First daft question
First daft question
Author
Discussion

deadscoob

Original Poster:

2,265 posts

289 months

Monday 8th January 2007
quotequote all
Had the kit deivered saturday, starting to think about doing the panelling.

Build manual says 3.3mm drill bit, all I can find are 3.5. I know it's only .2 of a difference, but does it matter?

This'll be the first in a long string of dumb questions I think

cupra

31 posts

247 months

Monday 8th January 2007
quotequote all
I asked myself the same question when the kit arrived. Its because the rivets are in inch measurements. I had to see 3 stores before I found the 3.3 mm's. A 0.1 mm gap each side of the rivet will most likely over time give some slip in the panels, which is not good as they are also a part of the chassis strength. Make sure you buy enough drills, some of the places you will be drilling on the chassis, will take all your balancing skills. I think I broke 10 drills before I was finished..........

Graham-P

1,548 posts

275 months

Monday 8th January 2007
quotequote all
What ever you do pay the extra and get some good quality bits. I went for the jobber bits from screwfix whilst they were cheap (50 for a few quid) it was false economy, after a few holes were either blunt or snapped sometimes with a resulting scratch mad
Good Luck, this is the daunting bit, after the panelling you will be sick of the sight of rivets....I know I was!!!!
Oh also make yourself up a rivet spacing template, (as per Stigs website)
Graham


Edited by Graham-P on Monday 8th January 13:10

pb3

1,064 posts

275 months

Monday 8th January 2007
quotequote all
Best get the right size. I got boxes of ten (twice in total) from proper shops that can do just about everything. A place called Cromwells in Peterborough and Scotties in Huntingdon, but to name two do them, they are not expenive.

andygtt

8,345 posts

293 months

Monday 8th January 2007
quotequote all
I used high quality drill bits and only went through about 3 or 4 so I'd recomend getting good ones, its also much safer as low quality ones tend to break.

Don't use 3.5mm ones I'd say 3.3mm max, I used 3.2mm which is what the rivits are.

deadscoob

Original Poster:

2,265 posts

289 months

Monday 8th January 2007
quotequote all
Cheers,

Will avoid Screwfix then

steve_d

13,802 posts

287 months

Monday 8th January 2007
quotequote all
I also used 3.2. Get good ones. Cromwells are UK wide but any engineering supplies place will stock them.
If you don't have one get an air riveter. The Screwfix one will do fine as it is the same model you will find elsewhere at twice the price.

Steve

tblackey

88 posts

255 months

Monday 8th January 2007
quotequote all
This is sad, funny and maddening all at the same time. We have 1/8" drill bits around here everywhere, but want something in metric, look out. You would think you were from Mars.

Pilot Pete

670 posts

247 months

Monday 8th January 2007
quotequote all
I think the amount of rivets the factory say you should use is a bit of a over kill.
The carbon panels in my other car were just held on with 221 sikaflex and few rivets, (and loads of quick clamps as it dried)
More holes more rivets more weight.
More holes weaker chassis
More chances of rust

My 5p worth

Having said that I did chicken out and do my chassis per the factory ha ha

v8owner

602 posts

264 months

Monday 8th January 2007
quotequote all
steve_d said:
I also used 3.2. Get good ones.
Steve


ditto.. just from a local good tool shop, im still on the first one and have drilled ali and tube for first three panels...

tbh its the measuring that bores me more than the drilling!

deadscoob

Original Poster:

2,265 posts

289 months

Monday 8th January 2007
quotequote all
Yeah - if I said I was looking forward to it, I'd be lying.

andygtt

8,345 posts

293 months

Monday 8th January 2007
quotequote all
I think there is a lot of merit from doing the number of rivits that the factory recomend, weight gain would be a few grams so definatelly not worth deviating from whats recomended.

GTWayne

4,595 posts

246 months

Monday 8th January 2007
quotequote all
I was lucky enough to find an ever so helpful funny shaped fella to fix all of my rivets for me and I must say, I did not find this a taxing part of the build in any way, shape or form.hehe

Edited to say: I have been wracking my brains trying to find something useful to say but not actually having built my car I don't really have much hands on experience but one thing that I was advised to do when I was originally going to build the car myself is get an air rivet gun, makes life a lot easier apparently.


Edited by GTWayne on Monday 8th January 17:08

crazy of cookham

740 posts

284 months

Monday 8th January 2007
quotequote all
Just a few tips. Get a right angled drill, a must and also check you can get the drill into corners before marking-out and drilling panels, or you will find you have holes where it is impossible to drill chassis. Do not pre-drill top of front bulk-head panel as this can only be done after body fit.
Best tip use Stigs website.

deadscoob

Original Poster:

2,265 posts

289 months

Monday 8th January 2007
quotequote all
Thanks - have been reading that site, so if I cock it up, I have someone else to blame

GTrone

216 posts

246 months

Monday 8th January 2007
quotequote all
GTWayne said:
....get an air rivet gun, makes life a lot easier apparently.


..probably a good idea, though using a hand riveter certainly builds up those firm handshake muscles! Lazy-tong riveters are another alternative.

I used 3.5mm bits - all seemed good though I had problems with rivets on the parts that are bent over the chassis rails as the rivets didn't seem tight enough as couple came slightly loose with the hammering.

Get a step drill too!

Liam

bluesatin

3,115 posts

301 months

Monday 8th January 2007
quotequote all
Use 3.2mm and as many as the factory say. The panels stregthen the chassis while sikaflex does what it says- flex!

davefiddes

846 posts

289 months

Monday 8th January 2007
quotequote all
I just bought a couple of packets of 1/8" middle of the road jobber drills from RS. Worked out very well with few breakages and the were the correct size for the 1/8" rivets (it may be they supply 3.3mm rivets now - they are different and it does matter). The only times I've managed to break a drill I've inadvertantly managed to get a bending load on it. The stress reversals on it cause it to fatigue in a few minutes of use. If you use the right feed (push) and speed the drill will last 10 times longer...unfortunately only experience will tell you what this is.

Whilst I'm on the subject: High Speed Steel/Cobalt drills (e.g. RS 365-1263) are pure magic when it comes to going through case hardened steel such as found in socket head bolts or stainless.

shithotfast

1,134 posts

297 months

Tuesday 9th January 2007
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Worth saying that I found when starting out on the build, you will need quite a few specific bits, eg additional ss bolts etc, drill bits, etc, worst thing was going to places like halfords and having everyone look at you blankly! I found you need to find a GOOD local shop that is a REAL tool shop and somewhere where you can get the real bits and pieces...... otherwise its frustration time.! When I started PISTONHEADS didnt exist so it was 3 calls a day to the factory for advice.

you youngsters dont know how easy it is now! (moan moan old man rants etc)

stig

11,823 posts

313 months

Tuesday 9th January 2007
quotequote all
deadscoob said:
Thanks - have been reading that site, so if I cock it up, I have someone else to blame


Happy to help, errr... I think