Jump starting from flat battery - any advice?
Discussion
Well it had to happen! Four weeks without use and the battery's flat. No surprises and all my fault. As the 95 Chim lives in no-power lock up half a mile away, I'm thinking about jump starting from the family Volvo XC70. I know the battery's a bugger to access (particularly after reading this month's Sprint) but I have been "down there" once before.
Are there any pitfalls? I dont want to fry the ECU or alarm system, for instance.
Are there any pitfalls? I dont want to fry the ECU or alarm system, for instance.
should be standard tho !! 
Not standard, Leven accessory, or search for Anderson plugs and make your own (though Levens mounting system is worth having).
Good opportunity to post my usual warning here; these Anderson plugs are made of plastic that does degrade over time with heat, something there is a lot of in the TVR engine bay. I just replaced the Anderson plug on mine, as the body had gone brittle and crumbled away, allowing the earth lead literally to drop out of the bottom. Had this been the live lead, bearing in mind it is direct to the starter motor and then to the battery on most cars, I dread to think what the outcome could have been. I have fitted a new body (a half plug) and also fitted a silicone boot and cover from Demon Tweeks to try to limit future heat damage, but it is something I will check in future. As a precaution I have also cable tied the leads copiously in best TVR tradition!
Good opportunity to post my usual warning here; these Anderson plugs are made of plastic that does degrade over time with heat, something there is a lot of in the TVR engine bay. I just replaced the Anderson plug on mine, as the body had gone brittle and crumbled away, allowing the earth lead literally to drop out of the bottom. Had this been the live lead, bearing in mind it is direct to the starter motor and then to the battery on most cars, I dread to think what the outcome could have been. I have fitted a new body (a half plug) and also fitted a silicone boot and cover from Demon Tweeks to try to limit future heat damage, but it is something I will check in future. As a precaution I have also cable tied the leads copiously in best TVR tradition!
Jump leads are not that hard to get on , just involves the chim passenger footwell headstand manoeuver.
Heres the best way:
1. Connect jump leads with other cars engine running, leave leads on for a few mins to get some charge into the dead battery (usually 2 mins is plenty)
2. Start the chim with the jump leads still connected.
3. You will now find the alarm is probably having a hissy fit or the doors wont lock or some such. Ignore this and leave the engine running for 5 minutes (I found 5 mins more than enough when i have killed the battery before now)
4. Now to reset the alarm, immobiliser etc. Turn engine off. Disconnect neutral wire from car battery for 5 secs. Reconnect and immediately press door lock blipper. Doors should lock, alarm and Immobiliser will reset and you are done.
5. Take it for at least an hours drive, giving lots of beans and repeatedly apologising to your car for not taking her out every week.
Heres the best way:
1. Connect jump leads with other cars engine running, leave leads on for a few mins to get some charge into the dead battery (usually 2 mins is plenty)
2. Start the chim with the jump leads still connected.
3. You will now find the alarm is probably having a hissy fit or the doors wont lock or some such. Ignore this and leave the engine running for 5 minutes (I found 5 mins more than enough when i have killed the battery before now)
4. Now to reset the alarm, immobiliser etc. Turn engine off. Disconnect neutral wire from car battery for 5 secs. Reconnect and immediately press door lock blipper. Doors should lock, alarm and Immobiliser will reset and you are done.
5. Take it for at least an hours drive, giving lots of beans and repeatedly apologising to your car for not taking her out every week.
victormeldrew said:
Not standard, Leven accessory, or search for Anderson plugs and make your own (though Levens mounting system is worth having).
Good opportunity to post my usual warning here; these Anderson plugs are made of plastic that does degrade over time with heat, something there is a lot of in the TVR engine bay. I just replaced the Anderson plug on mine, as the body had gone brittle and crumbled away, allowing the earth lead literally to drop out of the bottom. Had this been the live lead, bearing in mind it is direct to the starter motor and then to the battery on most cars, I dread to think what the outcome could have been. I have fitted a new body (a half plug) and also fitted a silicone boot and cover from Demon Tweeks to try to limit future heat damage, but it is something I will check in future. As a precaution I have also cable tied the leads copiously in best TVR tradition!
Good opportunity to post my usual warning here; these Anderson plugs are made of plastic that does degrade over time with heat, something there is a lot of in the TVR engine bay. I just replaced the Anderson plug on mine, as the body had gone brittle and crumbled away, allowing the earth lead literally to drop out of the bottom. Had this been the live lead, bearing in mind it is direct to the starter motor and then to the battery on most cars, I dread to think what the outcome could have been. I have fitted a new body (a half plug) and also fitted a silicone boot and cover from Demon Tweeks to try to limit future heat damage, but it is something I will check in future. As a precaution I have also cable tied the leads copiously in best TVR tradition!
Hmm..I am going to have the battery shifted to the boot in the near future, I think I will have an anderson plug stuck in its place in the footwell rather than under the bonnet.
bigdods said:
Jump leads are not that hard to get on , just involves the chim passenger footwell headstand manoeuver.
Heres the best way:
1. Connect jump leads with other cars engine running, leave leads on for a few mins to get some charge into the dead battery (usually 2 mins is plenty)
2. Start the chim with the jump leads still connected.
3. You will now find the alarm is probably having a hissy fit or the doors wont lock or some such. Ignore this and leave the engine running for 5 minutes (I found 5 mins more than enough when i have killed the battery before now)
4. Now to reset the alarm, immobiliser etc. Turn engine off. Disconnect neutral wire from car battery for 5 secs. Reconnect and immediately press door lock blipper. Doors should lock, alarm and Immobiliser will reset and you are done.
5. Take it for at least an hours drive, giving lots of beans and repeatedly apologising to your car for not taking her out every week.
Heres the best way:
1. Connect jump leads with other cars engine running, leave leads on for a few mins to get some charge into the dead battery (usually 2 mins is plenty)
2. Start the chim with the jump leads still connected.
3. You will now find the alarm is probably having a hissy fit or the doors wont lock or some such. Ignore this and leave the engine running for 5 minutes (I found 5 mins more than enough when i have killed the battery before now)
4. Now to reset the alarm, immobiliser etc. Turn engine off. Disconnect neutral wire from car battery for 5 secs. Reconnect and immediately press door lock blipper. Doors should lock, alarm and Immobiliser will reset and you are done.
5. Take it for at least an hours drive, giving lots of beans and repeatedly apologising to your car for not taking her out every week.
Great advice. Point 5. obviously the important one. Many thanks
it may be easier to buy a charge and start unit that plugs into the cigarette lighter
socket on both cars, see link below
www.a1gifts.co.uk/fulldetailsnew.asp?productid=1998&source=webgains&siteid=1730
the cigarette socket is live all the time on my 96 model.
Phil
socket on both cars, see link below
www.a1gifts.co.uk/fulldetailsnew.asp?productid=1998&source=webgains&siteid=1730
the cigarette socket is live all the time on my 96 model.
Phil
prtvr said:
it may be easier to buy a charge and start unit that plugs into the cigarette lighter
socket on both cars, see link below
www.a1gifts.co.uk/fulldetailsnew.asp?productid=1998&source=webgains&siteid=1730
the cigarette socket is live all the time on my 96 model.
Phil
socket on both cars, see link below
www.a1gifts.co.uk/fulldetailsnew.asp?productid=1998&source=webgains&siteid=1730
the cigarette socket is live all the time on my 96 model.
Phil
Ohh dont do that with a flat battery - there was a thread recently. Its ok if your battery is only just short of starting the car but if its flat it will take forever to charge it and could cause a fire or at least a blown fuse. Wiring for a ciggy lighter only takes a few amps (its pretty thin stuff). Its not that hard to get the proper leads on the batter and a heck of a lot safer !. Make sure you buy decent high rater booster cables not the flimsy halfords ones which will melt....
bigdods said:
prtvr said:
it may be easier to buy a charge and start unit that plugs into the cigarette lighter
socket on both cars, see link below
www.a1gifts.co.uk/fulldetailsnew.asp?productid=1998&source=webgains&siteid=1730
the cigarette socket is live all the time on my 96 model.
Phil
socket on both cars, see link below
www.a1gifts.co.uk/fulldetailsnew.asp?productid=1998&source=webgains&siteid=1730
the cigarette socket is live all the time on my 96 model.
Phil
Ohh dont do that with a flat battery - there was a thread recently. Its ok if your battery is only just short of starting the car but if its flat it will take forever to charge it and could cause a fire or at least a blown fuse. Wiring for a ciggy lighter only takes a few amps (its pretty thin stuff). Its not that hard to get the proper leads on the batter and a heck of a lot safer !. Make sure you buy decent high rater booster cables not the flimsy halfords ones which will melt....
interesting... I have used one of them for about two years and never had a problem, agreed it takes awhile to charge
as the current is limited by a control circuit in the unit, but that may be a better way to charge a flat battery
rather than a massive jolt, as for the cable that runs to the ciggy socket if you look on the picture the cable on the unit is very thin and most ciggy socket cable is bigger, as for catching fire have you a link to this ? the unit I have has a fuse built into it so if anything goes wrong it blows to prevent this type of thing happening. maybe the socket was wired reverse this might cause a fire. the same can happen if the crocodile clip comes of on the jump lead (easy to do when its not easy to get at the battery ) It may not be an ideal solution but sometimes it may be an easier way to go.
I have used it on totally flat battery's both the tvr and a Honda civic with no problem
victormeldrew said:
Not standard, Leven accessory, or search for Anderson plugs and make your own (though Levens mounting system is worth having).
Good opportunity to post my usual warning here; these Anderson plugs are made of plastic that does degrade over time with heat, something there is a lot of in the TVR engine bay. I just replaced the Anderson plug on mine, as the body had gone brittle and crumbled away, allowing the earth lead literally to drop out of the bottom. Had this been the live lead, bearing in mind it is direct to the starter motor and then to the battery on most cars, I dread to think what the outcome could have been. I have fitted a new body (a half plug) and also fitted a silicone boot and cover from Demon Tweeks to try to limit future heat damage, but it is something I will check in future. As a precaution I have also cable tied the leads copiously in best TVR tradition!
Good opportunity to post my usual warning here; these Anderson plugs are made of plastic that does degrade over time with heat, something there is a lot of in the TVR engine bay. I just replaced the Anderson plug on mine, as the body had gone brittle and crumbled away, allowing the earth lead literally to drop out of the bottom. Had this been the live lead, bearing in mind it is direct to the starter motor and then to the battery on most cars, I dread to think what the outcome could have been. I have fitted a new body (a half plug) and also fitted a silicone boot and cover from Demon Tweeks to try to limit future heat damage, but it is something I will check in future. As a precaution I have also cable tied the leads copiously in best TVR tradition!
What was the Ampage rating of the plugs you used?
Did they look like this?
Whereabouts did you fix it?
Piccy?
That will do it, but it's not the one generally used: that's a 175A connector.
I've fitted my own kit, the plug is mounted out of the way of any heat, bolted to the panel under the bonnet in front of the radiator (near to the screen washer bottle top). That keeps it away from the weather, whether parked or driving. I also included the 'Optimate' battery charger connector. As mine's a later car without a grille the connection can be made without having to enter the car. Cables are routed along the main chassis rail, away from the offside manifold and suspension wishbone, back to the starter motor.
I've fitted my own kit, the plug is mounted out of the way of any heat, bolted to the panel under the bonnet in front of the radiator (near to the screen washer bottle top). That keeps it away from the weather, whether parked or driving. I also included the 'Optimate' battery charger connector. As mine's a later car without a grille the connection can be made without having to enter the car. Cables are routed along the main chassis rail, away from the offside manifold and suspension wishbone, back to the starter motor.
Jump started my battery from (completely) flat last week and the (cheapo admittedly) leads melted 
(due to huge charge being taken 'cos so flat?)
My auto electrician advised my Accumate/cigarette lighter method as preferable as will be less agressive although taking 24hrs+.
Obviously prevention better than cure
(due to huge charge being taken 'cos so flat?) My auto electrician advised my Accumate/cigarette lighter method as preferable as will be less agressive although taking 24hrs+.
Obviously prevention better than cure
sparkythecat said:
victormeldrew said:
Not standard, Leven accessory, or search for Anderson plugs and make your own (though Levens mounting system is worth having).
Good opportunity to post my usual warning here; these Anderson plugs are made of plastic that does degrade over time with heat, something there is a lot of in the TVR engine bay. I just replaced the Anderson plug on mine, as the body had gone brittle and crumbled away, allowing the earth lead literally to drop out of the bottom. Had this been the live lead, bearing in mind it is direct to the starter motor and then to the battery on most cars, I dread to think what the outcome could have been. I have fitted a new body (a half plug) and also fitted a silicone boot and cover from Demon Tweeks to try to limit future heat damage, but it is something I will check in future. As a precaution I have also cable tied the leads copiously in best TVR tradition!
Good opportunity to post my usual warning here; these Anderson plugs are made of plastic that does degrade over time with heat, something there is a lot of in the TVR engine bay. I just replaced the Anderson plug on mine, as the body had gone brittle and crumbled away, allowing the earth lead literally to drop out of the bottom. Had this been the live lead, bearing in mind it is direct to the starter motor and then to the battery on most cars, I dread to think what the outcome could have been. I have fitted a new body (a half plug) and also fitted a silicone boot and cover from Demon Tweeks to try to limit future heat damage, but it is something I will check in future. As a precaution I have also cable tied the leads copiously in best TVR tradition!
What was the Ampage rating of the plugs you used?
Did they look like this?
Whereabouts did you fix it?
Piccy?
Got mine from MT Motorsport, #12.75 plus VAT & delivery. It is the SB350 plg, 175A rated. I did mention I already had fitted a Leven kit years ago? It's mounted on the front chassis member as per Leven instructions. The replacement Andersen plug just bolted on in place of the crumbling original supplied by Leven.
Some pics here, sorry for quality I am crap with cameras and it's dark in the garage! You can just make out the boot covering the plug, the cap is pretty obvious. The manky black stuff is Waxoyl Underseal.
Edited by victormeldrew on Tuesday 9th January 13:58
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