Discussion
Fuse box and relay board are notorious, like disconnecting at the back, oxidation, burned, etc.... And it is old by now as well. Would start there myself if I were to investigate.
Could as well be that in the mean time (since taking engine out and putting it back in) parts deteriorated, sensors not ok, etc.
Hope you get it sorted.
Rob
Could as well be that in the mean time (since taking engine out and putting it back in) parts deteriorated, sensors not ok, etc.
Hope you get it sorted.
Rob
Dead battery? Mine did the same thing once, even though I could have sworn the battery was ok. Just made a repeated tapping kind of noise from the starter. Quick test - put all the lights on, main beam, heater, fans, hazzards etc etc with the ignition on. A decent battery should be able to power them without too much problem, so if your volt meter reads a low figure it could be a charge problem, or even corroded battery terminals.
Try jump starting it or use some jump leads. Worth a try since its free!
Try jump starting it or use some jump leads. Worth a try since its free!
If your worried it's the immobiliser, knock it out of the equation by getting a six foot bit of cable with a spade connector on the end. Fasten the spade connector to the 12v supply on the starter motor (can be done by stuffing your arm between the exhaust manifold). Once connected flash the other end of the wire onto the positive terminal of the battery. By doing this, you are effectively bypassing both the ignition and immobiliser. If memory serves though, the ignition switch will need to be in the right position.
This route worked for me.
If the car starts, suspect something in the ignition/starter line.
If it doesn't check the following
starter motor - rocking the car in gear, can clear it or tap it with a heavy piece of bar (access again via exhaust manifold. Warning here - be careful to whack the steel body of motor and not the plastic end. Also check that all connections are tight both to the battery and the starter. The starter may have seized if it hasn't been used for a long time.
If the starter is sticky a brand new one can be had for £70 off Ebay. I bought one and was very happy with both the quality of the unit and it's performance.
Hope the beast roars back into life soon...
Richard
As per previous post, have the battery tested - most places do this for free.
This route worked for me.
If the car starts, suspect something in the ignition/starter line.
If it doesn't check the following
starter motor - rocking the car in gear, can clear it or tap it with a heavy piece of bar (access again via exhaust manifold. Warning here - be careful to whack the steel body of motor and not the plastic end. Also check that all connections are tight both to the battery and the starter. The starter may have seized if it hasn't been used for a long time.
If the starter is sticky a brand new one can be had for £70 off Ebay. I bought one and was very happy with both the quality of the unit and it's performance.
Hope the beast roars back into life soon...
Richard
As per previous post, have the battery tested - most places do this for free.
Another Tuppen'orth!
This happened to me back in the Autumn:
Got in the car, went to "awaken the lion", and all I got was click!
I tried all of the usual things, to no avail. Battery good, rocked it back and forth in gear, clouted the starter with a breaker bar through the exhaust manifold...
I gave up and took the tintop to work (it was a beautiful day, too...).
When I got back, my obsessive compulsive nature got the better me and I took the starter out to find out what was going on. I took the solenoid out to check it and...
A small piece of plastic had come adrift inside the solenoid, and was trapped down the side of the armature, physically preventing it contracting fully and engaging the starter contactors! Well, b*gger me sideways...
I DONT KNOW WHERE THE PIECE OF PLASTIC CAME FROM!! hmmmm. Soooo, any more of that rubbish from the starter, and its off to be rebuilt methinks.
Bizarre one, that.
Ed.
P.S. good news was that I was Wedging again within an hour, as if you take the O/S/F wheel off, its actually pretty easy to get the starter out, and defo no taking the manifold off!
This happened to me back in the Autumn:
Got in the car, went to "awaken the lion", and all I got was click!
I tried all of the usual things, to no avail. Battery good, rocked it back and forth in gear, clouted the starter with a breaker bar through the exhaust manifold...
I gave up and took the tintop to work (it was a beautiful day, too...).
When I got back, my obsessive compulsive nature got the better me and I took the starter out to find out what was going on. I took the solenoid out to check it and...
A small piece of plastic had come adrift inside the solenoid, and was trapped down the side of the armature, physically preventing it contracting fully and engaging the starter contactors! Well, b*gger me sideways...
I DONT KNOW WHERE THE PIECE OF PLASTIC CAME FROM!! hmmmm. Soooo, any more of that rubbish from the starter, and its off to be rebuilt methinks.
Bizarre one, that.
Ed.
P.S. good news was that I was Wedging again within an hour, as if you take the O/S/F wheel off, its actually pretty easy to get the starter out, and defo no taking the manifold off!
Edited by ed_crouch on Sunday 14th January 20:35
Additional.
Does your car have flapper of hotwire EFI??
If its flapper, you shouldnt be getting fuel pump unless the engines cranking, as the air flow meter wont close the fuel pump contacts (pins 6 and 7 from dim distant memory?) unless the flap moves, i.e. air is being drawn, i.e. the engine is cranking.
Also, the clicking will be the injectors firing, which is probably fine if they just go once, but if they keep going, you may have an electronics fault.
BUT, I only know about the flapper type, so any Lucas 14CU(X) gurus please shoot me down if Im talking poo.
Ed.
Does your car have flapper of hotwire EFI??
If its flapper, you shouldnt be getting fuel pump unless the engines cranking, as the air flow meter wont close the fuel pump contacts (pins 6 and 7 from dim distant memory?) unless the flap moves, i.e. air is being drawn, i.e. the engine is cranking.
Also, the clicking will be the injectors firing, which is probably fine if they just go once, but if they keep going, you may have an electronics fault.
BUT, I only know about the flapper type, so any Lucas 14CU(X) gurus please shoot me down if Im talking poo.
Ed.
Had the click once, it would start, then twice and a start and it gradually got worse until no start but plenty of clicking. So, measured the resistance between the started battery lead and the terminal and there were quite a few ohms (can't remember why I started there). So, loosed off the terminal and cable remembering to dis the battery first (and before measuring), cleaned it all up and it started again like a good un. Not sure why but year or so I have to do it again. Not sure if the crimped eye on the cable is made from some outlandish metal that likes to corrode even when bolted tight, maybe different washers are required?
Ed - I think you might have the wrong idea about the cranking.
The fuel pump will run if it thinks the engine is cranking - i.e. there is a connection to the fuel pump relay from the starter solenoid actuator wire.
So whenever the key is in the cranking position the fuel pump should run - even if the starter motor has fallen off.
The fuel pump will also run if the flap is open - this is not the same circuit but goes through the ECU (I think?).
Russ
The fuel pump will run if it thinks the engine is cranking - i.e. there is a connection to the fuel pump relay from the starter solenoid actuator wire.
So whenever the key is in the cranking position the fuel pump should run - even if the starter motor has fallen off.
The fuel pump will also run if the flap is open - this is not the same circuit but goes through the ECU (I think?).
Russ
Without testing the car (its hibernating!), I cant say for definite, but I am almost certain that it is only, and only the fuel pump contacts in the AFM that start the pump on a Lucas 4CU system. Hence, if the starter motor dies, the fuel pump wont go either.
You could check the EFI manual on wedge pages to be sure...
Ed.
You could check the EFI manual on wedge pages to be sure...
Ed.
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