GTR fuel tanks-Advice please
GTR fuel tanks-Advice please
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San Diego GTR

Original Poster:

469 posts

236 months

Monday 22nd January 2007
quotequote all
I am going with an LS7 and want to have the fuel tanks equalize themselves. So I'm planning on cutting a hole in the tanks to take out the foam, so that I can have a new -12AN fitting welded in on each tank. This will allow filling from either tank. I plan on having a in-tank fuel pump to supply the FI motor and returning to the same tank. I'll use a Fuelsafe plate to cover the holes that I cut to get out the foam.

The challenge. The fittings on the tanks are 2.5" above the bottom of the tank. So that will prevent quite a bit of fuel in the secondary tank from ever being used.

Thats the plan. I'd appreciate your input-pro or con.

Thanks,
Paul

crafty

2,291 posts

266 months

Monday 22nd January 2007
quotequote all
You should be able to put a stick of something (like an alloy tube) through the filler and through the tank sender hole and push the foam out of the way.... I was told by the factory that this is how they weld the tanks up with the foam inside.

tblackey

88 posts

255 months

Monday 22nd January 2007
quotequote all
I did mine that way, it wasn't a problem. I drilled the hole, added the bung to the outside and tig welded it. Came out fine. No need to tear apart the tank. Make sure to get all the shavings out. I would suggest larger than an AN 12 though. Otherwise it takes a while to fill...

Bill

crafty

2,291 posts

266 months

Monday 22nd January 2007
quotequote all
I had my tanks made with -12AN fittings all round.

There's two on the bottom of each tank, with -12 lines joining the tanks together. One of the lines has a tee in it... there's a reducer down to -8, then a filter and a pump, then a reducer to -6 and up to the regulator in -6 line.

Return is -6 down to a tee fitting, then back to the top of each tank.... should have had -6 fittings for return but wasnt thinking so I have a -12 to -6 reducer at the top of each tank.

GTWayne

4,595 posts

246 months

Monday 22nd January 2007
quotequote all
tblackey said:
I did mine that way, it wasn't a problem. I drilled the hole, added the bung to the outside and tig welded it. Came out fine. No need to tear apart the tank. Make sure to get all the shavings out. I would suggest larger than an AN 12 though. Otherwise it takes a while to fill...

Bill


I have -12 link pipe between tanks and Bill is right, it does take a little more time to fill, but this is no bad thing because should you inadvertently overfill due to pumping at full speed, the fumes will be almost unbearable because you are in such close proximity.

S30

2 posts

236 months

Tuesday 23rd January 2007
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I'm not familair with GTR fuel tanks so I'm sorry if I'm way off asking this. Are you going to install a sump or baffle setup in the tank when it's open or do they already come that way? I know standard unbaffled/sumped carbed fuel tanks are horrible when under half full and used with efi. I've installed in tank pumps and factory baffles to deal with it when using them though.

GTWayne

4,595 posts

246 months

Tuesday 23rd January 2007
quotequote all
Hello and welcome Clifton,
The tanks are foam filled and do not suffer from surge as a result.

Pilot Pete

670 posts

247 months

Tuesday 23rd January 2007
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If you haven't brought your fuel kit yet, I maybe able to help.
I some spare bits
2 x filler hoses
2 x VDO sender units
2 x Fuel caps and funnels
All offical Ultima bits
I've got a few 2nd hand -12 connectors too if your intrested.

San Diego GTR

Original Poster:

469 posts

236 months

Tuesday 23rd January 2007
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Thanks Pete, but I've got all the parts I'll need in my kit.

Pilot Pete

670 posts

247 months

Tuesday 23rd January 2007
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Np it might have been easier to make your own. I've got a drawing somewhere...

k wright

1,039 posts

288 months

Thursday 25th January 2007
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I welded a -12 fitting about 3/4 up the inside of both tanks and used the top -06 fitting as an air cross over tube. Didn't touch the foam.

My thoughts were that the car should be able to be fueled from one side also, but I didn't want the fuel to slosh back and forth in the twisties at low fuel levels. It is likely that this is overkill as the foam in the tanks would limit the slosh.

This works well, however if I could do it over I would use a -16 crossover. To fuel the car I park with the side nearest the fuel station pump down hill, take off both caps and fuel it up. It takes some time for the fuel to cross over but it beats moving the car to fuel both tanks. When you do the welding make sure that you use some heat sink material to prevent the tanks from warping.

Also, remember to sand and prime the tanks before you paint them.

San Diego GTR

Original Poster:

469 posts

236 months

Thursday 25th January 2007
quotequote all
So Kevin, let me understand you. When you welded in the -12's, did you try to move the foam away from the hot area? In my experience, the foam is pretty tough stuff and is hard to move. But that was down at the bottom of the tank. If I were to do it up higher that might be easier.
Send me an email with pics if you can at quailpark at mac dot com.
Thanks,
Paul

mkoch1

486 posts

288 months

Thursday 25th January 2007
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I had a local shop weld 10an fitting where the factory ones used to be. They said they just put a large screw driver down in the take to move the foam away. The foam in my tank was very soft.



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