Removing the fuses
Discussion
I systematically removed every fuse when I was looking for a problem not so long ago, it didn't seem to cause any problems at all.
Oh, heres a couple of tips for you Wildfire
If you haven't got a fuse remover - like tweezers with a bit of a hook at the end - try to get one. It will make pulling them out a whole load easier (I think Vauxhalls have them in the glovebox
)
Put them back in using your fingers though, and be careful not to use much force shoving the fuses in, its easy to locate the pins down the side of the connector rather than in it. You'll get the 'feel' of it quickly.
Shove an old towel or something over the battery before you start. It will stop you arcing anything onto the battery terminals as well as catching fuse/tools you drop and stop them disappearing down the back or side of the battery.
Put something very padded on the floor next to the passenger seat or your knees will grumble something wicked the following day.
Have fun
Oh, heres a couple of tips for you Wildfire
If you haven't got a fuse remover - like tweezers with a bit of a hook at the end - try to get one. It will make pulling them out a whole load easier (I think Vauxhalls have them in the glovebox
) Put them back in using your fingers though, and be careful not to use much force shoving the fuses in, its easy to locate the pins down the side of the connector rather than in it. You'll get the 'feel' of it quickly.
Shove an old towel or something over the battery before you start. It will stop you arcing anything onto the battery terminals as well as catching fuse/tools you drop and stop them disappearing down the back or side of the battery.
Put something very padded on the floor next to the passenger seat or your knees will grumble something wicked the following day.
Have fun
barreti said:
I systematically removed every fuse when I was looking for a problem not so long ago, it didn't seem to cause any problems at all.
Oh, heres a couple of tips for you Wildfire
If you haven't got a fuse remover - like tweezers with a bit of a hook at the end - try to get one. It will make pulling them out a whole load easier (I think Vauxhalls have them in the glovebox)
Put them back in using your fingers though, and be careful not to use much force shoving the fuses in, its easy to locate the pins down the side of the connector rather than in it. You'll get the 'feel' of it quickly.
Shove an old towel or something over the battery before you start. It will stop you arcing anything onto the battery terminals as well as catching fuse/tools you drop and stop them disappearing down the back or side of the battery.
Put something very padded on the floor next to the passenger seat or your knees will grumble something wicked the following day.
Have fun
Oh, heres a couple of tips for you Wildfire
If you haven't got a fuse remover - like tweezers with a bit of a hook at the end - try to get one. It will make pulling them out a whole load easier (I think Vauxhalls have them in the glovebox
) Put them back in using your fingers though, and be careful not to use much force shoving the fuses in, its easy to locate the pins down the side of the connector rather than in it. You'll get the 'feel' of it quickly.
Shove an old towel or something over the battery before you start. It will stop you arcing anything onto the battery terminals as well as catching fuse/tools you drop and stop them disappearing down the back or side of the battery.
Put something very padded on the floor next to the passenger seat or your knees will grumble something wicked the following day.
Have fun
Cheers!
Unfortunately the car is stuck in the garage and is immobile so I have no choice but to operate upside down in the footwell, with a torch. I'm going to have a go at it either tomorrow evening or Wednesday morning.
Pasco said:
Whats the problem Wildfire?
Something has caused the car to imobilise it's fuel pump and I can't get it to start.
When the car used to stall, sometimes I would have to arm and disarm the alarm to get the fuel pump to prime, before I could start.
As I was letting the car warm up the other day, the car suddenly died. I got no buzz from the fuel pump, so I tried to arm the alamr and nothing. I have power in the fobs, but the alarm does not respond.
The interior locking button does not work either. So I guess that the alarm has failed and disabled the fuel pump. It is quite luck as I was just about to set off and would have been going down the road as when it failed.
I had just plugged my Road Angel in for the first time. This couldn't have blown anything could it??
I would like to get the car running so I can take it for a new alarm, or just get the car running again, before the battery goes flat as I have no power in my garage.
Chris,
The fuel pump is activated by the ecu. When the ecu switches on, the ecu pulls the return from the fuel pump relay low, which switches the fuel pump relay and hence the fuel pump on for 5 secs. When the engine is tunring over or running the ecu holds this signal low permanently thus the fuel pump runs continuously. In other words, your problem may not be that the fuel pump is immobilised but that the ecu is immobilised.
Anyway back to basics:
Have you chekced the fuel pump cut-off switch?
If that's OK, if I were you I'd fish out the loose relays in the ecu loom and using a multimeter work out what wire does what. You might even see the immobiliser wires spliced into this loom, and be able to bypass them. Alternatively you should be able to wire an ignition switched feed to the fuel pump and/or ecu to get around the immobiliser. If you're still having trouble at the weekend, PM me and we'll sort out a phone call, when I can get into my footwell and talk you through what I mean. I've just done similar through having immobiliser problems of my own...
Ben.
The fuel pump is activated by the ecu. When the ecu switches on, the ecu pulls the return from the fuel pump relay low, which switches the fuel pump relay and hence the fuel pump on for 5 secs. When the engine is tunring over or running the ecu holds this signal low permanently thus the fuel pump runs continuously. In other words, your problem may not be that the fuel pump is immobilised but that the ecu is immobilised.
Anyway back to basics:
Have you chekced the fuel pump cut-off switch?
If that's OK, if I were you I'd fish out the loose relays in the ecu loom and using a multimeter work out what wire does what. You might even see the immobiliser wires spliced into this loom, and be able to bypass them. Alternatively you should be able to wire an ignition switched feed to the fuel pump and/or ecu to get around the immobiliser. If you're still having trouble at the weekend, PM me and we'll sort out a phone call, when I can get into my footwell and talk you through what I mean. I've just done similar through having immobiliser problems of my own...
Ben.
Cheers Ben
My mechanical skill is ok, but in electrics I am lost, especially when it comes to relasy etc.
Would any of this cause a problem with the alarm not arming or disarming and the central locking not to work. That is the reason I suspect the alarm. If I can't get the car sorted by Monday it will probably go somewhere to get sorted and it will be out the the evil Credit card as I am currently unemployed. I would prefer to be able to sort it my self.
My mechanical skill is ok, but in electrics I am lost, especially when it comes to relasy etc.
Would any of this cause a problem with the alarm not arming or disarming and the central locking not to work. That is the reason I suspect the alarm. If I can't get the car sorted by Monday it will probably go somewhere to get sorted and it will be out the the evil Credit card as I am currently unemployed. I would prefer to be able to sort it my self.
Chris,
Are you getting any power at all with the ignition on?
I would suspect the alarm too. If you've got no central locking and no fuel pump priming. If the fuel cut of had activated I cant see why it would cause the CL to not work.
I suppose the easiest place to check with the ignition on is the small wire on the starter, I believe this is straight from the ignition and with it on you should get 12v ( if you have dave beers hot start gizmo in ) 8ish volts without. If the Alarm is on you should get nothing there. (Please some correct me if i am wrong).
I take it you have found and checked the Alarm Fuse by now. If its ok can you get on a alarm wire at the unit and check for any voltage there? ( usually the thickest one).
Does the alarm have a Valet mode ( turn key in the back of the unit)if so might be worth turning it before checking above.
Have you called Carl Baker, he may be able to help you more very helpful chap.
BB
Are you getting any power at all with the ignition on?
I would suspect the alarm too. If you've got no central locking and no fuel pump priming. If the fuel cut of had activated I cant see why it would cause the CL to not work.
I suppose the easiest place to check with the ignition on is the small wire on the starter, I believe this is straight from the ignition and with it on you should get 12v ( if you have dave beers hot start gizmo in ) 8ish volts without. If the Alarm is on you should get nothing there. (Please some correct me if i am wrong).
I take it you have found and checked the Alarm Fuse by now. If its ok can you get on a alarm wire at the unit and check for any voltage there? ( usually the thickest one).
Does the alarm have a Valet mode ( turn key in the back of the unit)if so might be worth turning it before checking above.
Have you called Carl Baker, he may be able to help you more very helpful chap.
BB
Ballistic Banana said:
Chris,
Are you getting any power at all with the ignition on?
I would suspect the alarm too. If you've got no central locking and no fuel pump priming. If the fuel cut of had activated I cant see why it would cause the CL to not work.
I suppose the easiest place to check with the ignition on is the small wire on the starter, I believe this is straight from the ignition and with it on you should get 12v ( if you have dave beers hot start gizmo in ) 8ish volts without. If the Alarm is on you should get nothing there. (Please some correct me if i am wrong).
I take it you have found and checked the Alarm Fuse by now. If its ok can you get on a alarm wire at the unit and check for any voltage there? ( usually the thickest one).
Does the alarm have a Valet mode ( turn key in the back of the unit)if so might be worth turning it before checking above.
Have you called Carl Baker, he may be able to help you more very helpful chap.
BB
Are you getting any power at all with the ignition on?
I would suspect the alarm too. If you've got no central locking and no fuel pump priming. If the fuel cut of had activated I cant see why it would cause the CL to not work.
I suppose the easiest place to check with the ignition on is the small wire on the starter, I believe this is straight from the ignition and with it on you should get 12v ( if you have dave beers hot start gizmo in ) 8ish volts without. If the Alarm is on you should get nothing there. (Please some correct me if i am wrong).
I take it you have found and checked the Alarm Fuse by now. If its ok can you get on a alarm wire at the unit and check for any voltage there? ( usually the thickest one).
Does the alarm have a Valet mode ( turn key in the back of the unit)if so might be worth turning it before checking above.
Have you called Carl Baker, he may be able to help you more very helpful chap.
BB
Hi Simon
Yep got power to the whole car, I can crank the engine over but just no fuel pump.
I have no idea where the alarm fuse is
Carl thought it would be with the CDL, but they seem intact. Any idea where it is?Wildfire said:
Would any of this cause a problem with the alarm not arming or disarming and the central locking not to work.
The alarm misbehaving might cause the fuel pump not to operate as the immobilser will be similarly inperative. Not the other way round though.
Two simple things to check:
Are both courtesy light switches being pushed in with the doors closed? If the alarm thinks a door is open it may not respond. Try holding both switches in (eg taping them) and operating the alarm remote.
The alarm may have a seperate fuse in the 12v supply to the alarm unit. The alarm unit is likely to be well hidden, and the fuse maybe likewise - but have a poke around behind the dash (maybe remove the glovebox and stereo, or even the whole instrument panel and have a look see).
Also might be worth checking the door lock mechanism (access behind the carpet on the B pillar) to make sure everything looks OK. If a solenoid jammed one way or the other it may mess up the c/l and hence the alarm.
Good luck...
Although its a Selca alarm not the usual Meta one seen in TVRs, my alarm had a beserker not so long ago. It just went off and wouldn't reset.
I stuffed loads of towels etc around the alarm to keep it quiet and disconnected the battery for 24hrs. It very slowly got quieter and quieter and eventually died.
I then reattached the battery and then 'hey, isn't Robert your dads brother'
I stuffed loads of towels etc around the alarm to keep it quiet and disconnected the battery for 24hrs. It very slowly got quieter and quieter and eventually died.
I then reattached the battery and then 'hey, isn't Robert your dads brother'
It seems that I have lost power to the alarm and the Central Locking. As the doors do not lock and the alarm does not work.
If the alarm has died, would the central locking also be disabled?
I am going to have a good poke around, take out all the fuses and check them, and try and see up inside the glove box tomorrow.
If I have no luck it may be off to David Batty to have it looked at. If it does prove to be the alrm then I will get Carl Baker to fit a new one.
If the alarm has died, would the central locking also be disabled?
I am going to have a good poke around, take out all the fuses and check them, and try and see up inside the glove box tomorrow.
If I have no luck it may be off to David Batty to have it looked at. If it does prove to be the alrm then I will get Carl Baker to fit a new one.
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