Oil pan for Dart aluminum block

[k wright]

I put the motor and transaxle in and found out that: 1) the 8" deep Canton pan hangs about 1" below the chassis, 2) in order to get the motor to bolt up I have to remove the shift linkage. Gail at AS reports that this is the depth pan he fits to all Ultima engines, and that to go to a shallower pan would mean the use of a standard oil pump. In addition I have a G50/52 transaxle and have the factory motor mount plates installed (I have removed these plates to make sure that they are not lowering the motor, they don't, they simply move it forward one inch). The transaxle is very close to the upper chassis crossmember in the rear and as a result I can't raise the engine any higher.

This is a headache that I had hoped to avoid by paying the premium price at AS. This motor is listed on the Ultima sales page and that is why I bought it, it fits in an Ultima GTR...right?

Anyone using a Dart block in their car (I've got a GTR)?

ken

[ultimaandy]

I've read you post twice and need to ask a silly question.... have you managed to fit the engine without it touching the chassis anywhere?

Only reason I ask is that I think all sumps in an Ultima hang down about an inch below the chasis...your not alone in thinking this strange. However my lowered floor pan is lower (just) so its not the lowest part of the car.

I essence I don't think you have a problem unless you can't bolt it up. If your worried about the 'underhang' fit a sump guard or better still a dry sump!

[k wright]

That's the info that I wanted, if anyone else had the sump below the level of the chassis. The remaining problem now is notching the forward portion of the pan on the left side so that is clears the center mount shift linkage. I've got another car with dry sump and don't like that option for a street car that will see lots of miles.

Thanks for your reply,

ken

[GTRCLIVE]

I know it's not want you want to hear, but if you went dry sump, you can get the Sump which is only about 5" deep. It will allow you to drop the motor even more if you want. As far as the Dart block goes the pan rails are the same height as standard, so should be able to fit a 7" Sump. Oil pumps are possibly the most reliable and cheapest part of a Chevy V8, as long as you fit a High Volume one with a New (Steel Collard) H/D Drive shaft. What does Gail mean by a Standard Oil Pump ?? I have a Melling Oil Pump H/V with Moroso 5 Door trap Sump. Still only 7” Deep, but with 8 Litres Capacity.

[k wright]

Looks like its dry sump time. All the pans that I can find for a dart block have a "box" design and smack the linkage for my center shift car. I'll be using a Milodon dry sump pan. Cool!!...more money and hoses stuck in the engine bay.

ken

[kevinday]

Ken, can I but in here and ask why you don't like the idea of dry sump for a high mileage street car? I thought dry sump was superior and only not used on street cars because of cost?

[srreck]

If you fit a dry sump system you are liberating the engine of an important internal charge. External oil pumps (for dry or wet sump systems) runs smoother and you will get two advantages: some extra HP and no oil problems ¡¡ never !!. Don´t worry about many miles. A well fitted dry sump system will work perfect forever. Ask to any Le Mans team !!
The only minor problem is to find the appropiate road racing dry sump pan. I started with a MOROSO unit. It needs only to redirect the pickups to front and rear and it is working OK.

Good luck

[USCANAM]

srreck said: External oil pumps (for dry or wet sump systems) runs smoother and you will get two advantages: some extra HP and no oil problems ¡¡ never !!.

Javier
I would respectfully tend to disagree with this statement. IMHO, you are adding 3 additional possible sources of failure:
1. possible belt or pulley failure
2. possible pump seal failure
3. possible oil hose failure
These are problems you don't have with a wet sump.
My original idea was to install a dry sump on the CanAm at an added cost of about $3000, but went to a winged oil pan instead mainly for the above reasons.
BTW, 2 of my current cars have dry sumps. One is my F2000 which is red lined at 7200, and not matter what we do, always leaks oil.
Regards
Jack

[ultimaandy]

When I first got my car on the road I had just the winged baffled sump, on more than one occasion the car created enough G's to drop the oil pressure to very worrying levels (STACK has tell tales).

This was only whilst I was running the car in as at 500miles I added an Accusump and have never had a problem since. However the car is capable of out performing even this set-up in the right hands (in therory).

If you compare the Wet (same as mine) and dry sump options there SHOULD only be around £500 ($800) difference in cost.