MOT advice please
Discussion
Evening chaps, just need a little guidance following a few raised points on the wedges MOT failure today and would be grateful for some advice. 
a) Can anyone please confirm what car the rear axle comes from on a 1990 400SE?
b) anyone know where I can source the two position dash board mounted main light switch?
c) I am sure someone has very kindly posted on here detailing who to approach for front suspension bushes but being a
I cant find the post, sorry.
Kind regards all and thanks in advance
a) Can anyone please confirm what car the rear axle comes from on a 1990 400SE?
b) anyone know where I can source the two position dash board mounted main light switch?
c) I am sure someone has very kindly posted on here detailing who to approach for front suspension bushes but being a
I cant find the post, sorry. Kind regards all and thanks in advance
medieval said:
Evening chaps, just need a little guidance following a few raised points on the wedges MOT failure today and would be grateful for some advice.
a) Can anyone please confirm what car the rear axle comes from on a 1990 400SE?
b) anyone know where I can source the two position dash board mounted main light switch?
c) I am sure someone has very kindly posted on here detailing who to approach for front suspension bushes but being a I cant find the post, sorry.
Kind regards all and thanks in advance
a) Can anyone please confirm what car the rear axle comes from on a 1990 400SE?
b) anyone know where I can source the two position dash board mounted main light switch?
c) I am sure someone has very kindly posted on here detailing who to approach for front suspension bushes but being a
I cant find the post, sorry. Kind regards all and thanks in advance
"axle" comprises Salisbury Power Lok diff (LSD) per '70's Jag. XJ / XJS, plus TVR's own spec. driveshafts and wishbones. What part is causing problems?
The light switch is three position, including off - Lucas made, not sure if still available but they do have a habit of gumming up inside. Its worth removing the switch, carefully srtipping it down, cleaning etc. and testing.
I've got a paper-based manual on front suspension (cribbed by TVR from Ford). What particularly do you need - I could probably scan it?
7.
Many thanks No.7, the advice is much appreciated.
The rear axle failure relates simply to a failed oil seal allowing diff fluid to escape onto the one inboard brake disc - the garage wonder if the drive shafts clip into place or require full removal of the diff to remove?
The light switch will operate correctly if wiggled but its performance is intermittent - I wonder as you do if this is a dirty contact to the rear of the switch and will duly strip the switch this weekend and check but if not then I will need to source a replacement.
I think its the lower radius arm bushes that are worn but to be honest, the front handling is awful so I may replace all of the bushes. Was it Trackcar Solutions tat did a complete kit for circa £25 ish?
Best wishes
The rear axle failure relates simply to a failed oil seal allowing diff fluid to escape onto the one inboard brake disc - the garage wonder if the drive shafts clip into place or require full removal of the diff to remove?
The light switch will operate correctly if wiggled but its performance is intermittent - I wonder as you do if this is a dirty contact to the rear of the switch and will duly strip the switch this weekend and check but if not then I will need to source a replacement.
I think its the lower radius arm bushes that are worn but to be honest, the front handling is awful so I may replace all of the bushes. Was it Trackcar Solutions tat did a complete kit for circa £25 ish?
Best wishes
medieval said:
Many thanks No.7, the advice is much appreciated.
The rear axle failure relates simply to a failed oil seal allowing diff fluid to escape onto the one inboard brake disc - the garage wonder if the drive shafts clip into place or require full removal of the diff to remove?
The light switch will operate correctly if wiggled but its performance is intermittent - I wonder as you do if this is a dirty contact to the rear of the switch and will duly strip the switch this weekend and check but if not then I will need to source a replacement.
I think its the lower radius arm bushes that are worn but to be honest, the front handling is awful so I may replace all of the bushes. Was it Trackcar Solutions tat did a complete kit for circa £25 ish?
Best wishes
The rear axle failure relates simply to a failed oil seal allowing diff fluid to escape onto the one inboard brake disc - the garage wonder if the drive shafts clip into place or require full removal of the diff to remove?
The light switch will operate correctly if wiggled but its performance is intermittent - I wonder as you do if this is a dirty contact to the rear of the switch and will duly strip the switch this weekend and check but if not then I will need to source a replacement.
I think its the lower radius arm bushes that are worn but to be honest, the front handling is awful so I may replace all of the bushes. Was it Trackcar Solutions tat did a complete kit for circa £25 ish?
Best wishes
The inner end of the drive shaft is bolted to the diff., so the driveshaft can be disconnected at the inner end and swung to one side - you'll probably need to disconnect the tie bar from the hub carrier and slacken the two long bolts through the bottom of the hub carrier to allow it to swing out. You then need to remove the handbrake and main calipers (can be quite tricky with access to the bolts) which then allows the discs to come off.However, I'm not sure how the the diff flange is secured to the diff. - you'd need to get this off to get at the oil seal. A Jag manual should help. Some people actully drop the diff completely, and overhaul the brakes at the same time.
As for the switch / bushes, try RT Racing.
7.
The output shaft flange is secured by five bolts and once the callipers and discs have been removed it's an easy job to replace the seal, you may need a new lock tab for the shaft as well.
Do these axles come in the Jaguar carrier or are they mounted directly to the chassis on Wedges? Sorry I don't know a lot about Wedges but Jaguar rear ends are the bain of my life
PS: be careful with the bearing as depending on the diff you have some are irreplaceable
Do these axles come in the Jaguar carrier or are they mounted directly to the chassis on Wedges? Sorry I don't know a lot about Wedges but Jaguar rear ends are the bain of my life
PS: be careful with the bearing as depending on the diff you have some are irreplaceable
Edited by falcemob on Tuesday 2nd January 21:07
Hi
When I had the same leak on my diff, I also had to replace the seals, not an easy job even with proper garage equipment, as on my there was a crush bearing that needed a lopt of force to crush correctly. I did it in situ but on a proper garage ramp so access from underneath was slightly easier to the rear brake calipers
good luck
Will also be doing my front bushes and fit the steve heath rose joints to the antiroll bar soon, and would like to know what other bushes to get and where from - a kit would be useful, and then doing rear bushes
There was someone on here not recomending poly bushes as replacement for the front suspension ( I think may have been RT Racing ?) as they are softer than the original - any one have any coments / views on this ?
If and when I fit the Steve Heath antiroll bar earings is it best to replace the other 2 bushes attaching to the chassis, and if so with poly or rubber ?
When I had the same leak on my diff, I also had to replace the seals, not an easy job even with proper garage equipment, as on my there was a crush bearing that needed a lopt of force to crush correctly. I did it in situ but on a proper garage ramp so access from underneath was slightly easier to the rear brake calipers
good luck
Will also be doing my front bushes and fit the steve heath rose joints to the antiroll bar soon, and would like to know what other bushes to get and where from - a kit would be useful, and then doing rear bushes
There was someone on here not recomending poly bushes as replacement for the front suspension ( I think may have been RT Racing ?) as they are softer than the original - any one have any coments / views on this ?
If and when I fit the Steve Heath antiroll bar earings is it best to replace the other 2 bushes attaching to the chassis, and if so with poly or rubber ?
Rear Diff - 70's Jas as already posted.
Light switch - As others have said, they do gum-up (as do all the other dash mounted switches). I have always been able to take them out, clean contacts up with a bit of wet and dry, a spot of WD40 and reassemble them. Always worked fine with me.
If you find a place that sell Triumph spares - Moss Brothers, Laceys, David Manners to name but a few, most Triumph spares are remanufactured so You can pick up a TR7 light switch which will do the job just fine.
L33.
Light switch - As others have said, they do gum-up (as do all the other dash mounted switches). I have always been able to take them out, clean contacts up with a bit of wet and dry, a spot of WD40 and reassemble them. Always worked fine with me.
If you find a place that sell Triumph spares - Moss Brothers, Laceys, David Manners to name but a few, most Triumph spares are remanufactured so You can pick up a TR7 light switch which will do the job just fine.
L33.
Superflex do the wedge suspension bushes. They also sell arb bush clamps that take two bolts rather than the original bolt and tongue design which has a habit of pulling loose - the SH rose jointed drop links seem to make this happen more often (on our 400SE anyway) as they work better and probably transmit higher loads/forces to the arb.
You can also get the superflex bits from Motorsportworld , they take cards wheras Superflex needs a cheque with order posted.
No firm data on the poly harder/softer issue except that the Superflex arb bushes were softer than the ones on the 400SE (or the one left after one of the clamps pulled loose) however this was already poly not rubber and very hard. The ride in our 400SE which is fully poly bushed feels much harsher than our 350i which is mainly rubber bushed, this seems to give better overall grip but is not as nice to drive especially on less than perfect surfaces. Just my opinion though.
If you are getting the diff done you might want to get the UJs checked at the same time, the bits come to under £70 a side - so if they are off anyway...
Likewise the rear caliper pistons and seals - I have a spare seal set if you are interested (worth a try )
You can also get the superflex bits from Motorsportworld , they take cards wheras Superflex needs a cheque with order posted.
No firm data on the poly harder/softer issue except that the Superflex arb bushes were softer than the ones on the 400SE (or the one left after one of the clamps pulled loose) however this was already poly not rubber and very hard. The ride in our 400SE which is fully poly bushed feels much harsher than our 350i which is mainly rubber bushed, this seems to give better overall grip but is not as nice to drive especially on less than perfect surfaces. Just my opinion though.
If you are getting the diff done you might want to get the UJs checked at the same time, the bits come to under £70 a side - so if they are off anyway...
Likewise the rear caliper pistons and seals - I have a spare seal set if you are interested (worth a try
)
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