Anybody know what these are?
Discussion
Later Cerbs will take the Tuscan Rears, Most 4.5s but not sure what year they fit from. But even the earlier ones will take Tusc Rears with a little bit of fettling, I think you need to trim the end of the half shafts to get the centres on and sometimes rework the inner rear arch in the boot area (dependant upon the dampers you have fitted and the setting) But all fronts need a steering stop fitted. None of it is too difficult.
mxi933 said:
no good for the Cerb then 
Have rears on the back of mine too. But fully laden for Le Mans I got 1000 yards before having to turn back and jettison gear back into the house. Tyres rubbed a lot when I hit wallows in the road, not so much bumps.
That said, normal driving I haven't changed them to date, but they do catch every now and then. However, I think the springs need replacing, which won't be helping....
Quite a few people seem to have rears on Cerberas with different experiences...
Rears on mine and yes they do rub but not that much that I will be changing them. To be honest I rather like them and as long as you dont hit a compression to hard your fine. Put the kids in the back (10/12) plus a full tank of fuel and there still fine, I just drive slower on bumpy roads.
To those people with the wider wheels aon the back... 2 questions:
1. Is there any space between the wheel and the inside of the wheelarch?
2. How much distance is ther between the inner face of the wheel hub to the outer face of the wheelnut hole?
My thoughts run along the line that if the wheels are rubbing on the wheelarch outer, then why not get someone to machine off a few mm from the hub face to move the whole wheel in a tad? Of course you can only do this if you have space between the wheel and the inner wheelarch, and if there's enough metal in the hub to machine some off without compromising strength.
On that last note, perhaps you can compare the front wheel nut hole depth on the rears with the fronts.
1. Is there any space between the wheel and the inside of the wheelarch?
2. How much distance is ther between the inner face of the wheel hub to the outer face of the wheelnut hole?
My thoughts run along the line that if the wheels are rubbing on the wheelarch outer, then why not get someone to machine off a few mm from the hub face to move the whole wheel in a tad? Of course you can only do this if you have space between the wheel and the inner wheelarch, and if there's enough metal in the hub to machine some off without compromising strength.
On that last note, perhaps you can compare the front wheel nut hole depth on the rears with the fronts.
richb said:
mars said:
why not get someone to machine off a few mm from the hub face to move the whole wheel in a tad?
Better and easier to get a few mm. machined off the inner face of the wheel. R...c3ber said:
Question 1: No thats why they rub, lol.
Ah, I had thought they rubbed on the outer part of the wheelarch. My mistake.mars said:
c3ber said:
Question 1: No thats why they rub, lol.
Ah, I had thought they rubbed on the outer part of the wheelarch. My mistake.No I think you were right in the first place. The rear wheels will sit further out towards the edges of the car so it is the outer or bodywork part they will rub on surely? Machining the mounting face of the wheel is indeed an alternative to sourcing 4 fronts, I believe from having a look at it that there is enough metal to do this - in fact I am fairly sure the wheels are all the same to start with and then the relevant offsets are just dictated by how much is machined anyway at the time of production. The fronts with the different offset sit further in hence there must be ample room on the inside edge so can't see a problem there (assuming you don't go further than the 42mm offset that the fronts use, and why would you).
big_treacle said:
Andy at APM noticed mine & I'm pretty sure he said something about shortening driveshafts to make them fit is the way to go. I think.
Unless he's trying to generate a bit of extra income I really can't see how disassembling and removing the drive shafts, setting them up on a large machine and machining off 5mm or whatever compares to mounting the rim in a lathe and taking off the same amount? I did this to one of my rims at a specialist in Hamel Hempstead because I thought the rim was running out of true. He skimmed off the absolute minimum of material off the back face of the wheel and re-fitted the tyre. Took about 20 mins and I gave him a £10'ner. Surely you'd be looking at a £100+ labour bill the other route? 
touching cloth said:
mars said:
c3ber said:
Question 1: No thats why they rub, lol.
Ah, I had thought they rubbed on the outer part of the wheelarch. My mistake.No I think you were right in the first place. The rear wheels will sit further out towards the edges of the car so it is the outer or bodywork part they will rub on surely? Machining the mounting face of the wheel is indeed an alternative to sourcing 4 fronts, I believe from having a look at it that there is enough metal to do this - in fact I am fairly sure the wheels are all the same to start with and then the relevant offsets are just dictated by how much is machined anyway at the time of production. The fronts with the different offset sit further in hence there must be ample room on the inside edge so can't see a problem there (assuming you don't go further than the 42mm offset that the fronts use, and why would you).
In which case I have misunderstood something else... I thought the rears were actually wider than the fronts. If they're all the same width and there is indeed enough metal to remove for the purposes of resetting offset, then this ought to be a very cheap way of achieving the objective.
Would be nice to have a 2nd set available... [goes away to look at ebay]
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