Coolant steam from headlight pod
Discussion
Over the last few days when the coolant gets just about to the point the fans kick in, I get some steam coming out of the front nearside headlight pod. It smells like coolant, so I presume it is.
As soon as the fans kick in it stops.
I regulary check the coolant levels, they go down very slowly, probably no more than normal.
Could this be caused by overfilling the coolant or is it likely to be a leak somewhere. Any ideas?
As soon as the fans kick in it stops.
I regulary check the coolant levels, they go down very slowly, probably no more than normal.
Could this be caused by overfilling the coolant or is it likely to be a leak somewhere. Any ideas?
Easy one! That will be the fan otter switch "gasket" leaking. At the top of the rad on the near side, there is a hole of around 12mm where the otter switch is located. It fits into a rubber gromit, and then a metal clip goes over the whole thing to secure it to the rad. I'm not sure what the gromit if off though. I got a new one just by taking the old one to Partco for a match.
Dan.
Dan.
I concur, had the very same symptom meself when I put the new rad in. "Bit"
awkward to get to without lifting the front of the bonnet up for access.
you might be quicker taking the rad out to do it.
Good luck.
Tip; Get a couple of new expansion tank and swan neck caps before you start
especially the swan neck cap....doesn't like being disturbed.
Wouldn't stop seeping after.
awkward to get to without lifting the front of the bonnet up for access.
you might be quicker taking the rad out to do it.
Good luck.
Tip; Get a couple of new expansion tank and swan neck caps before you start
especially the swan neck cap....doesn't like being disturbed.
Edited by pwd95 on Monday 15th January 00:12
Edited by pwd95 on Monday 15th January 00:13
Yeah, I must admit, access is a bit restricted. I found there was just enough room to extract the faulty bit by popping up the headlights, and removing the light beam unit. A couple of self tapping screws hold the round plastic trim on around the light, and the light itself is another 3 self tappers. The whole lot should just come out then, giving you access to the top of the rad. If you disconnect the battery once the pods are up, it will save it draining. Make sure you have your stereo code though...
I think access does depend on the car you know. I've read about people removing their rad in 10 minutes, and refitting in a similar amount of time. It took me all day to replace mine once, and had to remove the spoiler etc. Probably depends on the model to be honest.
I think access does depend on the car you know. I've read about people removing their rad in 10 minutes, and refitting in a similar amount of time. It took me all day to replace mine once, and had to remove the spoiler etc. Probably depends on the model to be honest.
I searched for a grommet in parts suppliers around Reading and could not get one, the rad is supposed to be a Range Rover one but the dealer had never seen a grommet like it. I had the rad rebuilt and Serck could not supply one.
I eventually went to Hills rubber company and had one made up for me, cost a bit under 15 quid.
Then I noticed that one of the advertisers (cannot remember which one) on PH has them for under a fiver - DOH!
Russ
I eventually went to Hills rubber company and had one made up for me, cost a bit under 15 quid.
Then I noticed that one of the advertisers (cannot remember which one) on PH has them for under a fiver - DOH!
Russ
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