Replacement Headlights
Discussion
Got it ! for some reason I searched on headLAMPs last time and didnt ge much, a search for headlights was better...
I'm still undecided between a fairly straight forward (traditional) swap to Wipac Quadoptics or to go for the clear crystal (modern) stuff that seem to have had mixed reviews from you guys out there... Performance is important but not critical as I will not be doing a lot of night time driving in the Tiv, but they do have to look right.
See you next time Harry eh ? but sounds like you had your priorities right.
I'm still undecided between a fairly straight forward (traditional) swap to Wipac Quadoptics or to go for the clear crystal (modern) stuff that seem to have had mixed reviews from you guys out there... Performance is important but not critical as I will not be doing a lot of night time driving in the Tiv, but they do have to look right.
See you next time Harry eh ? but sounds like you had your priorities right.
Tripps said:
Is it not worth going for a wiring upgrade kit instead to get a decent amount of power to each headlight?
A wiring upgrade kit ? how far do you rewire ? so if I fitted +30 or +40% bulbs would I need to upgrade the wiring ? who does them and at what cost? is it worth it?
what would happen if there was no such thing as a hyperthetical question ?
Kevin
The Wipac Quadoptic units are pretty mcuh the same as the stnadard units. Anything that fits the classic mini will fit the S. There is a huge amount of aftermarket lights for the mini.
What ROb is referring to is to re wire the lights so that each of them get a direct feed and as close as you can to a true 12V, rather than running both off one feed.
You will not have to upgrade the lights when fitting 30 or 40% brighter bulbs as these are just better bulbs. You will have to upgrade if you fit 90/100W as the wire may melt.
What ROb is referring to is to re wire the lights so that each of them get a direct feed and as close as you can to a true 12V, rather than running both off one feed.
You will not have to upgrade the lights when fitting 30 or 40% brighter bulbs as these are just better bulbs. You will have to upgrade if you fit 90/100W as the wire may melt.
Thanks for that guys
Graham - your car looks great but I just cant make out the lights to see the difference, pity we dint meet up at the last NE Meet.
Chris - thanks for the advice, I will take a look at the existing wiring. So to upgrade, should I take the supply from the switch to a relay and then supply the power to the lamps direct from the battery through the relay ?
I have plenty of time to do this work now as my car is laid up until May
so I will keep looking at S's with light conversions for a while before splashing out
cheers again
Graham - your car looks great but I just cant make out the lights to see the difference, pity we dint meet up at the last NE Meet.
Chris - thanks for the advice, I will take a look at the existing wiring. So to upgrade, should I take the supply from the switch to a relay and then supply the power to the lamps direct from the battery through the relay ?
I have plenty of time to do this work now as my car is laid up until May
so I will keep looking at S's with light conversions for a while before splashing out cheers again
Re Wiring Upgrade. This was well worth it on my S1.5.
I was only getting just over 10v at the bulb (engine off) before fitting four relays (L/R Main/Dip) which were fed from the battery (via fuses) and fitting new wires from the relays to the bulbs (including new waterprof connectors at the bonnet break) Used the old wiring to switch the relays. This got me back to 12 volts at the bulb, which combined with supposed +30% bulbs, has brought it up almost modern standards.
Note: Had to disconnect the dim dip, that does not work to well with relays.
Mick
I was only getting just over 10v at the bulb (engine off) before fitting four relays (L/R Main/Dip) which were fed from the battery (via fuses) and fitting new wires from the relays to the bulbs (including new waterprof connectors at the bonnet break) Used the old wiring to switch the relays. This got me back to 12 volts at the bulb, which combined with supposed +30% bulbs, has brought it up almost modern standards.
Note: Had to disconnect the dim dip, that does not work to well with relays.
Mick
I can definitley reccomend the Crystal Halogens. Fitted them to my S3 around 4 years ago when I had the car as I am pretty big into minis. basically they are a plastic bowl and lens with the beam pattern on the reflector, so the lens is clear and you can see the bulbs. Looked great with ice white bulbs and LED side lights, not totally leagl though. Down side to them is that if you fit 90/110W bulbs you can melt the bowl.
I can also reccomend the Wipac units. I have them on 2 minis and they are very good. If you can get a set of Lucas they are probably the nicest of the glass units as they curve a lot more. The Ring lights are best steered clear of, although they work well, especially for the price, the shape of them really isn't good. Although the fog/spot lamps by them make cheap replacements, which work very well.
I can also reccomend the Wipac units. I have them on 2 minis and they are very good. If you can get a set of Lucas they are probably the nicest of the glass units as they curve a lot more. The Ring lights are best steered clear of, although they work well, especially for the price, the shape of them really isn't good. Although the fog/spot lamps by them make cheap replacements, which work very well.
Just to explain why I'm looking at replacement TRIPPS, offside ic currently Cibie with some rusting on reflector, Nearside is something else ? but they are odd so I'm going to replace.
wiring upgrade makes sense so I will ensure I get 12v at the business end via relays etc
I'm still unsure about replacement lenses, crystal sound great and will be best performace I'm sure but will look very modern I think, I'm not a "preservation" type, but I do like the retro look of the S so I'm leaning towards the Wipacs...
thanks for all of the advice everyone. I will post before and after pics of whatever I do.
good news is as my weekend was stripped from me due to chimney needing swept, Pajero needing replacement air/oil and fuel filter and demands of son moving into new house, I never got time to put the S on axle stands so have decided to run it until end of xmas hols - assuming we get some decent weather ... Hooray !!!
wiring upgrade makes sense so I will ensure I get 12v at the business end via relays etc
I'm still unsure about replacement lenses, crystal sound great and will be best performace I'm sure but will look very modern I think, I'm not a "preservation" type, but I do like the retro look of the S so I'm leaning towards the Wipacs...
thanks for all of the advice everyone. I will post before and after pics of whatever I do.
good news is as my weekend was stripped from me due to chimney needing swept, Pajero needing replacement air/oil and fuel filter and demands of son moving into new house, I never got time to put the S on axle stands so have decided to run it until end of xmas hols - assuming we get some decent weather ... Hooray !!!
My understanding is that is the electrics to change your lighting system so one side runs off the current connection and the other runs off a brand new connection from the battery, thus giving a decent amount of power to each set of beams. I've seen them fitted on Griffs and Chims to great affect, at night it's almost as good as driving a normal car!
Details used to be here, but are a little scant right now.
Details used to be here, but are a little scant right now.
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