Why would a car run cool?
Why would a car run cool?
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stigproducts

Original Poster:

1,730 posts

288 months

Friday 15th December 2006
quotequote all
Thermostat? Replaced it with a higher temp one, no change at all

Gauge- well it seems to agree with the otter switch, it says 92 just as the fans kick in on the 92 otter switch so I reckon its right

Everything was fine until I took out the rad for repairs and since then it runs at about 75, whereas before it was sitting nicely at 85-90

It will get hot enought for the fans, but only if sitting still.

What else could this be, some sort of bizzare air lock??

Pigeon

18,535 posts

263 months

Friday 15th December 2006
quotequote all
Your repairs were more effective than you thought?

Thermostat not seating in its housing properly? Or some unpleasant casting porosity having the same effect? Plumbing error that could do it? (pretty unlikely)

You put a diesel engine in at the same time and didn't notice? If you wanna run cool, you got to run on diesel fuel.

ELAN+2

2,232 posts

249 months

Friday 15th December 2006
quotequote all
sounds like your rad repairs worked!! If the rads been flushed/re cored it could be more efficient, but could also be a dodgy temp guage, if its the old capillary effort, it could need re calibrating (speedy cables)

Mark

stigproducts

Original Poster:

1,730 posts

288 months

Friday 15th December 2006
quotequote all
Surely, irrespective of the effcientcy of the radiator, the thermostat would keep the engine at a consistent temperature? This is what I don't get.

Removing the rad was to fix a leak because it was poorly manufactured, that was all.

sneakyneil

9,259 posts

254 months

Friday 15th December 2006
quotequote all
Maybe it's worth putting the stat in a pan of water on the stove, to double check when it's opening?

apache

39,731 posts

301 months

Friday 15th December 2006
quotequote all
stigproducts said:
Surely, irrespective of the effcientcy of the radiator, the thermostat would keep the engine at a consistent temperature? This is what I don't get.

Removing the rad was to fix a leak because it was poorly manufactured, that was all.


Stat is only there to bypass the rad when cold, it reaches temp and opens all the way. It doesn't regulate flow or anything like that.

GreenV8S

30,956 posts

301 months

Friday 15th December 2006
quotequote all
What temperature do you think it should be running at? The gauge can't be relied on for accuracy unless you've calibrated it. If it's only reading 5-10 degrees cooler than you expect, I'd suspect the gauge is reading low and the engine was actually running too hot before.

There are really only two things that can make an engine run cool. Either water is flowing through the rad, or you have a severely cold air blast through the engine bay. Air blast cooling isn't going to matter unless you are crossing the arctic. The only way for water to get into the rad is to come past the stat. When the engine is only working gently in very cold weather, it only takes a tiny trickle of water through the radiator to cool it. Just a stat that fails to seat properly or has too many bleed holes drilled through it can be enough. But that's less likely to be the problem if it also happens in warmer weather and when the engine is working harder.

apache

39,731 posts

301 months

Friday 15th December 2006
quotequote all
There's the answer then, you might have had a different temp rating for the previous stat, can you dog it out of the bin and check?

stigproducts

Original Poster:

1,730 posts

288 months

Friday 15th December 2006
quotequote all
the 2 stats were different temperatures but it has made no difference. The stat is 88 so it should be about that temop, not 75 degrees (approx)

Maybe it is the colder weather??

apache

39,731 posts

301 months

Friday 15th December 2006
quotequote all
stigproducts said:
the 2 stats were different temperatures but it has made no difference. The stat is 88 so it should be about that temop, not 75 degrees (approx)

Maybe it is the colder weather??


Stig the numerical value on your gauge is largly meaningless, they are not calibrated so 88 actual degrees could possibly be an indicated 75. If your previous stat was, say 92 you might see 86 or something on the gauge

Pigeon

18,535 posts

263 months

Friday 15th December 2006
quotequote all
...also they don't bang open sharply at a precise temperature. For example, I have an 82 degree stat, with 82 written on it. The book of words (which is unusually comprehensive, being a Volvo item) describes the stat as "82 degrees - begins to open at 65, fully open at 82". Warming the engine up with a thermometer dipped in the rad confirms this.

jacko460c

97 posts

258 months

Friday 15th December 2006
quotequote all
If you had a leak the cooling system was not 100%. Now it is so runs cooler due to better efficiency.

that daddy

19,226 posts

238 months

Sunday 17th December 2006
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if thats an ESSEX V6 i would be happy with it running at 75 or just over 80 is better,dont use an 88 stat the rear 2 cylinders run too hot as it is(poor water pump placment),you can adjust the temp to your needs,the dimensions of your stat are really common for a stat,i used a NISSAN stats when i ran these engines years back,(dearer)but more reliable & consistant and dont stick shut ever.get your gauge checked out.

noneedtolift

884 posts

240 months

Sunday 17th December 2006
quotequote all
I would say it depends where your sensor for the gauge is located (if not in cylinder head) - might explain why the reading doesn't change once up the engine is up to its operating temp.

Edited by noneedtolift on Sunday 17th December 19:58

That Daddy

19,226 posts

238 months

Monday 18th December 2006
quotequote all
temp sender should be right next to the thermostat hole in the inlet manifold if memory serves.doodle to change, note the colour code on the old one when seeking replacment.ford should still be able to help.