Help wont start
Discussion
Hi i could do with some advice - my car wont start it.
*It turns over but wont kick in
*I can hear fuel pump do its thing
*Once i realease the key a kind of error noise comes from the engine bay?
*Last time i used it it was fine but its been left in the garage about a week since
*its had new leads, plugs, shroads 2 months ago
*The alarms been working fine
*The batterys now getting low after numerous attempts to start
Any ideas
Cheers for help
*It turns over but wont kick in
*I can hear fuel pump do its thing
*Once i realease the key a kind of error noise comes from the engine bay?
*Last time i used it it was fine but its been left in the garage about a week since
*its had new leads, plugs, shroads 2 months ago
*The alarms been working fine
*The batterys now getting low after numerous attempts to start
Any ideas
Cheers for help
but not as loud....electrical error noise??? Assume from your comments that the engine is cranking over but not firing. Take the plugs out and see what state they're in. Wet means flooded or ignition fault. Dry means no fuel. If they're wet then you should replace them with brand new plugs gapped correctly. Also make sure you keep the battery charged up, it's *much* harder to start if the battery is running down.
GreenV8S said:
Assume from your comments that the engine is cranking over but not firing. Take the plugs out and see what state they're in. Wet means flooded or ignition fault. Dry means no fuel. If they're wet then you should replace them with brand new plugs gapped correctly. Also make sure you keep the battery charged up, it's *much* harder to start if the battery is running down.
Just fitted new battery, engine still not firing, removed a plug that had approx 10mm of wettness. Will the fuel evaporate? or as GreenV8s says i have to replace them? they as their less than 500 miles old.
Also its had new cap and rotor arm both looking spanking new.
Any Ideas please!!!!!
Im thinking its the coil are they standard land rover v8? or tvr only?
Edited by meatball on Sunday 14th January 16:29
meatball said:
Also its had new cap and rotor arm both looking spanking new.
Any Ideas please!!!!!
Cheers Ben
Any Ideas please!!!!!
Cheers Ben
If it has recently had a new cap fitted then first thing I would check is that the HT lead from the coil has been properly seated into the female connectors on both the coil and the cap. Is there a good spark at the plugs?
What happened in between it working, and not working? Was it running perfectly before the problem started? Any work done at around the same time? Did the problem happen abruptly (simply no sign of life one day) or did it happen progressively?
Do you know how to check for a spark and so on? If so, go through the ignition and make sure you have a good spark, then treat it as a flooded engine. If not, pay a local mechanic to come out and start you.
By the way, if the plugs came out wet then bin them. In theory you can dry them and burn them clean, in practice it's hit and miss and if you have a starting problem the last thing you want to do is introduce some dodgy spark plugs into the equation.
Do you know how to check for a spark and so on? If so, go through the ignition and make sure you have a good spark, then treat it as a flooded engine. If not, pay a local mechanic to come out and start you.
By the way, if the plugs came out wet then bin them. In theory you can dry them and burn them clean, in practice it's hit and miss and if you have a starting problem the last thing you want to do is introduce some dodgy spark plugs into the equation.
GreenV8S said:
What happened in between it working, and not working? Was it running perfectly before the problem started? Any work done at around the same time? Did the problem happen abruptly (simply no sign of life one day) or did it happen progressively?
Do you know how to check for a spark and so on? If so, go through the ignition and make sure you have a good spark, then treat it as a flooded engine. If not, pay a local mechanic to come out and start you.
By the way, if the plugs came out wet then bin them. In theory you can dry them and burn them clean, in practice it's hit and miss and if you have a starting problem the last thing you want to do is introduce some dodgy spark plugs into the equation.
Do you know how to check for a spark and so on? If so, go through the ignition and make sure you have a good spark, then treat it as a flooded engine. If not, pay a local mechanic to come out and start you.
By the way, if the plugs came out wet then bin them. In theory you can dry them and burn them clean, in practice it's hit and miss and if you have a starting problem the last thing you want to do is introduce some dodgy spark plugs into the equation.
It was running fine then as you said no sign of life? its had no work done? - i assume you mean pull a plug out and connect to the lead to test for a spark?
Cheers Ben
meatball said:
Also its had new cap and rotor arm both looking spanking new.
Any Ideas please!!!!!
I had a similar problem.
I thought i would do a bit of 'preventatitve maintenance' and thought i would change the dizzy cap and rotor arm as they looked a bit old.
One trip down halfords later and i bought the parts...fitted them and it was fine for about 5 miles...then it was misfiring to the point where i was struggling to keep the engine going.
Took the halfords parts off and replaced with the old Lucas prts and it ran like a dream...swapped them back and it ran like a dog...it still has the lucas parts in and 15k miles later it is still running fine.
If you have the old rotor arm and dizzy cap, put them back on and see what that does.
I could do with some more help!!!
ive Just had a mobile mechanic spend 3 hours trying to get my car going
since my last post ive Changed battery, new coil and new set of plugs
Ive got a strong blue/white spark from the plugs but a yellow weaker spark from the coil.
All the plugs are now wet again as it now flooded.
Whys it flooding so much? Ignition amp????
On turn over its sooooooooo nearly there
Cheers Ben
ive Just had a mobile mechanic spend 3 hours trying to get my car going
since my last post ive Changed battery, new coil and new set of plugs
Ive got a strong blue/white spark from the plugs but a yellow weaker spark from the coil.
All the plugs are now wet again as it now flooded.
Whys it flooding so much? Ignition amp????
On turn over its sooooooooo nearly there
Cheers Ben
meatball said:
I could do with some more help!!!
ive Just had a mobile mechanic spend 3 hours trying to get my car going
since my last post ive Changed battery, new coil and new set of plugs
Ive got a strong blue/white spark from the plugs but a yellow weaker spark from the coil.
All the plugs are now wet again as it now flooded.
Whys it flooding so much? Ignition amp????
On turn over its sooooooooo nearly there
Cheers Ben
ive Just had a mobile mechanic spend 3 hours trying to get my car going
since my last post ive Changed battery, new coil and new set of plugs
Ive got a strong blue/white spark from the plugs but a yellow weaker spark from the coil.
All the plugs are now wet again as it now flooded.
Whys it flooding so much? Ignition amp????
On turn over its sooooooooo nearly there
Cheers Ben
You mentioned a new coil - is it this one Land Rover PRC6574 (Bosch part # 0221 122 392-740) or the Lucas equivalent?
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