New Rear Brake pads, disks and calipers-Where and what???
Discussion
Right then...
One side of the car is dismantled and one side worth of the calipers, disk and pads are removed. Good!
Next, where can i get pads, disks and calipers from?? Ive been looking at getting Black Diamond disks and pads which i think i have managed to trace to a a Jaguar Soverign 4.2 (1983-1994) Does this sound right? Tehe pads match their online shape thingy bobby so i guess so.
Has anyone got any ideas for calipers? Know anyone who does refubs to try and keep the every rising cost down?!
Quite frightening really.
...i knew that they needed replaceing but didnt know quite how bad they were! One of the calipers had a habbit of sticking and causing a lot of burning rear pad actio when on a hoon! I knew the pads were shot but the disk was in rings!!! Never seen one so bad. Worse still, last time i used the car was on Goodwood race circuit when i didnt think the brakes were 'quite as they should be'..
anyhow, all in a seasons wedging i guess!
thanks in advance guys
One side of the car is dismantled and one side worth of the calipers, disk and pads are removed. Good!
Next, where can i get pads, disks and calipers from?? Ive been looking at getting Black Diamond disks and pads which i think i have managed to trace to a a Jaguar Soverign 4.2 (1983-1994) Does this sound right? Tehe pads match their online shape thingy bobby so i guess so.
Has anyone got any ideas for calipers? Know anyone who does refubs to try and keep the every rising cost down?!
Quite frightening really.
...i knew that they needed replaceing but didnt know quite how bad they were! One of the calipers had a habbit of sticking and causing a lot of burning rear pad actio when on a hoon! I knew the pads were shot but the disk was in rings!!! Never seen one so bad. Worse still, last time i used the car was on Goodwood race circuit when i didnt think the brakes were 'quite as they should be'.. anyhow, all in a seasons wedging i guess!
thanks in advance guys
Matt, I used Classic Brakes based in Chelford near Knutsford for the refurb of my front Princess calipers. Mike used them and wrote an article on the wedge Pages under maintenance. I couldn't buy the 4 pistons seals etc etc to do the refurb for the price he charged to do the whole job, and on the rear calipers I would get the whole lot done including the handbrake arms as the self adjuster in there will probably be siezed. Well worth a call. (www.classicbrakes.co.uk telephone: 01625 860910).
The disks and calipers are standard XJ6 circa 80-83. I used Mintex 1144 pads all round, no complaints other than they do seem to squeel a bit. Cheers Steve
The disks and calipers are standard XJ6 circa 80-83. I used Mintex 1144 pads all round, no complaints other than they do seem to squeel a bit. Cheers Steve
matt-man said:
Right then...
One side of the car is dismantled and one side worth of the calipers, disk and pads are removed. Good!
Next, where can i get pads, disks and calipers from?? Ive been looking at getting Black Diamond disks and pads which i think i have managed to trace to a a Jaguar Soverign 4.2 (1983-1994) Does this sound right? Tehe pads match their online shape thingy bobby so i guess so.
Has anyone got any ideas for calipers? Know anyone who does refubs to try and keep the every rising cost down?!
Quite frightening really....i knew that they needed replaceing but didnt know quite how bad they were! One of the calipers had a habbit of sticking and causing a lot of burning rear pad actio when on a hoon! I knew the pads were shot but the disk was in rings!!! Never seen one so bad. Worse still, last time i used the car was on Goodwood race circuit when i didnt think the brakes were 'quite as they should be'..
anyhow, all in a seasons wedging i guess!
thanks in advance guys
One side of the car is dismantled and one side worth of the calipers, disk and pads are removed. Good!
Next, where can i get pads, disks and calipers from?? Ive been looking at getting Black Diamond disks and pads which i think i have managed to trace to a a Jaguar Soverign 4.2 (1983-1994) Does this sound right? Tehe pads match their online shape thingy bobby so i guess so.
Has anyone got any ideas for calipers? Know anyone who does refubs to try and keep the every rising cost down?!
Quite frightening really.
...i knew that they needed replaceing but didnt know quite how bad they were! One of the calipers had a habbit of sticking and causing a lot of burning rear pad actio when on a hoon! I knew the pads were shot but the disk was in rings!!! Never seen one so bad. Worse still, last time i used the car was on Goodwood race circuit when i didnt think the brakes were 'quite as they should be'.. anyhow, all in a seasons wedging i guess!
thanks in advance guys
Brakes are XJS / XJ6 from the 70'-80's, not sure of the exact models though, or whether there are differences. I got a pair of recon. calipers from my local (Kent) motor factor a couple of years back - they may have even listed them as a TVR fitment? Got new discs there as well - calipers were £65 each, discs £48 pair, both plus vat to give you an idea of cost. Could also try here:
www.ward-engineering.co.uk/calipers.htm
Pads I would recommend Ferodo DS2000 FCP815. The rear pads get pretty hot, especially on trackdays. These Ferodo's are fast road / trackday type. Worth also replacing the handbrake pads, as they seem to crumble with age / heat.
7.
I've used these people lots in the past and have always been impressed. May be worth a look to compare prices etc.
www.jagspares.co.uk/Manners/company.asp
Dan.
www.jagspares.co.uk/Manners/company.asp
Dan.
digga951 said:
I've used these people lots in the past and have always been impressed. May be worth a look to compare prices etc.
www.jagspares.co.uk/Manners/company.asp
Dan.
www.jagspares.co.uk/Manners/company.asp
Dan.
Bought a set of pistons and seals from above last year, under £70 all in iirc. Know what you are after when you mention wedge brakes, recommended.
P.S you only need one seal kit to do both calipers.
Well ive bought a full set of bits which should be on the way to me! My dad ordered them for me as i was at work all day but apparently they were £120 for a pair of fully recon calipers, £60 for a pair of disks and about £30 for the pads...job done!!looking forward to lovely new brakes!
number 7 said:
matt-man said:
Right then...
One side of the car is dismantled and one side worth of the calipers, disk and pads are removed. Good!
Next, where can i get pads, disks and calipers from?? Ive been looking at getting Black Diamond disks and pads which i think i have managed to trace to a a Jaguar Soverign 4.2 (1983-1994) Does this sound right? Tehe pads match their online shape thingy bobby so i guess so.
Has anyone got any ideas for calipers? Know anyone who does refubs to try and keep the every rising cost down?!
Quite frightening really....i knew that they needed replaceing but didnt know quite how bad they were! One of the calipers had a habbit of sticking and causing a lot of burning rear pad actio when on a hoon! I knew the pads were shot but the disk was in rings!!! Never seen one so bad. Worse still, last time i used the car was on Goodwood race circuit when i didnt think the brakes were 'quite as they should be'..
anyhow, all in a seasons wedging i guess!
thanks in advance guys
One side of the car is dismantled and one side worth of the calipers, disk and pads are removed. Good!
Next, where can i get pads, disks and calipers from?? Ive been looking at getting Black Diamond disks and pads which i think i have managed to trace to a a Jaguar Soverign 4.2 (1983-1994) Does this sound right? Tehe pads match their online shape thingy bobby so i guess so.
Has anyone got any ideas for calipers? Know anyone who does refubs to try and keep the every rising cost down?!
Quite frightening really.
...i knew that they needed replaceing but didnt know quite how bad they were! One of the calipers had a habbit of sticking and causing a lot of burning rear pad actio when on a hoon! I knew the pads were shot but the disk was in rings!!! Never seen one so bad. Worse still, last time i used the car was on Goodwood race circuit when i didnt think the brakes were 'quite as they should be'.. anyhow, all in a seasons wedging i guess!
thanks in advance guys
Brakes are XJS / XJ6 from the 70'-80's, not sure of the exact models though, or whether there are differences. I got a pair of recon. calipers from my local (Kent) motor factor a couple of years back - they may have even listed them as a TVR fitment? Got new discs there as well - calipers were £65 each, discs £48 pair, both plus vat to give you an idea of cost. Could also try here:
www.ward-engineering.co.uk/calipers.htm
Pads I would recommend Ferodo DS2000 FCP815. The rear pads get pretty hot, especially on trackdays. These Ferodo's are fast road / trackday type. Worth also replacing the handbrake pads, as they seem to crumble with age / heat.
7.
Well Guys, got the parts today and they were cheaper than i thought! Got them from ward Engineering as suggested above (merci) and paid £55 each for the calipers, £15 each for the disks and £12 for the pair of pads! INCLUDING VAT and next day delivery making the total £152 once i send my originals back for the exhange!!
TOP BOMBING!!!!!!!
Matt, when you put the car back together, make sure you dont overadjust the handbrake cable. I made this mistake on mine. I basically did it to make sure the handbrake would get thru the MoT. It did, but the handbrake pads bound so badly for the next 100 miles that the discs have warped, turned blue where the pads dont rub and glazed the rear footbrake pads. Its a long job to do rear brakes (as youre finding out), and you really dont wanna have to do it again cos you fecked ths discs bedding them in!
I was that man, and now when the brakes get warm, I get an eee-eee-eee-eee-eee-eee noise. It totally destroys the pulling-up-at-the-Shell-garage-for-some-Vpower pose-ability!
Ed.
I was that man, and now when the brakes get warm, I get an eee-eee-eee-eee-eee-eee noise. It totally destroys the pulling-up-at-the-Shell-garage-for-some-Vpower pose-ability!
Ed.
Supplemental:
The way to go is to make sure the auto-adjusters in the handbrake levers on the calipers are working. Adjust the cable up so that it is just ever so slightly slack with the lever down and then adjust the screws on the calipers so that the handbrake is utter poo, but just about grips when the lever is pointing out the roof.
Then operate the handbrake up and down until you feel like you've spent 3 weeks at a peep-show in seediest Soho.
You should notice the handbrake starting to tighten as the auto adjusters take up the slack. Also, make sure you put new splitpins in through the adjuster screw heads (there are little holes for them in the handbrake caliper "ears" ). This will stop them backing off over time.
HTH.
Ed.
P.S. Those calipers are fun to remove arent they!!
The way to go is to make sure the auto-adjusters in the handbrake levers on the calipers are working. Adjust the cable up so that it is just ever so slightly slack with the lever down and then adjust the screws on the calipers so that the handbrake is utter poo, but just about grips when the lever is pointing out the roof.
Then operate the handbrake up and down until you feel like you've spent 3 weeks at a peep-show in seediest Soho.
You should notice the handbrake starting to tighten as the auto adjusters take up the slack. Also, make sure you put new splitpins in through the adjuster screw heads (there are little holes for them in the handbrake caliper "ears" ). This will stop them backing off over time.
HTH.
Ed.
P.S. Those calipers are fun to remove arent they!!
Edited by ed_crouch on Wednesday 10th January 21:31
Thanks for the heads up there ed-much appreciated! I defnatly dont want to do this job again!
Im lucky cos ive got my Dad giving me a hand so when we are doing a long job like this, we kind of take it in turns and keep morale up! Beer usually helps here...!
The handbrake has always been a little poo, but holds the car when right up! Guess ill check the adjusters and get busy!! lol
I had such a problem getting a spanner in, dad 'modified' one of his by cutting it in half to get it in the gap!!
Im only one side down, and in the process of rebuilding now...need my new exhaust so i can put it back on and do the other side!
Insurance starts in Feb but something tells me i wont be on the road that fast!
Looking forward to crisp spring though....
Im lucky cos ive got my Dad giving me a hand so when we are doing a long job like this, we kind of take it in turns and keep morale up! Beer usually helps here...!
The handbrake has always been a little poo, but holds the car when right up! Guess ill check the adjusters and get busy!! lol
I had such a problem getting a spanner in, dad 'modified' one of his by cutting it in half to get it in the gap!!
Im only one side down, and in the process of rebuilding now...need my new exhaust so i can put it back on and do the other side!
Insurance starts in Feb but something tells me i wont be on the road that fast!
Looking forward to crisp spring though....
Its always difficult the first time you tackle it.
More advice: IMHO, copper grease is definitely your friend! Put a small amount on the bolt threads before you do them up, and they wont seize again.
Some people may tell you that it will cause the bolts to come undone, but, again, IMHO, that is not true. The coefficient of friction between threaded devices does not affect their tendency to shake loose: the helix angle does. Copper grease does not affect the helix angle!
Next time you come to work on the car ,the copper grease will have prevented the threads from siezing, and there'll be much less swearing and rounded nuts and bolts.
So, you gonna do the UJs whilst youve got the driveshafts off too?!?
If you are, if they have a cap diameter of 30.6 mm, and a reach of 106mm (IIRC), then they are Hardy Spicer HS179 joints, and are about 65 quid for all 4. These are the heavy duty ones with the grease nipple on.
Blimmin, blimmin, blimmin hard work to remove the old ones, but if they're badly worn, you'l fail your next MoT on this cos the tester will be able to grab the wheel at 12 oclock and 6 oclock and wobble it.
Gis a shout if you want help. Not saying im the expert, but ive done it recently.
Ed.
More advice: IMHO, copper grease is definitely your friend! Put a small amount on the bolt threads before you do them up, and they wont seize again.
Some people may tell you that it will cause the bolts to come undone, but, again, IMHO, that is not true. The coefficient of friction between threaded devices does not affect their tendency to shake loose: the helix angle does. Copper grease does not affect the helix angle!
Next time you come to work on the car ,the copper grease will have prevented the threads from siezing, and there'll be much less swearing and rounded nuts and bolts.
So, you gonna do the UJs whilst youve got the driveshafts off too?!?
If you are, if they have a cap diameter of 30.6 mm, and a reach of 106mm (IIRC), then they are Hardy Spicer HS179 joints, and are about 65 quid for all 4. These are the heavy duty ones with the grease nipple on.
Blimmin, blimmin, blimmin hard work to remove the old ones, but if they're badly worn, you'l fail your next MoT on this cos the tester will be able to grab the wheel at 12 oclock and 6 oclock and wobble it.
Gis a shout if you want help. Not saying im the expert, but ive done it recently.
Ed.
Sadly, for the higher powered wedges (maybe for all wedges actually), the driveshafts arent Jag ones. They are based on the Jag ones, but have much beefier torque tubes welded into them by TVR, so theyre significantly larger diameter.
I guess a specialist propshaft manufacturer may be able to make them. But at a price!!!!
Its a much better idea to fit HS179 UJs, and keep them greased, and preplace as soon as they start knocking: your MoT tester will be MORE THAN HAPPY TO ADVISE the moment they start clonking.
I guess a specialist propshaft manufacturer may be able to make them. But at a price!!!!
Its a much better idea to fit HS179 UJs, and keep them greased, and preplace as soon as they start knocking: your MoT tester will be MORE THAN HAPPY TO ADVISE the moment they start clonking.
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff