Stranded! Electrical problem?
Discussion
Driving Chim home through London tonight, with temps running ~90 and the fan coming on and off OK, I noticed a severe drop in power (accelerator completely unresponsive, had to really work the clutch to move at all). Shortly after the stereo stopped making any noise (but still thought it was playing), and then cut out completely. Revs alternated between ~200 and ~1000, with sudden switches, and then the dash lights started flickering. I pulled into a side road, by which time it was having trouble idling, and switched off. The whole episode took <<5 mins.
My petrol tank sender is out of play at the moment, so to be on the safe side I put in the can of petrol that I keep in the boot (I'd only done ~120 since last fill-up, though). When I tried to re-start I got nothing. Thinking hot-start problem, I left the bonnet up for ~1h and re-tried. Still nothing. The pump primes, but the starter doesn't even cause the lights to dim.
I need to move it before the residents bay I left it in comes back into operation tomorrow morning. Thoughts?
My petrol tank sender is out of play at the moment, so to be on the safe side I put in the can of petrol that I keep in the boot (I'd only done ~120 since last fill-up, though). When I tried to re-start I got nothing. Thinking hot-start problem, I left the bonnet up for ~1h and re-tried. Still nothing. The pump primes, but the starter doesn't even cause the lights to dim.
I need to move it before the residents bay I left it in comes back into operation tomorrow morning. Thoughts?
Bit of a long shot, but I had a similar situation in my Stag a few years ago. The alternator was not charging and also the alternator warning light was not working, leading eventually to not enough charge in the battery.
Soln: If I am right, then a brand new, fully charged battery might let you drive a few miles, but no more, and especially not at night. I would call a breakdown service.
Edited to say: Having re-read the list of symptoms, I don't believe what I just wrote.
Are you around NW London? Hate to see a fellow 500 owner in trouble.
Soln: If I am right, then a brand new, fully charged battery might let you drive a few miles, but no more, and especially not at night. I would call a breakdown service.
Edited to say: Having re-read the list of symptoms, I don't believe what I just wrote.
Are you around NW London? Hate to see a fellow 500 owner in trouble.
Edited by leadfootlydon on Friday 8th December 20:07
Could well be; wouldn't cover the other symptoms, but could have happened because of the same root cause. Heading back early tomorrow with tools and a multimeter. Where's the best place to get a starter fuse in a hurry? Any other suspects? Might I have a high-current short, or do they just get fed up and die eventually?
leadfootlydon said:
Bit of a long shot, but I had a similar situation in my Stag a few years ago. The alternator was not charging and also the alternator warning light was not working, leading eventually to not enough charge in the battery.
Soln: If I am right, then a brand new, fully charged battery might let you drive a few miles, but no more, and especially not at night. I would call a breakdown service.
Edited to say: Having re-read the list of symptoms, I don't believe what I just wrote.
Are you around NW London? Hate to see a fellow 500 owner in trouble.
Soln: If I am right, then a brand new, fully charged battery might let you drive a few miles, but no more, and especially not at night. I would call a breakdown service.
Edited to say: Having re-read the list of symptoms, I don't believe what I just wrote.
Are you around NW London? Hate to see a fellow 500 owner in trouble.
Edited by leadfootlydon on Friday 8th December 20:07
Was in SW london. Got the tube home and will go to weep tend to her in the morning. Thanks for the support (and ideas), though.
Sorry to hear of your troubles.
While the stereo points to electrics, a running engine is running on petrol, so a dead battery or broken 100A alternator fuse should not cause you to stop, provided you don't stall (though either will stop you re-starting her). And anyway, you say the lights don't dim when you try to start.
You can have some very odd symptoms when you run out of petrol (been there), and though you topped her up my guess would still be a fueling problem. Possibly she got very low on fuel and some cr*p from the bottom of the tank is blocking the pipe ?
I would go back to her tomorrow and try her once. Take a mobile phone and your RAC number.
Good luck...
While the stereo points to electrics, a running engine is running on petrol, so a dead battery or broken 100A alternator fuse should not cause you to stop, provided you don't stall (though either will stop you re-starting her). And anyway, you say the lights don't dim when you try to start.
You can have some very odd symptoms when you run out of petrol (been there), and though you topped her up my guess would still be a fueling problem. Possibly she got very low on fuel and some cr*p from the bottom of the tank is blocking the pipe ?
I would go back to her tomorrow and try her once. Take a mobile phone and your RAC number.
Good luck...
grumbledoak said:
Sorry to hear of your troubles.
While the stereo points to electrics, a running engine is running on petrol, so a dead battery or broken 100A alternator fuse should not cause you to stop, provided you don't stall (though either will stop you re-starting her). And anyway, you say the lights don't dim when you try to start.
You can have some very odd symptoms when you run out of petrol (been there), and though you topped her up my guess would still be a fueling problem. Possibly she got very low on fuel and some cr*p from the bottom of the tank is blocking the pipe ?
I would go back to her tomorrow and try her once. Take a mobile phone and your RAC number.
Good luck...
While the stereo points to electrics, a running engine is running on petrol, so a dead battery or broken 100A alternator fuse should not cause you to stop, provided you don't stall (though either will stop you re-starting her). And anyway, you say the lights don't dim when you try to start.
You can have some very odd symptoms when you run out of petrol (been there), and though you topped her up my guess would still be a fueling problem. Possibly she got very low on fuel and some cr*p from the bottom of the tank is blocking the pipe ?
I would go back to her tomorrow and try her once. Take a mobile phone and your RAC number.
Good luck...
I'm just wondering if I had two problems; ran out of fuel + blown fuse (or...). Whilst starter fuse wouldn't cause any problems whilst running, a blocked fuel pipe wouldn't stop the starter from turning the engine... Or, at least, I assume not. Plus, other times when the starter hasn't been willing to turn (used to have the hot start issue) it would at least draw enough power to visibly affect the dash lights. So I don't think any juice is getting through.
Maybe I should have joined the RAC after all... I have got a phone, though
Hi Phil, I'll have another stab at this.
The engine faltering when hot is common, especially on the 500, but doesn't usually happen until 95 degrees or more. I have never understood why this is the case and assume a component is being forced outside its operating range. Once the engine cools down, normal idling returns. In your case the engine was not extremely hot, so, as you say, the rough idle may be a clue to a different type of fault.
The stereo going off and the dash lights flickering must be a major clue for someone who really knows how these cars work.
Have you got the Steve Heath bible?
Good luck.
The engine faltering when hot is common, especially on the 500, but doesn't usually happen until 95 degrees or more. I have never understood why this is the case and assume a component is being forced outside its operating range. Once the engine cools down, normal idling returns. In your case the engine was not extremely hot, so, as you say, the rough idle may be a clue to a different type of fault.
The stereo going off and the dash lights flickering must be a major clue for someone who really knows how these cars work.
Have you got the Steve Heath bible?
Good luck.
PhilipC said:
Maybe I should have joined the RAC after all... I have got a phone, though
It is quite brave to run a TVR without some form of coverage (though mine have been far more reliable than common-knowledge would suggest) !
The RAC will quite happily let you join from the roadside, and come and get you, should that be necessary.
From the website, 0800 731 7090, though my mobile says 0800 828282
Good luck tomorrow.
grumbledoak said:
Sorry to hear of your troubles.
While the stereo points to electrics, a running engine is running on petrol, so a dead battery or broken 100A alternator fuse should not cause you to stop,
While the stereo points to electrics, a running engine is running on petrol, so a dead battery or broken 100A alternator fuse should not cause you to stop,
Mine did!
100a fuse had fractured, so no charge getting through
Was approaching a roundabout and as I eased off the throttle she just died!
Marcos Maniac said:
100a fuse had fractured, so no charge getting through
Was approaching a roundabout and as I eased off the throttle she just died!
Was approaching a roundabout and as I eased off the throttle she just died!
Just to clarify 100A fuse blowing did not activate charge warning on dash.. Since you are not aware of problem battery runs flat.
Battery is not easy to access on the roadside, and fuse no better. In a normal car fuse replacement & jump start would suffice. You may have problem getting replacement fuse (100A strip) most canny owners carry a spare. Fuse is easy when car on ramps, and even then it is not unusual that the housing may be damaged... Battery is easy to jump if you can access the terminals without completely removing the box, but it may be neccessary to completely remove. Even then driving in London Sat morning may be risky...
I suspect if you are asking these questions its probably sensible to get help, be it a local owner, service dept or breakdown service. Discretion is the better part of valour - as they say
Dave
PS: Several owners have added voltmeter gauges for this very reason. Fixed convenience Charge / Jump leads to battery. Moved fuse inboard...
It was the starteralternator fuse. Who stocks them? Is it a phone call to Austek (or similar)? I'm in Greenwich, so the closer the better, really.
The sorry tail continues below.
Got it up on my axle stands and found the fuse's box. Utterly stuffed - the box itself shows signs of heat damage at the live end, presumably from sparking, since I think it had given in around where the live connection bolts on. Bound the two ends together with copious quantities of copper wire, and then insulated. That's got me back home, but I think spend is right, and my battery is now low, since when I got home the windows would only close with "encouragement" and it was faltering. I'll flip open the footwell and stick the charger on it; we'll see where we go from there.
However, that still leaves me short of a fuse. I'm really not happy driving around with it bypassed; normally fuses are there for a reason, and with something that'll carry as much current as a starter connection the risk is just too high. The guy at the MOT garage next to where I'd left the car (whew!) thought I was certifiable when I asked where I could get a 100A fuse in Tooting...
The sorry tail continues below.
Got it up on my axle stands and found the fuse's box. Utterly stuffed - the box itself shows signs of heat damage at the live end, presumably from sparking, since I think it had given in around where the live connection bolts on. Bound the two ends together with copious quantities of copper wire, and then insulated. That's got me back home, but I think spend is right, and my battery is now low, since when I got home the windows would only close with "encouragement" and it was faltering. I'll flip open the footwell and stick the charger on it; we'll see where we go from there.
However, that still leaves me short of a fuse. I'm really not happy driving around with it bypassed; normally fuses are there for a reason, and with something that'll carry as much current as a starter connection the risk is just too high. The guy at the MOT garage next to where I'd left the car (whew!) thought I was certifiable when I asked where I could get a 100A fuse in Tooting...
spend said:
Marcos Maniac said:
100a fuse had fractured, so no charge getting through
Was approaching a roundabout and as I eased off the throttle she just died!
Was approaching a roundabout and as I eased off the throttle she just died!
Just to clarify 100A fuse blowing did not activate charge warning on dash.. Since you are not aware of problem battery runs flat.
No warning on the dash? Is that normal on a Chimaera?
(On my Stag the charge warning light did not come on because a lead had fallen out. The voltmeter showed the battery charge gradually dropping, but I had missed the significance of that until it was too late).
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