TEMPERATURE SENDER
Discussion
Standing in front of car its located at the bottom right, you will need to remove the beauty panel if 4.5, just follow the capillery (sp) tube its the one with the spiral wire on the outside, and should be cable tied to the chassis in various places. I think you'll find that you need a new temp. gauge and sender as they come as one complete unit.
Sorry, I meant the one that tells the ECU what the temp is, in order that the mixture going into the engine can compensate when starting from cold. I might be talking boll*x, in which case how does the engine management system control the engine so that it idles the same when cold and boiling hot?
Any info appreciated.
Cheers
MB
Any info appreciated.
Cheers
MB
If the ECU detects the sensor is faulty (ie the voltage its measuring is outside the allowable min and max) then it substitutes a value of 95 degrees C
So if the fans are on all the time then the sensor is faulty.
However, it may just be corroded connections. I had very erratic running and fans not coming on. The logging via the software showed the temp spiking and dipping like a lambda sensor
The connector is vertical and close to the road so it collects water and crud and the connection pins. If its really bad a new sensor and a new plug and connectors will be needed but a quick squirt with WD40 or the like can work wonders.
best way to check it is to have a look at the fault logs and the logging. If it has been out of range a fault will be recorded. Run the engine and log the readings. Any spikes in the trace suggest duff sensor or corroded connections.
Its located on the water pipes under the panel betwixt rads and engine on the near side fairly close to where the capilliary goes in.
So if the fans are on all the time then the sensor is faulty.
However, it may just be corroded connections. I had very erratic running and fans not coming on. The logging via the software showed the temp spiking and dipping like a lambda sensor
The connector is vertical and close to the road so it collects water and crud and the connection pins. If its really bad a new sensor and a new plug and connectors will be needed but a quick squirt with WD40 or the like can work wonders.
best way to check it is to have a look at the fault logs and the logging. If it has been out of range a fault will be recorded. Run the engine and log the readings. Any spikes in the trace suggest duff sensor or corroded connections.
Its located on the water pipes under the panel betwixt rads and engine on the near side fairly close to where the capilliary goes in.
Edited by mikesr on Tuesday 16th January 09:50
You get the mil light if the sensor has an out of range voltage. If its corroded connctors and the varying resistance thereof affecting the voltage then it won't necessarily go out of range and show a fault with the MIL light.
When my water temp sensor was playing up there were no faults and no MIL light. It was the real time logging that showed it had a very spiky output.
When my water temp sensor was playing up there were no faults and no MIL light. It was the real time logging that showed it had a very spiky output.
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