono on Wednesday 29th November 12:43
The worst thing to do is make the engine labour, so use plenty of revs and vary the speed.
Make sure the car is upto temp (not water temp, oil temp, can take upto 10 mins if its cold)
Avoid full throttle for the 1st 50 miles or so (just to make sure everything is torqued correctly) but dont hand around I reckon 75% of revs is OK in the 1st 50, after that full revs and acceleration just not for long periods.
The biggest issue I have had is that not just the engine needs to run in. All moving components (suspension, steering, gearbox, etc) need to be run in aswell and slow driving means these areas are not being full stressed.
Finally don't forget the brakes, got a freind at an OPC and sees loads of cars come back with glazed pads as if you drive gently you tend to brake gently and trail, not good on new pads and discs.
Also most manufacturers run your brand new engine on a test bed at full revs for a set period of time. Accept it is not under load, but this doesn't fit with their running in instructions.
As with all things in life, Porshce have to deal with the lowest common sense and protect them selves for the car being thrased from cold when new.
Jeweller
Make sure the car is upto temp (not water temp, oil temp, can take upto 10 mins if its cold)
Avoid full throttle for the 1st 50 miles or so (just to make sure everything is torqued correctly) but dont hand around I reckon 75% of revs is OK in the 1st 50, after that full revs and acceleration just not for long periods.
The biggest issue I have had is that not just the engine needs to run in. All moving components (suspension, steering, gearbox, etc) need to be run in aswell and slow driving means these areas are not being full stressed.
Finally don't forget the brakes, got a freind at an OPC and sees loads of cars come back with glazed pads as if you drive gently you tend to brake gently and trail, not good on new pads and discs.
Also most manufacturers run your brand new engine on a test bed at full revs for a set period of time. Accept it is not under load, but this doesn't fit with their running in instructions.
As with all things in life, Porshce have to deal with the lowest common sense and protect them selves for the car being thrased from cold when new.
Jeweller
jeweller said:
The worst thing to do is make the engine labour, so use plenty of revs and vary the speed.
Make sure the car is upto temp (not water temp, oil temp, can take upto 10 mins if its cold)
Avoid full throttle for the 1st 50 miles or so (just to make sure everything is torqued correctly) but dont hand around I reckon 75% of revs is OK in the 1st 50, after that full revs and acceleration just not for long periods.
The biggest issue I have had is that not just the engine needs to run in. All moving components (suspension, steering, gearbox, etc) need to be run in aswell and slow driving means these areas are not being full stressed.
Finally don't forget the brakes, got a freind at an OPC and sees loads of cars come back with glazed pads as if you drive gently you tend to brake gently and trail, not good on new pads and discs.
Also most manufacturers run your brand new engine on a test bed at full revs for a set period of time. Accept it is not under load, but this doesn't fit with their running in instructions.
As with all things in life, Porshce have to deal with the lowest common sense and protect them selves for the car being thrased from cold when new.
Jeweller
Agree with most points but you need to get the rings to seal in the first few miles. This means plenty of acceleration and engine braking. The brakes will be new and therefore flat (not much to run in), but will need some. Make sure the car is upto temp (not water temp, oil temp, can take upto 10 mins if its cold)
Avoid full throttle for the 1st 50 miles or so (just to make sure everything is torqued correctly) but dont hand around I reckon 75% of revs is OK in the 1st 50, after that full revs and acceleration just not for long periods.
The biggest issue I have had is that not just the engine needs to run in. All moving components (suspension, steering, gearbox, etc) need to be run in aswell and slow driving means these areas are not being full stressed.
Finally don't forget the brakes, got a freind at an OPC and sees loads of cars come back with glazed pads as if you drive gently you tend to brake gently and trail, not good on new pads and discs.
Also most manufacturers run your brand new engine on a test bed at full revs for a set period of time. Accept it is not under load, but this doesn't fit with their running in instructions.
As with all things in life, Porshce have to deal with the lowest common sense and protect them selves for the car being thrased from cold when new.
Jeweller
Avoid long periods idling in the first hour. Make sure you use the engine properly in the first few miles but NO slogging. Warm it up first with light throttle over 2k but probably below 4k. Once you're happy it's done the main run-in, change the oil.
Any manufacturing faults (torques, bearings etc) will fail with any engine use and have mainly been screened by the factory thrash, just concentrate on the rings and be kind to the cam (no idling).
Gassing Station | Porsche General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff