Discussion
If you go to the search function on the top of page,
The type in MIL Light, tick Exact phrase, then under the search forum box highlight TVR (all) with All Dates highlighted in the bottom box you will find bundles of info for you to sort through. Or get the shpub Bible it's a must !!
The type in MIL Light, tick Exact phrase, then under the search forum box highlight TVR (all) with All Dates highlighted in the bottom box you will find bundles of info for you to sort through. Or get the shpub Bible it's a must !!
Do not pass Go. Do not collect £200. Go directly to Dealer.
MIL light usually means terminal ECU failure of some kind.
Resetting the ECU will wipe the ECU code so that when they look at it the chances are that the ECU will come up as normal and they/you will be none the wiser.
Just get it to hospital.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
>> Edited by shpub on Friday 4th April 11:03
MIL light usually means terminal ECU failure of some kind.
Resetting the ECU will wipe the ECU code so that when they look at it the chances are that the ECU will come up as normal and they/you will be none the wiser.
Just get it to hospital.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
>> Edited by shpub on Friday 4th April 11:03
shpub said: Do not pass Go. Do not collect £200. Go directly to Dealer.
MIL light usually means terminal ECU failure of some kind.
Resetting the ECU will wipe the ECU code so that when they look at it the chances are that the ECU will come up as normal and they/you will be none the wiser.
Just get it to hospital.
Steve
Completely concur with Steve on this one - this is exactly what happened to mine. Would turn over but wouldnt fire - MIL light on. What ever you do, dont keep turning the engine over - you will flood the cylinders with fuel (well I did) and this may leak into the oil - leading to an oil change too. Also you run the risk of putting rich fuel / air mixture through the exhaust and destroying the cats....
Take it straight to a dealer or specialist and get a new ECU - its not break the bank time, but be warned some of the investigation work is time consuming and can be costly. I ended up with a bill of £1,600 for the work - though the new ECU was around £500 from TVR. Do note that you can get ECU's recon'ed too - though it does need to be someone that knows the Rover engine management system.
Not too bad, but it does need to go to see someone.
Cheers,
Paul
I thought MIL was refering to the Injectors ?
When my injectors were on the fritz, the MIL light was playing in sequence...
Replaced the BOSCH relay in the foot well (was all green and furry!!) and it all went away... Cost, Few quid...
check them out..
iirc, on the Chim, the Fuel Pump and Injectors use same relay...
as a temp fix, you can use a headlight relay.. BUT. its PERM ON. so whilst it will work, it WILL flaten your battery if you leave it connected..
but fine for testing IMHO! I ran on one for a day.. no issue.
HTH
When my injectors were on the fritz, the MIL light was playing in sequence...
Replaced the BOSCH relay in the foot well (was all green and furry!!) and it all went away... Cost, Few quid...
check them out..
iirc, on the Chim, the Fuel Pump and Injectors use same relay...
as a temp fix, you can use a headlight relay.. BUT. its PERM ON. so whilst it will work, it WILL flaten your battery if you leave it connected..
but fine for testing IMHO! I ran on one for a day.. no issue.
HTH
JamieBeeston said: I thought MIL was refering to the Injectors ?
When my injectors were on the fritz, the MIL light was playing in sequence...
Replaced the BOSCH relay in the foot well (was all green and furry!!) and it all went away... Cost, Few quid...
check them out..
iirc, on the Chim, the Fuel Pump and Injectors use same relay...
as a temp fix, you can use a headlight relay.. BUT. its PERM ON. so whilst it will work, it WILL flaten your battery if you leave it connected..
but fine for testing IMHO! I ran on one for a day.. no issue.
HTH
I think I'm right in saying the injector drives are direct rather from the ECU than through a relay. Don't know how that MIL light is wired up but presumably it's driven by the ECU (same ECU on mine but no MIL light) so it could be indicating any fault in the fuel injection system.
FYI on mine the second output from the fuel pump relay drives the lambda sensor heaters - mine has run fine without this. A normal single pole changeover relay has exactly the wrong logic (powers the lambda sensors when the ignition is OFF) which is OK to drive on in emergency but will flatten the battery if left overnight. A single pole single position relay avoids this problem and is a better (and cheaper) bodge to get you home.
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